HAMMERDOWN HELP!!

[hytro1]

I just inherited a k22 from an uncle... it has a cylinder slightly over 1.5" about an 8" barrel, a screw in the trigger guard, the S&W logo is dime sized on the right side of the frame, and blued , original wood grips, and is stamped on the yoke?/crane? with an S the serial # starts K15... I think I'm at work right now so I'm not sure of the exact serial number and stamp. any help identifying this awsome revolver and it's worth would be greatly appreciated.

[hytro1]

I inherited a S&W K22 from my uncle. I was trying to get some specifics on it's date of manufacture, rarity and worth (I'm not selling) The revolver has a ribbed barrel of approx 8". The six shot cylynder measures a bit over 1.5". The S&W logo is dime sized and on the right side of the frame. The trigger guard has a screw. the grip is original wood and checkered. the grip has grooves on the front and back. The yoke is stamped and can be seen when the cylinder swings out.
The serial # on the butt starts K1.... and I think the yoke stamp has an "S" and then 4 or 5 numbers below that and then either an 8 or a B. I'm at work right now so I cant give the exact serial number right now. Any help from the experts would be greatly appreciated. (Funny thing, when I picked it up and held it, it felt great! I knew it was a great design and picked that one even though I had no idea

[DCWilson]

Hytro1, welcome to the forum.

Don't worry about the numbers on the yoke. Those are factory assembly control numbers that are meaningless in terms of dating the gun. The serial number (K1xxxx, or however many extra digits there are) is what tells the tale. What would be telling if it appeared inside the yoke is the stamp MOD 17, which would stand for Model 17, the successor designation to the K-22 Masterpiece. If the model designation is missing, you gun was made before 1957.

A K-series number whose first following digit is a 1 would have been shipped in 1947, 1948, or 1951-3, depending on whether there are four, five, or six digits after the K.

But eight-inch barrels (actually 8-3/8", measured from the muzzle to face of the cylinder) were not available on K-22s in those years. Six inches is standard. It is possible that a longer barrel from a later model has been installed on your gun, but it would help to see photos to render an opinion on that.

Is there a screw at the top of the side plate? If so, the gun is from before 1955 (which I suspect is the case, with a K1xxxx serial number).

Condition and closeness to original configuration will determine value. Again, here's where pics would help.

Keep talking to us, and the people here will get you the information you are looking for. And don't hesitate to start your own thread once you have a full serial number and (we hope) some pics.

[hytro1]

Hammerdown, can you help me with a K22 I got from my uncle? I have a 4 screw K22 #K 154196. It has an 8 inch barrel ribbed (approx), a cylyder that measures over 1.5", the grip is groved front and back and has the original wood with the diamond, speed hammer, frame is blued and looks like a masterpiece but I am not sure with all the conflicting info out there. (the yoke is also stamped with S 6810 8 that is why I am confused) is this a 1948 or is it closer to late 50s-early 60's? My aunt was going to give it to me but she didn't realize what it was...I don't feel right taking it without helping her out some. Hammerdown can you please help me decide how much to pay her that is fair and if possible give some background on the revolver? Thanks hammerdown, I know you can help.- HYTRO1

[peyton]

I would hand her $500.00 at a minimum. Did you get a chance to fire it? I can not help with the age question.

[handejector]

hytro,
I moved your posts from the other thread to this one.

[hytro1]

Thanks for the warm welcome! I'll upload some pics tonight.

Sincerely, HYTRO1

[Sebago Son]

There are alot of knowledgeable K-22 Collectors here... no need to rely on any one single "source".

In fact, I have a few and have studied this type for 30 years... Let me see if I can help.

1.) The gun's Serial Number is stamped into the butt of the grip strap and may reappear in other places such as the rear of the cylinder face, under the Right Hand Grip, under the barrel, etc.



2.) You say that the serial number starts with "S"? That's incongruous with what we know of the Post War Serial Ranges. The earliest known is K117, and it looks like this.



3.) The barrel should be 6" measured from the cylinder face to the muzzle.



With regard to worth, in absolute dollars, much depends upon originality and overall condition. Ranges are wide. earlier numbers in mint condition will bring the most, later guns that have been altered bring the least. We can narrow that down when we see your photos.

Warmest Welcome.

Drew

[JSR III]

Welcome to the forum. The serial number for your gun is the K 154196 one. Any other numbers that you are seeing are assembly or fitters numbers and were only used by the factory to identify parts and keep everything for this particular gun together.

That serial number places your gun at around 1952, assuming that it was shipped in serial number sequence (which not all S&W's were). When the factory did a run of a particular model, they were stored in the vault and shipped as demand required. The factory did not follow a strict policy of pulling guns from the vault in numerical order. It is possible, usually rare, that a gun with a lower number shows as having been shipped after a gun with a higher number. Again not typical but it did happen.

