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07-12-2010, 07:54 PM
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.38 S&W Safety Hammerless DOB?
I have two 5th generation S&W New Departure Safety Hammerless revolvers. Both revolvers are .38 S&W caliber. I know that the 5th generation was produced from approximately 1907 to 1940, but I would like to know the actual year of manufacture. The serial numbers are 244XXX and 249XXX. I will post pictures when the sun returns. It has been cloudy all day.
Any information would be appreciated.
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07-12-2010, 09:19 PM
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I have #2441014 which shipped October 1916
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Peter #2091
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07-12-2010, 10:46 PM
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Thanks for your help.
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07-13-2010, 11:44 AM
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sorry, extra digit - should read #241014
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Peter #2091
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07-15-2010, 12:30 AM
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243436 shipped in 5/1917, & #246914 shipped on 8/1922
Mark
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Mark Connot
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07-26-2010, 09:35 PM
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Hi, new to forum. I received a 38 Special hammerless from a dear friend. Serial number is 1753xx. It is in great shape but I have been hesitant to fire it. Cute little thing.
Thanks in advance for any info or point me in right direction to find it.
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07-27-2010, 11:10 AM
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Hello navycporetired,
Welcome to the forum. You should always have a firearm that you are not sure of checked by a reliable gunsmith before using it. If it is in good shape it is certainly safe to fire using todays factory ammunition. Factory 38 S&W loads are loaded down to make sure that if used in the old top break frames they are safe. Having said that, I would be reluctant to fire a first model 38 S&W Safety Hammerless because of it's weaker latch design. Your gun by the way is a fourth model and it probably shipped in 1904. The only way to tell for sure when it shipped is to spend the $50 for a factory letter. It doesn't seem worth it to me, but other people feel differantly The nearest 38 Safety in my data base is 177619 and it shipped 6/1904. The serial numbers are all over the calendar during this period. By the way if you do letter it I would appreciate it if you listed the number here, or contacted me by email with the information. I have been assembling a data base of Safety Hammerless shipping dates for some time and always welcome new info.
regards,
Mark
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Mark Connot
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07-28-2010, 10:51 PM
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Mark,
Thanks for the info. I think I will letter it just for kicks. Will give me more to go on for insurance purposes. Will be glad to send you the info once I have it.
Chris
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07-28-2010, 11:31 PM
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US Veteran SWCA Founding Member Absent Comrade
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navycporetired, Mark forgot to mention that your gun is not caliber .38 Special, but .38 S&W. They are two different cartridges. The .38 Special will not fit in your gun, it's too long. .38 S&W cartridge is the only round that will fit and it should be safe to fire, if the gun is in good mechanical condition. Many of us shoot these little gun regularily for fun and in Cowboy matches. Ed. #15
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07-29-2010, 10:06 PM
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.38 S & W Safety Hammerless Timing
One of the above 38 S & W Safety Hammerless revolvers, I bought as a bag of parts. On reassembly I found that the timing is off.
Can anyone tell me how to time a .38 S & W Safety Hammerless revolver? Since the hammer is case hardened, welding the hammer would destroy the case hardening. It appears that the sear needs to be lengthened to move the hammer off the firing pin and to cause the cylinder release to operate.
Where do I start to get the timing correct? What is the maximum that the firing pin should extend past the recoil shield with the trigger in the non firing position?
Any help with my project would be appreciated. I will post photos soon.
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07-30-2010, 11:40 AM
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This is akin to brain surgery over-the-phone.. I can offer some limited information. The hammer should rebound off the firing pin and the pin should retract under spring tension into the bushing in the recoil shield. Often the firing pin spring is broken and the pin projects far enough through the recoil shield to jamb-up the rotation of the cylinder. This is a common problem encountered with the Safety Hammerless models. Break open the revolver and tap the firing pin to see if it is stuck to the bushing. I suspect that repeated dry-firing has caused the pin to protrude and has broken the spring. Assuming that the pin retracts; try the timing again. If the cylinder stop still does not release then I would check for a broken or missing "split-spring". The split-spring story is a chapter in itself. Mike #283
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07-30-2010, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opoefc
navycporetired, Mark forgot to mention that your gun is not caliber .38 Special, but .38 S&W. They are two different cartridges. The .38 Special will not fit in your gun, it's too long. .38 S&W cartridge is the only round that will fit and it should be safe to fire, if the gun is in good mechanical condition. Many of us shoot these little gun regularily for fun and in Cowboy matches. Ed. #15
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Hi Ed ,a question on the ammo does the .38 wadcutter fit in the .38S&W ,and can that be fired or is that load still too hot ?
R
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07-30-2010, 01:37 PM
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.38 special wadcutter ammo should not fit the chamber(s) of a .38 S&W revolver.
If you somehow get it to chamber, DO NOT fire it. You are surely asking for trouble if you do.
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07-30-2010, 03:31 PM
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Thanks singleshot, and speaking for myself . I always use ammo matching the caliber on the gun,but some people are just unaware of the danger when wrong ammo is used
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03-02-2014, 01:53 AM
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4th Model DOB
I realize this is an older thread, but thought I'd chime in.
I received a factory letter today. My revolver came to me from my mom who supposedly got it from my great aunt who was married to a police officer. I lettered it, hoping it was a direct sale, but alas, it was not.
Instead, my revolver, #174535 (Nickel plated, pearl handles), was shipped on Jan 28, 1904 to C.M. McClung & Co. in Knoxville, TN.
I Googled that name, and was surprised to find an abundance of information. Apparently that was a major hardware & sporting goods company, a regional competitor for Sears & Roebuck.
http://media.metropulse.com/media/im...ver_6_t607.JPG
Didn't find all the information I had hoped for, but to me it was worthwhile. I'm keeping this revolver, and now my kids will know a bit about it.
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