Picked up a S&W 3rd model .32 (from what i can find online) at a friends auction for $20. All matching SNs (to include the grips! 5 digit SN 24xxx). My grandpa had an old S&W .32 top break (no idea which model) back in England when i was a kid and i wanted one to have myself. Hopefully I'll be able to get one of each model over time.

I got it all working again (with few small hiccups, like trying to find the spring that goes inside the trigger guard, may have to make one so it'll reset). Anyway, any ideas on how to polish up the outside and the bore? I obviously don't want to ruin what finish is left on it, but i'd like it to look nice for the display. The bore is in rough shape, and id like to have that cleaned up a bit too. Any tips?

S&W 3rd Model Top-break
.32 S&W
3.5" barrel w/ fixed sight
SN: 24xxx
MFG ≈1882

More pics to come, but here's this:

Welcome to the Forum. Your 32 Double Action, 3rd Model was probably shipped in the early 1880s, so is certainly an antique. It will handle currently manufactured 32 S&W ammo just fine once you get in back in working order. There are many springs that can be made to replace those broken ones, but you will have a hard time finding replacements anywhere.

I would take some 0000 steel wool soaked with polishing compound and go over the finish lightly until you get the appearance you desire. Leave the trigger and hammer as they are, since they would have been case hardened colored as new. If the finish was nickel, the trigger guard should be blued, along with the latch, extrator star, and the extractor cam.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Thanks for the welcome! Freqlord actually got me on here, and now I've lost a whole day looking around the forum. haha

I don't believe it was nickel, but who knows, when i got it it was, well, brown. I'll give the steel wool and polishing compound a try.

I've got an REALLY old box of Winchester .32S&W primed shells (≈1903 from what I've found online, but i advent found an identical one, i'll post a pic of it too), but it's unopened, so i might try and find some more and load them with some black powder (I've heard 7grains is what they were originally loaded with? IF I ever fire it, I'll be starting with probably 5 and loading up from there).

I finally got the pics to upload!

Close up of the left side of the cylinder




Left side




Primed shell box (sealed) top (Bottom has 892 stamped in ink, and 103 embossed, anyone got any info on these?)

That box originally contained primed empty cases for reloading, not loaded ammunition. If sealed, it still does. It would date from the mid-late 1940s.

If I had that revolver, I'd probably just polish it as much as possible with very fine grit sandpaper until it's fairly smooth and bright, then go over it with cold bluing. The problem with many of the old BP-era revolvers is that the bores are frequently badly pitted, due to years of use with corrosive-primed ammunition and inadequate cleaning after use. If that's the case, there's not much you can do about that. .32 S&W ammo is still available, but difficult to find.

Wasn't Winchester using colored boxes in the 1940s? The few that I've seen were all brightly colored

The box label says Olin Industries, which did not exist until 1944. Western Cartridge, owned by Olin, bought the Winchester Company in 1931. Olin merged the two in 1935, forming Winchester-Western. In 1944, the various Olin companies were organized under a new corporate parent, Olin Industries, Inc. Olin Industries and Mathieson Chemical merged in 1954 to form the Olin Mathieson Chemical Corporation.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Ah okay cool. Thanks glowe! Not sure why i never looked up Olin before. I wonder why they reverted back to the older labels. Maybe it was just for the reloading components.

Either way, now I'm addicted to old S&W revolvers! I guess that's a good thing. My hobbies keep getting more and more expensive though.

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Go Army! Beat Navy!

If the finish is not nickel, it has had all the bluing removed at some point. The pictures show bare metal, with some shallow pitting marks. If that is the case, I agree with DeWalt that taking some 200 sandpaper to smooth the surface, then work down to 400 to prepare it for bluing. Be careful to leave any stampings as original as possible.

You can have it caustic blued at a local gunsmith, or use a cold blue. Brownell's Oxpho Blue works quite well. If blued, I would still leave the hammer and trigger as they are, since they were never blued. Good luck with your project.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Glowe, I'm trying to see your avatar/display box in the picture, could you post it bigger? It looks like something similar to what I was thinking of doing.
Or if anyone else has ever mounted an old Smith with ammo/display plaque. I'm considering getting a history letter get info on it, and don't want to mount the original in the case. Figured a plaque would look good. ?

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Go Army! Beat Navy!

That is actually a Gutta Percha period case, but an old thread has a display by H Richard that you might consider for your revolver.

Short Barreled Model 1 1/2

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I agree to refinish it. I also use Brownells Oxpho blue. It works good if you follow the directions and Really clean and degrease. I use 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Just before you reblue heat the part with a heat gun or blow dryer. Don't get it too hot but just warm enough to be able to hold onto. Make sure you use rubber gloves. Use the bluing on the entire gun. Take the gun entirely apart. You don't want to use the bluing on the springs.
You can find some parts for it at Numrich. Some springs are hard to find.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Yeah, the only parts I still need, are the parts that Numrich is sold out of, and the parts that aren't on eBay. Barrel catch cam & spring, and the trigger spring.

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Go Army! Beat Navy!

Check with jackfirstgun.com for replacement parts.

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Guy
SWHF #474 SWCA LM#2629