Assuming that your gun was shipped in 1952, then as others have advised, it is a pre 17 K22 revolver. The 8 3/8" barrel was introduced around 1958 for this model so it seems unlikely that the barrel is original, but only a factory letter will tell for sure. The factory would build just about any configuration if there was money to be made.

As for value, I purchased pre 17 (K 1722) last year at a gun show and I paid $500 for it. The gun is about 96% to 97% with original diamond stocks.

I would tell your aunt the approximate value and ask her what she wants for it. As a relative, I would think that she would not be looking for full retail value. Should she take it to a local gun store, they will only give her about half that. IMHO

[Muley Gil]

hytro1,

Are there any dates stamped on the grip frame, like 12.66? That would indicate that your pre 17 went back to the factory in December 1966 for some sort of work, like possibly having another barrel installed. There should be a serial number, minus the "K", stamped inside the right grip.

[hytro1]

Here are the pics I promised. the sun must have been in my eyes when I guestamated the barrel lenghth at 8 when it is actually a 6...sorry for the misinfo. I would guess it is in about average shape... what is the approx retail?

[tocohillsguy]

Nice gun. There are some real experts on this forum. I'm not one of them, but $500 is probably about right for a nice K22, although they have been known to sell for more. The prices for K22s seem to be on the rise; probably due to ammo expense, although many of the old Smiths seem to be coveted by some collectors. If you can find the original box, paperwork, and tools I would think the price would go up significantly. The original little screwdriver (actually it's a sight adjustment tool) that came with the gun is probably worth $100 all by itself. Here's a K22 that went for $800...

Smith & Wesson K-22 Masterpiece pre-17 .22LR s&w : Revolvers at GunBroker.com

It's older than your revolver (c. 1948), and has the original box. Perhaps this maybe an unusually high price? Perhaps the condition is also nicer than yours? Hard for me to tell. Condition can account for a huge difference in price. Almost new in box vs. very good condition may darn near double the price. Notice that the grips number to the gun on the one that sold on Gunbroker. I suspect you have the original grips on your gun, but you would have to take them off to confirm. Also, I don't know if all grips where numbered to K22's or if S&W stopped that practice at some point in time. Good luck. I'm sure others will chime in.

BTW, here's one that sold for $499.99. Notice the condition isn't bad, but not as good at the one I previously pointed to...

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/Vie...Item=157917740

[Hammerdown]

Originally Posted by hytro1

Here are the pics I promised. the sun must have been in my eyes when I guestamated the barrel lenghth at 8 when it is actually a 6...sorry for the misinfo. I would guess it is in about average shape... what is the approx retail?

Hello hytro1
I have been rather busy the past few days and just now saw your thread here, so please excuse my absence or neglect to respond to you. That is a very nice looking K-22 you have there, and I would say that $500.00 is more than fair on it as they have been averaging $700.00-$800.00 lately it seems, at least in my area, and I paid that for an early Post-War example I have that shipped very early in 1947 and was glad to get it for that. K-22's are Hot right now and I feel part of that is the cost of center fire ammo compared to .22 ammo Plus the fact that they shoot so Dang accurate they can make the Novice appear to be an expert on target.


From the Pictures you have shown, it appears to have it's original factory Low gloss Matte style bluing finish and it shows to have very little carry or handling wear which in your case is a Plus, and it also does not show Bluing wear on the high spots, or the sides of the end of the barrel from constant carry in a Leather holster which Definatly detracts from a Guns over all appeal or value to collectors. In consideration of what a Gun is worth, to me A gun's value is based on condition and originality. The Higher the condition, The Higher the value of it period. In some cases serial numbers do Play into a gun's value, but if we are speaking about Rare specimens for collecting, that would would have to be Club gun's that start with a Zero in front of their serial number which I have seen in the past from a sage S&W collector member of The Smith & Wesson Collectors Association, now those are Truly Rare as they were Given by the factory as shooting event Prizes, or gifts to important people along the way, or people that the owners of S&W knew personally.



As far as features of that time period go, your gun has the Up-Swept style hammer called a speed hammer or nick named a Fish Hook Hammer.The stock's appear to be original in finish and are called Magna diamond grip's and if you remove the right panel it should have your guns serial number stamped into it if they are original to your gun when it shipped from the factory. An easy way to remove them without scratching, prying or hurting a Gun's finish is to loosen the attachment screw most of the way, then push the grips off the frame with the screwdriver blade tip, and you should also find the guns serial number on the rear of the extractor as well since it was not mentioned.


