I have a couple of top breaks, S&W and H&R, both in .38 S&W. Both are a little sloppy at the rear frame latch lockup, i.e., play is present, allowing the barrel to wiggle a little around its pivot. One of the previous postings here mentioned peening the vertical rectangular posts on the frame to tighten it up. If this is the way to go, can someone out there provide details about exactly how to proceed? Neither of these revolvers is worth enough to warrant sending them off to a gunsmith that can do this sort of thing, but they are both shootable and I am willing to try my hand at it if I can get instructions. I'm not a gunsmith but I've fixed many, many guns over the years, but not top break latches.

It is much easier to slightly tap the Ears of the latch in to tighten the action. Go slow, it doesn't take much.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

To peen the latch pillars at the top of the frame, I open the top break and strike downward at the latch point at the rear where the latch closes over. I don't want to really beat it, but just enough to move a little of the metal to the rear. Any movement will tighten it some and if it binds on the sides I true it up lightly with a file. It may take more than one 'treatment' for a really loose one.

I would be very careful wit the latch itself. It is tempered hard and can be quite brittle.

Try the tightening thing on your worst piece to get some experience. If you hit too hard it may be possible to clean it up with a file.

Two approaches advised. For the first, I take it that the two vertical pillars are to be squeezed together slightly. What is the best way to do this - tapping with a hammer or maybe squeezing in a vise or something similar? For the second approach, would peening best be done with a hammer alone or using a hammer and a flat-ended punch? I take it that both pillars should be peened at the top rear if this method is used.

To peen the pillars, I use a hammer but if you think you will have better control use the flat-end punch. Peen both as equally as possible.

This is not a big deal. I just open the gun, hold it in one hand and strike with the other till I see a bit of movement, try it and maybe do it again till I get what I want. Most of the old cheaper gun frames are pretty soft so it doesn't take much of a blow to get results.

I took a fairly light hammer and tapped on the rear of the pillars using not a lot of force while holding the revolvers in my hand. It seemed to work, and both are now a lot tighter. I didn't have to do any filing. Thanks for the information.

I don't shoot the S&W (4th Model .38 DA, pre-1899) much, as it's not that comfortable to hold or shoot, and also the rear of the trigger guard pops out of the frame under recoil regularly. Plus, the condition is excellent, about 95%, and I don't want to mess it up. The H&R (Model 925 Defender top-break, 4" in .38 S&W) is much newer (ca. 1964), but is in near-mint condition, and I really enjoy shooting it as much as or more than any other revolver I own. Shoots a very good group to boot, but I had to squirt a little super glue into the rear sight to keep the blade in place after i got it sighted in.