Have a question for you: Recently purchased a 3rd Model single shot in decent condition, great bore. The issue is that I am getting grossly unreliable ignition with near 100% FTF. It is denting the rims what seems to be perfectly, but no, "bang". Even if I repeatedly drop the hammer - to the point where there is a hole in the rim, no "bang". I've tried multiple brands including both powderless (Colibri) and conventional rounds. Don't want to use anything too hot, so have not tried an LR - just multiple lots of Colibri and .22 shorts (CBs) the exact same ammo functions 100% reliably in everything else I've tried. Any guesses as to what is causing the FsTF?

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

I have a question. In view of the fact you can make a hole in the rim, it strikes me as a pretty dumb question; but I'm going to ask anyway----and then figure out just exactly why I asked it later.

Does this pistol appear to have a recessed chamber? If it does, it shouldn't-----------and we'll go from there.

As an aside, I don't know of anything "too hot".

Ralph Tremaine

Ralph,
Of course, no question is a dumb question. It doesn't appear to have a recessed chamber, but I experience far fewer FsTF if I am careful to not push the cartridge in fully. I am going to make a small "gasket" tomorrow to see what that does. The issue is strange in that the rim seems to be being struck well.

Regarding "hot" - I didn't know if these were quite designed to handle modern "stinger" rounds.

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

First, I don't know anything about modern stinger rounds, so---------------------------------------??????????????????????????????????????????????

Next question: Do you have an "Olympic Chamber"? Question after that: You should have more FTF (or at least more FTF on first strike) if the round is not completely seated----rather than fewer---so what am I missing?

RT

I assume you have checked the strain screw? Some shooters will shorten the screw or back it out, so the cocking is easy trigger pull is lighter. I have found the hard way that when it comes to 22 LR, there is denting and there is firing and the two are sometimes not easily distinguishable.

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Does it look like there is a dent under the area where the firing pin would strike the primer? This is caused by dry firing.

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Tom
NRA Pistol Inst

Hu????

I know she's over 100 years old, but I've never been more frustrated with an acquisition. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to the fails. Loaded one standard .22 LR, fired right off. Loaded exact same ammo, the exact same way....FTF. Never did fire after 4-5 subsequent attempts regardless of single or double action.

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

Hmm, fearing that I'll bugger up the strain screw, I've approached this recommendation with some trepidation. At this point, I can't get it to budge, but again, don't want to bugger it up.

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

I tend to go with the not enough dent theory as well.
Can you post a pic of a dented round?

Please confirm there is no movement of the barrel/frame hinge assembly (other than rotational). Confirm also there is no movement of the latch assembly (other than rotational). Confirm also there is no or barely perceptible movement between the barrel and frame assemblies with the gun closed. Confirm also the clearance between the firing pin nose and the breech is .009"-.010"-----with the firing pin in its foremost position (Note the rebounding hammer.)

Ralph Tremaine

RCT wins a prize!

There is just enough - all but imperceptible - up and down movement of the barrel assembly when latched. When I put a bit of upward pressure on the barrel (resting it against my gloved hand for example) I get 100% ignition each and every time. When firing without the pressure, the issue presents 100% of the time.

Next question: what can I do to remediate this?

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"You're messin' up my Zen"

RCT wins half a prize----it ain't fixed yet!

When I have encountered this sort of looseness (only after I've reassembled them after a bath) the looseness has been found to be attributable to a "loose" hinge fastener and/or a "loose" latch fastener. Note "loose" means tight----but not tight enough. When I tighten them a bit more, the slop goes away. This cause/effect is found on used as well as essentially brand new guns.

Step One: Tighten the applicable screws----latch first----and check for slop. Note this is to be done with PROPER screwdrivers----which is to say they are hollow ground, and fit the screw EXACTLY (slot width and screw width)-----which is (also) to say they did not come from Sears or any hardware stores. Mine come from Brownells. ALL my stuff comes from Brownells. There may well be other sources. I have NEVER had the need to find out------------------and

Bottom Line: If you don't KNOW what you're doing with tools in your hand, get some help from someone who does.

Next Bottom Line: You may very well solve your problem without the fancy tools and without the requisite knowledge/experience. The price you will likely pay will be screw heads that look like they have been attacked by a very angry beaver. It's worth noting you also cannot get these screws at Sears or any hardware store. That's because store-bought screws weren't good enough for gun makers---so they made their own----and they ain't got any left!

And if tightening these screws doesn't solve the problem, disassemble and clean the assemblies. Note that the latch assembly includes a barrel catch cam and spring which will be hiding from you---in a deep, dark hole ahead of the latch. Note also it may very well may not be the least bit inclined to come out----until after a lengthy soak ( 24-48-36 hours, completely submerged) in solvent, followed by a seemingly fruitless series of banging the butt end of the barrel against something hard which WILL NOT booger the butt end of the barrel----accompanied by every cuss word you know---and some you had to look up. This soaking and beating follows a thorough cleaning of the part of the deep, dark hole you can see/reach with dental picks---or similar---and some preliminary banging of the butt end of the barrel----which sometimes works----but not often.

And again, if you don't know what you're doing, get some GOOD help!


Ralph Tremaine

AND before you make the screw(s) tight, make them (and the threads they go into) squeaky clean and lubricate them with good stuff (CorrosionX)----just in case you may want to get them out at some point in the future. Otherwise, your friendly gunsmith will have to help----at the rate of of about $20-$25 per screw. What's worse is your friendly gunsmith will laugh at you.

AND--before you go anywhere near these screws, make sure the screw slots are squeaky clean---dental picks----tooth picks. The best screwdrivers in the entire universe are worthless if you can't get them into the slot---ALL the way into the slot!!!

And FINALLY (really), if you are not inclined to buy the complete set of "Magna Bit" screwdrivers (which cost A BUNCH), let me know. I'll tell you which bits you need---and you'll be good to go with two bits and one handle. And do yourself a favor----DO NOT get a magnetic handle. Magnetic handles are very handy----except when they're not----which is most of the time. Of course, when you desperately NEED a magnetic handle, then you get to buy one of those---unless you get a "Magnetizer/Demagnetizer" which are great----if/when you can remember how to use them---or if/when you can find the instructions----which is never!!

PM and email in bound.

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"You're messin' up my Zen"