I'd like to remove some lead that has built up on the outside of the cylinder on one of my guns. The lead removing cloth products I've found say either "not for use on blued guns" or "repeated use can remove bluing". Can anyone suggest a safe way to remove the lead from a blue finish?
Thanks

Are you retiring the gun from service? If so, cleaning off the lead makes some sense for appearance's sake. If you intend to shoot the gun again, the lead will just be deposited the next time you shoot ammunition with lead bullets, so why bother?

The lead removal cloths I have seen are supposed to be safe for blued guns. If they were not, what good would they be since most guns are blue?

I have used the little bronze disks that come with the lewis lead remover kit. I use the disk with Hoppe's, it works for me. No finish removed so far, YMMV.
Rabbit

I used the lead removal cloths and after a few uses noticed some blue thinning. I stopped using it. No good solution that I know of.

Repeated cleaning of the front of the cylinder will eventually thin or remove the bluing. Soaking in Hoppe's then wiping with cloth will remove a reasonable amount, and keep the gun running in good form. Unless you do not intend to shoot the gun any longer there isn't much use in trying to get it all off. One of the advantages of Stainless guns. I wrap a large cleaning patch around a tongue depressor (or Popsicle stick) and soak with Hoppe's and scrub. That's after I soak the front in Hoppe's and leave stand for awhile.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I had the same problem, so I thought why not use flitz? It worked but took a lot of elbow grease. Then, I thought, if my eletric tooth brush worked so well on my on my teeth why not buy a cheap one and try it with the Flitz on the cylinder face of my blue and nickle guns? It worked like a champ! Especially on the hard to reach areas around the forcing cone etc. The bristles are so soft that they won't scratch the finish and a quick manual brushing with a cleaning solvent, Hoppe's or "Ed's Red" removes the Flitz

De Oppresso Liber

Switching bullets may help. When I used swagged bullets I always had lead on the side of the cylinder and in a couple of spots on the frame. That stopped when I switched to cast bullets. The deposits stopped and disappeared without my help.

Flitz, Brasso, and other micro-abrasive preparations will work fantastically well -- but although they may be "micro", they ARE abrasive. Repeated use will most definitely remove bluing, and using them with any powered device will wear it even quicker.

Once in a great great while I will use such things on a blued revolver, but at least 99% of the time I just use Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush, and call the results good.

Now, on stainless guns, the micro-abrasives are by far the eaisest way to go. Some will warn of wallowed-out chamber mounths and such, but using such mild abrasives your elbow will fall apart before you can do that much damage.

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Pisgah

Pisgah: I was going to try a bronze brush but I was afraid that might take off bluing...I tried it a little bit and it worked, but I stopped because I wasn't sure it would be safe...if you've had no problem I'll go with that.

Thanks everybody for the feedback. This forum is the best...anything that comes up I can always get alot of information and suggestions.

A bronze brush won't hurt a thing. And if you ever find a rust spot (horrors!), a copper penny makes a great scraper that, used with a bit of gun oil, will remove the rust and leave the blue.

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Pisgah

Thanks Pisgah.

I've had good results with a product called Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner or a similar product sold by Brownells as their Stainless Steel Sponge.

Shooter's Choice liquid lead remover.

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Doug

One method I have used sparingly at the shop prior to removing from service or sale is to use a felt wheel with some polishing compound on the stainless ones in particular. I really do not recommend doing this all the time however because eventually it will wear away the steel. As for the blued ones well I have access to hot blue tanks and if the bluing gets too "thin" I have no problem doing a new hot blue job on them. I don't get the identical bluing from smith but its still quite presentable.

If you really want to do it the hard way, then ignore this message.
But if you want the easiest & best solution to your problem then click on this link: Big 45 Frontier Metal Cleaner

I've been using these for years and they do it all!

> Removes rust from blued surfaces without harming blue at all.
> Removes lead from bore - just snip off a piece and wind it around brush then push thru and watch lead disappear.

Check this out...you won't be sorry.