I have had many K-22's over the years, but far be it that I consider myself and expert, I am Just an Enthusiast and one that tries to learn along the way. If it is Technical advice you seek in the realm of S&W hand gun collecting, a True Expert in that subject of any S&W is MR. Roy Jinks the S&W Historian and chairman of the board of The Smith & Wesson Collectors Association. He has been at the S&W Factory since the very early 1950's and at one time was in charge of the S&W service department so there is little he has not seen or come across in the line of guns at that Position. He has written many Informative Books on S&W's, and to me is the single most Factual authority on S&W's bar None, and the one we humbled modest collectors turn to with our S&W questions. Best regards, Hammerdown

[hytro1]

Thanks for everyones help! I took the grips off and they are original. One last question: Would you guys thke it out to the range alot? or just test it out and put it away. Personnaly, I'm hoping you say "fire away"

Thanks again for all of the help and answers you guys gave me.

Sincerely, HYTRO1

[VM]

Originally Posted by hytro1

Thanks for everyones help! I took the grips off and they are original. One last question: Would you guys thke it out to the range alot? or just test it out and put it away. Personnaly, I'm hoping you say "fire away"

Thanks again for all of the help and answers you guys gave me.

Sincerely, HYTRO1

Shoot it and enjoy it!
If you take care of it and clean it after shooting, it will look the same 5 years from now with a couple thousand rounds down the pipe.

[45Wheelgun]

Shoot the snot out of it. Clean it, love it, and then shoot it some more. With a little LTC that gun will out live you and probably your heirs.

[hytro1]

I'm looking forward to having alot of fun with this one! Thanks again-HYTRO!

[Engine49guy]

Welcome to the Forum,
You inherited a fine handgun there!
I would shoot it and enjoy it as it should last a lifetime if cared for properly.

In case it didnt come with the original owners manual here is a link to a copy you can print and keep.

http://stevespages.com/pdf/s&w_17.pdf


Take some time to read a bit about care and use as there are proper and improper ways to clean and use a rimfire revolver.

NEVER slam the cylinder shut, Rather gently but firmly close it using the "Crane" of the gun.

NEVER dry fire your revolver, It is a rimfire weapon and will hammer the cylinder causing damage.

Be careful when cleaning to use proper gun solvents oils and cleaners.
Using the wrong chemical can destroy a firearms finish in an instant.
If in doubt do some research.

Likewise use caution not to damage the crown of the muzzle or cylinders while using a cleaning rod.

If properly cared for , One day you may pass this very gun on to your son or nephew and he will be as happy as you are right now.
Good Luck!

[hytro1]

Thanks for the link, the box and stuff might still be around but I figure I'll wait awhile before I start rooting around at my aunts.

[Göring's S&W]

Nice K-22 you have there. You definitely can shoot it and you should. A k22 will likely never wear out and its not super rare or brand new condition wise so you should be able to shoot it a lot and never hurt the value with proper care, of course. The box for it would be a blue and gold box, anything else is incorrect for the given time period. I too inherited a K-22, mine from 1953, and it is a priceless heirloom to me. Its also a good gun to learn handgun shooting with. If you miss, it won't be the gun. Enjoy

[hytro1]

I figured with the heavy frame it would stand up to alot of use, I just didn't want to hurt the value...not that I would ever sell as it is an heirloom that will be my sons and then my first born grandson who is almost four. I'm dying to get the little guy properly trained and able to shoot safely...he's a little young for the politics but I want him to understand the value of our right to bear arms and eliminate anyones BS because he will know the truth...how old do you folks recommend he should be before we start...I think the K22 would be an excellent starting point with him.

[DCWilson]

Originally Posted by hytro1

I figured with the heavy frame it would stand up to alot of use, I just didn't want to hurt the value...not that I would ever sell as it is an heirloom that will be my sons and then my first born grandson who is almost four. I'm dying to get the little guy properly trained and able to shoot safely...he's a little young for the politics but I want him to understand the value of our right to bear arms and eliminate anyones BS because he will know the truth...how old do you folks recommend he should be before we start...I think the K22 would be an excellent starting point with him.

Starting age is variable in my opinion. I probably wouldn't try to start teaching anyone under the age of six, and not even then if I didn't get a sense of responsibility or maturity from the child.

I'm not sure a K-22 is the best handgun to start with. Young hands are small hands, and long barrels can be disproportionately heavy when held out at the ends of short arms. I'd think a J-frame gun with a four-inch barrel (or some non-Smith equivalent) would be a good starting point. Then move up to the K-22 as soon as grasp and weight management skills make it possible. Just a guess, but I'd think for most kids a K-frame revolver would not be a good fit (and maybe not even a possible fit) until they were maybe 10-12.

[hytro1]

Good info... he's a pretty big kid but I agree he is still a little young. Do you think a 10-22 would be a better starting point? or should I start with handguns?