44 DA Frontier Repair Help?

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Hey all,
First post so I hope I’m in the right spot. I came into possession of a 44 DA Frontier (99% sure), SN: 5980. It had a ton of issues such as the sear spring was snapped, the locking pawl that locks the cylinder when the trigger is pulled back was completely worn away, and the hammer stud is stripped. I have sourced a replacement sear spring and handmade a new locking pawl and the gun operates in both single and DA…kinda. The hammer stud is striped on both ends so it doesn’t like to hold itself in DA because the plate walks its way off the gun when the hammer falls. On the right side, the threads in the frame are completely pulled out and the threads where the cap nut on the left side threads on are gone.

Here’s where I’m stuck. As far as I see, the only possible way to fix this is to turn a new part on the lathe…but with the threads gone on the frame, I need to get a tap as slightly as possible bigger and cut new threads and turn those threads onto the new part. I also need to make the part itself oversize as the hammer is a very sloppy fit on the existing stud.

Am I correct in that this is the only viable option to make this gun shootable again? Virtually all of the chrome is gone, it’s beat up, the right grip is broken where someone before me tried to pry the grip off the stud…but from what I see it’s a relatively rare firearm, it’s a .44-40 (it has the 1 9/16 cylinder), 6 inch barrel in pretty good condition (slight pitting but still strong rifling), and the cylinder looks good. I’d hate to turn it into a parts piece, but I also don’t want to completely ruin it if retapping the frame is a bad idea.

Any opinions? Thanks y’all!

(If pictures are wanted, I can attach them but I’ll have to figure it out)
 
I believe that your approach to make the hammer stud is the only way. You are in luck (sort of) in that you can use modern standard threads. S&W had their own proprietary threads and taps are not readily available. As an example: today's threads such as the 4-40 and 4-48 don't match the thread form or size that S&W used (4-46). S&W threads are close to Whitworth but not the same.

The only problem that I see is the cap nut. The cap nut is threaded in the proprietary thread so one would need to thread the right end of the hammer stud to match the cap nut. A new one may need to be made to match modern threads if that's easier.
 
Hi There,


Pics are always welcome! Your proposed method of repair is
sound.

As to the affect on value will depend on condition and origin-
ality and to an extent, the quality of the work. Please, don't
be offended; I am speaking in General Terms and not as a
criticism of your abilities. The closer to the original appear-
ance you can maintain in the replacement stud, the better
for value. How much trouble you are willing and able to do
is the limiting factor.

If you can make your own taps, you can make pretty much
any size you need. The closer to the original size and pitch
you can get, the more original the replacement will appear.

If you cannot make taps, you will have to scrutinize the Tap
and Die catalogs on-line to find the closest that will work.
You may have to choose a Metric thread to find one that is
close in size.

I am a little worried about the fact that the Hammer Stud
threads are stripped in the frame. It takes a lot of force to
strip those threads. So I suggest you look carefully and make
sure there aren't any other issues that contributed to any
misalignment of parts that are affecting the hammer function
(although it sounds like you are already addressing this
problem).


Please post some pics!


Cheers!
Webb
 
This limited information is from a "Thread List, Smith & Wesson, 5-20-'09". 'HAM'R STUD NUT'. "Diam .145, pitch 40, tapping size .122". Not a lot to go on but I hope you can make sense of this.
 
I think I may or may not have figured out how to attach an image. If it's there, you can see the condition is not great at all, so I am not terribly worried about devaluing the gun too much. Obviously, I want to keep the value up as much as possible, but I also want to shoot it because it seems like it's so close to being a working firearm!

I, unfortunately, cannot make my own taps so I will have to get pretty creative. Also, no offense taken here! I completely understand the quality of the repair will determine the value of the gun.

As for why the threads ripped out in the frame, I have absolutely no idea! The previous owner gave it to me for free along with some other old pistols from a previous rifle purchase. It was either him or someone else that destroyed the internals of the gun.

I did have an idea for the cap nut from what mmaher mentioned. If the pitch is 40, what if I used an internal tap that has a thread pitch of 40 to cut the external threads on the spindle? It's a method I have seen done before but I have never attempted it. Chuck the part up and put the tap in the toolholder. I could also use a dedicated threading tool I supposed...

Also, what if I used a similar method for the frame? Instead of searching for a very particular tap that is ever so slightly bigger (unless I can just easily find one), I just use a very small tap as a internal threading boring bar and make a custom thread size? That way the hole size is kept to a minimum. I will obviously have to follow tolerances and such but I think it would be doable. I think this would be my best bet unless I can find or make an internal boring bar that small...

Just some ideas!
 

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Things that go bump in the night... How about turning the cap nut into a screw? Cross thread a common size screw into the cap nut and silver solder it in place. Make a new hammer stud without the threads for the cap nut, bore and thread the end with a common tap size.
 
How about turning the cap nut into a screw?

Honestly…pretty darn good idea. Since I’m making the hammer stud oversized anyway to accommodate the wear of the hammer, I could turn a reduced diameter on the end that could be held by the hole in the plate…granted I have enough diameter to mess with. It would be a really solid stud for the hammer. It would have to be a rather small screw to cross thread into to do it this way, but it’s definitely worth a shot as it seems easily reversible. After closer look I think the threads in the nut are slightly torn out anyway, so it very well may be a better option!
 
I see no downside to the screw idea. Nothing is visible from the outside and the revolver will work as intended. Additionally, the plate would hold the stud, and the small screw size would only hold the plate in position. The plate carries the load, not the screw.
 
Have you looked at Jack First Gun Parts? I got a rear sear for my 1st. Mod. DA from them and they have some parts for those pistols which they call the new model 3.
 
Ex, I'm glad you got the rear sear from Jack First. The problem with the OP's revolver is: "On the right side, the threads in the frame are completely pulled out and the threads where the cap nut on the left side threads on are gone." A new hammer stud won't help with the missing threads in the frame. Good idea though, only if the frame would cooperate.
 
S&W 32 revolver, Serial# 332831

Your First Model DA "Frontier" 0.44 is old but really awesome. I heard the story about how this was John Wesley Harding's gun when he was shot. The revolver I inherited from my Grandfather looks just like this but it is a 0.32 caliber 5-shooter, and maybe a bit smaller? I'm trying to find what model it is, and when it was made. serial # 332831
 
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