The S&W 35 cal semi auto pistol

redneckwoman

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What can I expect to pay for a good functioning 35 cal.semi auto. Local shop has one and it keeps calling my name when I visit the shop.
 
I saw one just this past week... it sold yesterday for $475.00.

It was in very nice condition, about 95%, no box.
 
Assuming the gun is a blued gun, and not a low serial number, $500- $600 for a 98% gun as about right. More for nickel or pintos. Less for a "Good functioning one', which I take to mean it's a shooter grade, not a collectable. If it's well worn finishwise, about $350 is tops.
 
I may have overpaid but i bought a 98 % last week for $717 including tax. Ser.# 193X. By the title i thought this was in the right place, 35 auto is in the title.
 
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I thought this was the right forum area also..

The one I saw was a 4 digit, 54xx (can't remember the s/n). I passed on it and a good friend of mine bought it. I think he got a good deal.
 
.35 S&W Auto ammo hasn't been loaded since the beginning of WWII. The pistols themselves were only made and sold from May, 1913 to June, 1922, with a total of 8,350 pistols produced.

Over the years, I have located only one partial box of 35 S&W Auto cartridges and a few strays at gun shows to go with my first year production, three digit serial pistol. The box is marked ".35 SMITH & WESSON AUTOMATIC SMOKELESS" over 50 CENTRAL FIRE CARTRIDGES". "REMINGTON ARMS-UNION METALLIC CARTRIDGE CO." They are jacketed softpoint bullets, which Jinks describes (in his book HISTORY OF SMITH & WESSON", published in 1977) as "half-mantle" bullets, with a very round lead tip. The cupro-nickel jacket is almost the same color as the exposed lead and for years, before really looking, I thought the entire bullet was lead and the ammo books were wrong. The base of the bullet, practically the entire bearing surface of it, is lead "for a good bearing surface and a long barrel life." (Jinks) The primer is copper-colored with "U" embossed on it. The head stamp is "35 S&W" on one side and "REM-UMC" on the other side. There is a solid cannelure turned in the case about 3/16" below the case mouth, probably at the base of the bullets.

The cartridges are rimless and look just about like a .32 ACP cartridge. Dimensionally they are quite close, the .32 being just a smidge larger in most measurements. Dave (I forget his last name) who ran "The Old Western Scrounger" advised those of us who inquired about buying .35 S&W Auto ammo to just shoot .32 ACP in our pistols.

Incidentally, I did, a magazine full of .32 ACP's, and they shot just like the .35 S&W rounds were probably supposed to.

I think that if S&W had initially chambered this pistol for the .32 ACP cartridge in 1913 instead of their own proprietary round, it may have sold well. The guns are very well engineered and work well, considering how early a semiautomatic pistol design they were.

Someday I will take one of the .35 S&W cartridges apart and see what the bullet weighs and looks like inside the case.
 
An early .35 S&W auto round was "self lubricating" in that the bullet had a hollow base filled with gun grease. Small holes were drilled in the bullet's side and when the round was fired, the pressure forced the grease through the holes as the bullet travelled down the barrel, lubricating the lands & grooves, at least in theory. The S&W self lubricating bullet cartridges were exhibited in the 1893 Columbian Exposition factory display. It was patented by Daniel B. Wesson on Nov. 18,1890 and June 13, 1893. Their are examples extant is several calibers. Boxes can be had from antique cartridge dealers for big bucks. .32 S&W auto rounds shoot just fine in .35 autos, but discard any cracked or split cases. If the cases are OK, they can be reloaded as the are now fire formed to Smith & Wesson's .35 caliber ( which is actually .32 cal.) Ed.
 
