Please help me ID this small framed 32 S&W Long revolver

[Model67ftWin]

I got this chromed S&W from my father who inherited it from his uncle. I don't know much about the history but it's in pretty good shape from what I can tell. It is however a bear for me to shoot. I basically have to give up on my pinky and cradle the butt in my ring finger in order to get my index finger on the trigger. Option 2, rest my index finger beside the cylinder and pull the trigger with my birdy finger. Seems a little sketchy for me. I'm thinking of selling it or trading it for a 38 special for target shooting, and need to know what it is and what it might be worth.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks!
Doug

[4011]

ThaTs been in the family for sometime. Why not go buy yourself a nice used 38 spl. And keep the family weapon in the family.

[gmborkovic]

Just from a few bad pics, I would say factory nickle. Pins and roll marks look original. It would help if you posted some pics with grips removed.
Just asking. Hammer and trigger appear to be faded and not nickel.
Does it indicate 32 Long on the barrel?

[DocB]

My guess would be early 1920's. . .could be from the teens. Value is around $200-$250. At least, that's what I find them for around here. Great guns and fun to shoot. I would keep it. You can buy a 38 Special for around $350. I like the ones with the C or D serial numbers from the 1960's and 1970's. The Model 10-5 is my favorite since I grew up with them. Plus, they are plentiful. You can find a nice vintage one in 95% or better condition; and, you can pick the barrel length you want in that price range. . .4 inch, 5 inch, or 6 inch.

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

That looks like factory nickel to me.

I wish I had a family revolver left to me. Keep it; it may grow on you.

[Hondo44]

Welcome to the forum.

You have a ".32 Hand Ejector 3rd Model" as David posted below, which were produced in the 1917 to 1942 period; yours likely from 1921 based on the serial #341304. Possibly after 1922 if it has MADE IN U.S.A. stamped on the right front of frame where the glare spot is in your photo.

It's all original condition including what's remaining of the factory nickel finish. And the hard rubber stocks appear to be unbroken, which is unusual. It needs a good cleaning and polish with Flitz or the like to get the tarnish and minute surface scratches off. These are OK to clean, unlike silver wares.

I highly recommend keeping it in the family to pass down, with its provenance (everything you know about who owned it and why) written down for future generations. Once it's gone it's gone forever. It may be way to small for you but a great learner gun for the grand or great grand kids.

[weatherby]

Keep the heirloom Doug there are solutions just switch those grips for shooting.





lastly a set of J RD/SQ targets

[Model67ftWin]

Thanks for the replies! If there are grip options for it, maybe I will keep it. As is I'm embarrassed to shoot it. Makes me look like a novice. With better grips and some practice I might be able to shoot with it. Knowing what model and time period gives me somewhere to begin looking for options.

I totally get the keeping it in the family thing. My username is a hat tip to my grandfather's Winchester Model 67. Best guess on the age is around '38 - '40 construction. I stripped and refinished the stock last winter and it came out pretty nicely. I took my son shooting with it this spring and he loved it. That one's staying in the family for sure. The Smith-I never shot growing up, didn't even know about it. I don't get the impression my dad did either. He found it in a box while cleaning out a closet. There really isn't a sentimental connection to it but as you say, once gone, it's gone. My daughter loves my Ruger Mark II, so I might have to let my son try this one out. I also see I can get wadcutters for it so it might make a decent target pistol once I get grips and learn to shoot it.

[Model67ftWin]

Originally Posted by gmborkovic

Just from a few bad pics, I would say factory nickle. Pins and roll marks look original. It would help if you posted some pics with grips removed.
Just asking. Hammer and trigger appear to be faded and not nickel.
Does it indicate 32 Long on the barrel?

Yes, I think it's factory nickel. The barrel does say 32 LONG CTG. Since I was limited to 5 pics I didn't post this one up earlier. If it will let me add another, I will do so. Hammer and trigger are missing nickel, which tells me someone shot it or played with it quite a bit at one point.

Speaking of that, I have heard horror stories about dry-firing older guns. I'm guessing this one fits into that category? What's the general consensus on this practice?

[Jim Watson]

S&W did not nickel plate hammers and triggers at all.
The case colors can fade, which is what you see.
A common gun but in nice condition and with family connection.

[DCWilson]

I hate to disagree with Hondo44 about any small frame revolver, but I think he may have missed the faint sixth digit of the serial number on the butt of the gun. This is actually a .32 Hand Ejector/3rd model from about 1921. Jim's comments would be perfectly on target for a gun with a five-digit serial number matching only the high contrast digits in the photograph.

I also encourage you to keep a family revolver and just put bigger stocks on it for comfortable shooting.

One other grip that guys with big hands sometimes use for small revolvers is to locate your ring finger directly behind the trigger guard with your little finger below it, then kind of fold your middle finger over the ring finger so that part of it is directly below the trigger guard. This keeps your forefinger on the trigger and not up where expanding gases from the b/c gap might singe it. This looks a little sketchy and may not work well if you have arthritis, but some people seem to use this grip effectively.

[Hondo44]

David,

That is not a disagreement, that is a bonafide and deserved correction. I can't type, I can't spell, can't even see, and I guess I can no longer even think. I looked at the trigger rebound slide pin to see if it had been polished flat indicating a refinish, and still didn't tumble to the fact that the 3x,xxx serial # wouldn't have that pin!

Thank you for rescuing me again.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by Model67ftWin

Yes, I think it's factory nickel. The barrel does say 32 LONG CTG. Since I was limited to 5 pics I didn't post this one up earlier. If it will let me add another, I will do so. Hammer and trigger are missing nickel, which tells me someone shot it or played with it quite a bit at one point.

