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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 03-09-2010, 08:30 PM
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Default Model 1905-4th Change, .32 WCF

Purchased a Model 1905-4th Change, .32 WCF, blue, with a 4 inch barrel. SN 90345. Stocks are not correct and are probably reproduction. Gun appears to have original finish with some bluing loss at the muzzle, and the back strap has turned brown for the most part. The cylinder has some spots on it so I don't know if a chemical was spilled on it, but it is not bad. Overall I am very happy with it. Everything appears to check out according to the SCSW #3, including the smooth trigger.

Does anyone know what the barrel dimension would be? .311 or .312?













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Old 03-09-2010, 09:00 PM
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Nice gun. Looks just right for totin and shootin. I've always had an affinity for that little cartridge, but getting one to shoot accurately has always eluded me. Must've owned 5-6 of them and loved them all but dang I could never get one to shoot as good as a 38 special, much to my heartbreak. If you're a handloader you're on fertile ground to play forever to get a good accurate load. If not expensive factory is your only option. Frankly a lot of times in this caliber factory is way ahead in the accuracy department. I've shot everything from .311 to .313 and never could get any accuracy and not to mention a lot of different powders.I believe some of the bullet makers will sell you a small sample pack and you may want to try those in the different diameters so you can tinker without spending for a lot of bullets that won't group. I believe most of the time you will have better luck with Unique or 2400 but some of the new bulky powder made for cowboy action shooting may work better. Dang, you've awakened a hankering for another one and I have more than I can shoot now but the 32-20 in my 1889 Marlin is another story. Shoot the eye out of a gnat. Super accurate with the same loads that wouldn't make a good pattern in the Smith. Good luck and good shooting.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:15 PM
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Thanks for the reply. I used to have a Colt SAA in .32-20 also, but I let that one go a long time ago.
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:26 PM
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I expect you’ll need bullets around 0.314-.315” to get the groups we take for granted out of S&W .38specials & .357s. I had a K22 6” .32 WCF which I regret selling. I do not recall its exact throat or barrel dimensions, but its cylinder throat diameter, which is what you need to match bullet diameter to for best accuracy, was approximately .314”. A variety of .309”-.311” cast bullets did not give satisfactory accuracy. An RCBS mold # 32-098-SWC shot great.

If it’s your first effort reloading .32-20, take care adjusting your expander and crimper. It’s easy to buckle case necks—the brass is thin.

Gil
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Old 03-09-2010, 09:33 PM
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I'm not sure why you feel the grips are reproduction. They look like correct 1930s vintage K frame grips. The problem is your gun was probably shipped much earlier. If it worries you, correct period grips can be found still.

As for which diamter bullet to use... the one that shoots best in your particular gun. Its a crummy answer, but if anyone insists one is better than the other, they're lying to you. They may have it right for their gun, but there is just no way they can determine that for yours. If you're shooting factory ammo, use a micrometer on the bullets. Then if you buy another brand or vintage, mike those two. If you're really lucky you may find the bullet is the variable that makes your gun shoot well.

Just to counter the suggestion these guns aren't accurate, my gunshow pard still insists his 5" was the best shooting K frame he's ever had. And he's had a bunch. He's still lamenting letting go of his target 32-20.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:05 PM
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Bill, that's a very attractive revolver. I like .32-20s, and I'm sure there are more in my future. I have only one right now, a poorly renickeled gun from 1913 -- kind of an ugly stepchild, but boy can it shoot! The action is great, and allowing for my poor eyes and the invisibly thin front sight, it hits where it points at nearer distances.

Your serial number seems to point to 1920 or 1921. I agree with Dick that those stocks don't say "repro" to me. They look jake to these eyes; they just date from about 10-15 years after the gun, give or take. Is there by any chance a number mashed into the wood on an inner surface?

Good one.
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:19 PM
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Okay, I assumed the stocks were repro, as there are no washers on the back of them. There is no serial number stamped into them either.



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Old 03-09-2010, 10:41 PM
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Bill - those are factory grips and very nice
(oh, nice gun too )
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Old 03-09-2010, 10:52 PM
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Hi Mike:
Yeah, I found the section on grips in the SCSW#3, and they are indeed correct grips. Learn something new everyday. Now to get some reloading components and work up a load. I used to have all the stuff to load .32-20, but I sold it all, so now I have to start over.
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Old 03-09-2010, 11:19 PM
Muley Gil Muley Gil is offline
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Just looked at a pair of N frame service grips. No washer. I believe the washers appeared on Magna grips to fit the frame. Service style grips are rounded on top to fit the frame.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bgrafsr View Post
Okay, I assumed the stocks were repro, as there are no washers on the back of them. There is no serial number stamped into them either.




Those are as good as gold and the time line could lead to two different styles of stocks. Around 1920 S&W went from recessed gold medallions to round top with no medallions. Looks like only a letter will tell which shipped with the gun. Those particular stocks are in excellent condition for their age and I know of at least one person, not me, that would be interested in them.
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