38 Winchester Double Action Project Gun

Boulder350 · #1 01-23-2023, 04:29 PM

A number of years ago I purchased a 38 Winchester barrel only with serial number 12. With that serial number it could have been for the Single Action or the Double Action. It came with no other parts.

I recently purchased this 38 Winchester DA with a 2 digit serial number that is not 12. All numbers match on the gun. I want to get all the parts for the loose barrel so its easy swap to barrels on the frame. Does anyone know where I can get the latch parts for one of these? I would also be interested in the pivot screw parts too but that's easy to use with both barrels. I have a rear target sight that I could put on the original barrel but would prefer to keep the original latch/sight with the original barrel.

Tried putting the cylinder on the short barrel but it does not screw all the way down. I would need to thin down the entire diameter of the step on the end of the cylinder or remove some material from the bottom of the forcing cone in a curve. What do you think the old timers did when fitting a cylinder to a barrel?

I also picked up a pair of original hard rubber grips for the gun but the alignment holes that mate with the pins are way off. I would need to Dremel the holes wider and then fill them in with epoxy to get them to line up. If you have a pair of grips or suggestions on how to modify the grips it would be appreciated

iby · #2 01-23-2023, 10:04 PM

The grips can be fitted as you suggest.
Fill the holes, Remove the locator pin and re drill
If you can find another pair you may need to do the same thing.

Boulder350 · #3 02-06-2023, 02:30 PM

The new barrel is fitted to the gun. It took longer than expected. A piece of the quill was broke off before I purchased the gun. The cylinder would fit the new short barrel, couldn't figure out why. Then the cylinder would not fit back on the old barrel. Ended up taking the cylinder apart removing the extractor and spring only to find out the end of the quill that broke off was still in the cylinder. Once that was removed , put it back together and the cylinder now fits both barrels.

Nervous about trying to replace the quill and having it break off in the barrel. Does anyone have recommendations on how to remove the quill? Maybe I just need to let it be since it still functions.

Next step is fitting the grips. Found out that there are 2 different locations they used for the 44 DA.

Learning a lot about these old guns.

BMur · #4 02-06-2023, 03:08 PM

Mark,
Wonderful and rare project piece. That short barrel is off the hook!

The quill or threaded base pin is a better term is extremely delicate and easily damaged. The hollow core does not appreciate torque and actually will break easily.

Proper removal takes a ton of patience. Gradual heat application and a special tool that is inserted into the pin, expands mechanically and is used to gently unthread the delicate piece.

You can see from the photos the part is numbered to the gun and has a machine cut out that must perfectly align with the cam in order for the ejector to function correctly.

This part is literally the most intricate and delicate part on a smith & Wesson antique revolver. So…. Leave it alone is my recommendation unless you like rolling the dice?

If it snaps or bends from torque applied to remove? You are then committed to spending many hours removing the broken part
And finding a replacement that will fit by that I mean thread into place is like winning the lottery. That’s many hours of experience talking. Very frustrating working on the base pin. The only time I will attempt it is if I have a perfect condition replacement part and the antique is worth a lot more once fixed!

Murph

iby · #5 02-06-2023, 03:59 PM

I can see in the pic where the end of the quill is broken
I would follow Bmur's sage advise and leave it be if it works.
Since you would need a new part it may be a moot point

Boulder350 · #6 02-06-2023, 04:26 PM

Thanks guys, was thinking the same, just leave it as is since it is beyond my capability. I did find a replacement quill/threaded base pin as a replacement that came from a 44 DA that was made for a 1 9/16 cylinder. Will hang on to it. Don't think this one will be worth more if its replaced

The half cock notch is worn. Maybe I will tinker with that in my spare time.

H Richard · #7 02-06-2023, 08:09 PM

Out of curiosity, I looked on Amazon for Chicoine's book Antique Firearms Assembly and disassembly, and they have it for $14.95! A great help for all those antique S&W's and more.

wlw-19958 · #8 02-06-2023, 10:38 PM

Hi There,

Quote:

Originally Posted by H Richard

Out of curiosity, I looked on Amazon for Chicoine's book Antique Firearms Assembly and disassembly, and they have it for $14.95! A great help for all those antique S&W's and more.

That is for the Kindle version. If you want a paperback version,
they are asking $99.99.

Cheers,
Webb

Boulder350 · #9 03-23-2024, 05:56 PM

Making progress on this gun. I ended up buying at least 3 sets of grips. The first 2 sets did not fit without modifications but the last ones fit just right. Which ones do you think look better, mottled or the pearls?

Also completed the barrel fit. The short barrel has its own latch and extractor cam. Now all that's left is to build a box/case for it.

ol777gunnerz · #10 03-24-2024, 09:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boulder350

Making progress on this gun. I ended up buying at least 3 sets of grips. The first 2 sets did not fit without modifications but the last ones fit just right. Which ones do you think look better, mottled or the pearls?

Also completed the barrel fit. The short barrel has its own latch and extractor cam. Now all that's left is to build a box/case for it.

No contest, the Mottled grips. Non-factory pearls look nice, but do not add a lot of value, if at all.

glowe · #11 03-24-2024, 10:07 AM

Non-factory pearls do not add any value as far as I am concerned. The 44 DA frame is the same size as the K frame with one exception. The front toe of the frame comes to a sharp corner and was rounded off on the K frame. Black hard rubber stocks can be made to fit by just adding some black epoxy to the toe and sand/polish to fit. Lot cheaper than what you are buying now. Of course, all these revolvers had hand fitted stocks, meaning they were secured on the frame and filed, sanded, and polished to fit. This process took of both steel and stock material off to end with that perfect fit we see on early revolvers. No stocks/frames were exactly the same.

gwpercle · #12 03-24-2024, 10:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Boulder350

Making progress on this gun. I ended up buying at least 3 sets of grips. The first 2 sets did not fit without modifications but the last ones fit just right. Which ones do you think look better, mottled or the pearls?

Also completed the barrel fit. The short barrel has its own latch and extractor cam. Now all that's left is to build a box/case for it.

Awesome Project ... You are doing a Great Job !
I have a soft spot for Top Break revolver and the short barrel / long barrel set up is just as Cool as it gets !

Brown grips for working , hunting and field use !

Pearl for Bar-B-Que's , weddings and Sunday go to meetings !

Gary

ammodave · #13 03-24-2024, 04:18 PM

Where does one find mottled grips for sale?

Boulder350 · #14 03-25-2024, 11:28 AM

I don't know of anyplace that makes mottled grips. These mottled grips were from an old gun that was destroyed and I bought the parts.