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I've got some loose .35 rounds... here are a couple of pics...

gunbullet35SWa.jpg


gunbullet35SWb.jpg
 
My friend has a Savage auto loader in 35 S&W and we shot 32 acp just fine threw it, to bad they didn't make it a true 35 cal. as I love anything with a .357 bore, Dale in Canada
 
The original .35 S&W auto round was "self lubricating" in that the bullet had a hollow base filled with gun grease. Small holes were drilled in the bullet's side and when the round was fired, the pressure forced the grease through the holes as the bullet travelled down the barrel, lubricating the lands & grooves, at least in theory. If the ammo. box says ".35 S&W Auto self lubricating" then that's the original stuff. Boxes can be had from antique cartridge dealers for big bucks. .32 S&W auto rounds shoot just fine in .35 autos, but discard any cracked or split cases. If the cases are OK, they can be reloaded as the are now fire formed to .35 caliber. Ed.

That is a very interesting way of providing lubrication. I wonder how this worked out in practice since it would seem the lubricant might contaminate the powder charge. By the way, what is the bullet diameter? Thanks to everybody who has provided information on this unique S&W!
 
you are asking for trouble shooting .32 in a .35 auto. You had better do some research before you damage the gun or yourself.
shame the ammo couldn't have been offered to a member on the forum. I would have loved to have added it to my ammo collection.
 
I just bought an unopened box of .35 S&W Automatic ammo by Remington for a hundred bucks. Thought it was a pretty good deal.
 
Thanks for the picture, post one of the other side please. It appears to have a squeeze safety under the trigger guard, is that right?
 
Even though this is a resurrection of an old thread, I'll provide a little technical information on the .35 S&W cartridge. As earlier noted, it used a partially jacketed bullet with a lead base to engage the rifling. Apparently at that time, someone at S&W was averse to FMJ bullets because of suspected bore wear. The bullet diameter is 0.309", the same as the .32 ACP. The nominal case length and diameter are, respectively 0.670" and 0.346" as compared to 0.680" and 0.336" for the .32 ACP. Ballistically, they are very close. Due to the very minor dimensional differences, if the .32 ACP cartridge chambers, it should be fine to shoot in the .35 S&W.

Should one desire to actually make .35 S&W brass, it can be done by turning the rim of a .32-20 case down, cutting an extractor groove, and cutting and trimming to length. Why anyone would go to tht much trouble when a .32 ACP case would work just as well, I cannot imagine.

I had never heard the story about the .35 S&W bullet having the extruding lubricant, and frankly do not believe that story at all without any further evidence in support of it. To my knowledge, that type of extruding lubricant bullet design was used only to a very limited extent for certain target bullets in a few of the old black powder cartridges, and never in smokeless loads of any kind.

Pipewrench, I may be interested in your .35, PM me if you want to discuss.
 
Even though this is a resurrection of an old thread, I'll provide a little technical information on the .35 S&W cartridge. As earlier noted, it used a partially jacketed bullet with a lead base to engage the rifling. Apparently at that time, someone at S&W was averse to FMJ bullets because of suspected bore wear. The bullet diameter is 0.309", the same as the .32 ACP. The nominal case length and diameter are, respectively 0.670" and 0.346" as compared to 0.680" and 0.336" for the .32 ACP. Ballistically, they are very close. Due to the very minor dimensional differences, if the .32 ACP cartridge chambers, it should be fine to shoot in the .35 S&W.

.

Just picked up a complete box of .35 "AS&WP" ammo, and a pistol to go along with said box, but the bore on the Model 1913 slugs out at 0.322". Whilst the exposed portion of the bullet measures the published 0.309"-0.310", I can't help but think that, unless the case walls of the cartridge are unusually thick, the unjacketed portion of the bullet hidden in the case should measure somewhere around 0.319"+, given that the OD of the cases are indeed about 0.010" larger than the .32 ACP.

If I had a spare cartridge or two I'd cut them open and measure the actual hidden diameter. But that's not going to happen with any in the box on hand!

2014-01-04jmoorestuff052_zpsad9eca65.jpg


2014-01-04jmoorestuff050_zps6a5d1642.jpg
 
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