Speaking of that, I have heard horror stories about dry-firing older guns. I'm guessing this one fits into that category? What's the general consensus on this practice?

It's fine if you use a set of snap caps.

I'm one never to settle for something less than I want. If you prefer a .38 Spl, I'd get one instead of trying to conform the .32 to something it isn't.

[DWalt]

Allegedly, dry-firing will not harm a S&W. However I was brought up to never snap an empty gun, so I don't. Large grips will help a great deal if you plan to shoot it.

[Rodger_58]

Welcome!
I wish I had an extra .38 that I could trade you!
(just kidding) sort of.
I don't know if this suggestion would help, but I have a pre-model 30 that I added a grip adapter to.

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! That little .32 HE is an I frame gun. All of the current grips are made for a J frame which has a slightly longer grip frame. J frame grips that enclose the grip frame and extend below it can be made to fit. That is what I recommend to make it easier for you to hold. Alternately, S&W made extension grips for the .32 Regulation Police revolvers. These will fit the .32 Hand Ejector as shown on the photo below.



The top revolver is a .32 Regulation Police with period-appropriate extension grips. The revolver below is a .32 Hand Ejector that is wearing Jay Scott Regulation Police extension grips. The extension is only about 1/4" but it is often enough to allow your pinky finger to stay on the grip.

[Model67ftWin]

So with a little dremel work these could be made to fit? I don't know how much I would like the smooth finish but a little felt tape could be added for grip I suppose. Thoughts?

Custom Combat Wood Grips for the S&W J Frame : Pistol Grips at GunBroker.com

Then there are these Hogue grips in purple or black (sorry, no pink). Thought I might get purple for my wife. Same situation I would guess, a little dremel work to relieve any binding spots and bolt up.

Hogue Monogrip Grips S&W J-Frame Round Butt Rubber

[Hondo44]

Both of those grips will fit without any Dremel work.



S&W J frame post war target and combat stocks will fit all of the following regardless of whether the gun has a round or square butt:

ANY pre war I frame which all have I frame size grip frames.

ANY I frame and J frame with I frame size grip (these have the small, rounder trigger guard, and they are PRE Models of 1953):

ANY I frame and J frame with J frame size grip Models of 1953 and up (these have the larger egg shaped trigger guard):


I guarantee it. The grip locating pin is in the same place for all of these applications.

Targets:



Early combat stocks w/medallions and smooth:






There’s also these combats, checkered:



Or smooth:






And these:




Following are the choices to keep the pre war traditional look.

Below is the Reg Police extended stocks on the correct rebated grip frame.



This photo shows where a little wood will need removing to fit your rd butt frame w/o the rebate:



RP grips after being modified to fit round butt:



Hard rubber Target stocks with two screws showing the factory inlay for the round butt frame and covering the entire backstrap. They will also fit on rebated grip frames:



Target stocks also come in wood:

[Model67ftWin]

Just a quick update on this little revolver. I bought a set of Hogue grips for a J-frame. They are 2 part grips with the upper in rubber, with a removable silicone cushion over the backstrap. The lower part is plastic injection molded (complete with gate vestige) that snaps on over the bottom of the frame. The top ended up sticking above the frame about a quarter inch. Instead of going back to the drawing board, I spent a little time smoking up my garage whittling down the rubber on my bench grinder. I only shoot single-action, so I had to at least clear the hammer. It isn't terribly pretty but it is functional. I can now group decently with it. One trick I learned is that I cannot hardly see the front blade (middle age eyes stink) when sighted on bullseye and without being able to see the blade, I can't see where I'm pointed. So I tip the barrel up ever so slightly and aim about 1/2 to 1" low.

This also spurred on my next purchase, a Model 14-3. It should arrive in a week or so. I should be able to see those sights a lot better. After it arrives, I might put the original grips back on the 32 and keep it more for show and tell for now, knowing that I can always refit the Hogue grips if I want to shoot it.

I think I'm forming an addiction.

[Hondo44]

Bravo!

Never under estimate the miracles that can come about in the garage!

From your description of the grips sticking up 1/4" above the frame, I believe the Hogues, are not actually for a J frame, but for the Model 40 (Centennial) hammerless JC frame (JAC for the alloy frame) or the Model 49 Bodyguard JS frame (JAS for the alloy frame). Their frames are taller at the 'knuckle' of the frame back strap, shown here:

Ignoring the square butt at upper left, from left to right are the early high horn Centennial stocks JC frame (the tallest), standard J frame round butt (or square) stocks (the lowest), and Bodyguard stocks JS frame in between the former two in heigth:



Is the 1/2 round at the top, back of the grip a bit small for your grip frame 1/2 round cut out? If so grips are for the JC frame. If the right size 1/2 round, they're for the JS frame.

[Model67ftWin]

She arrived today and I have already put a few rounds through her. Wow! what a nice shooter. I'm still amazed by the SA trigger pull on these K-frame factory revolvers. It gives new meaning to "finger off the trigger until you are ready to shoot!" All told I have just shy of $500 in her. I certainly didn't steal it but I don't think I overpaid for the condition of this revolver.

[Jesse168]

Originally Posted by Jim Watson

S&W did not nickel plate hammers and triggers at all.
The case colors can fade, which is what you see.
A common gun but in nice condition and with family connection.

The 32 long caliber S&W made about 1908 that my Grandfather had since about 1930 has nickel plated hammer and trigger. I know he never has any replating done to it.
Jesse168

[Hondo44]

Had to have been re-nickeled before he found it.