Whats the best method of removing grips to avoid damage on old j frames, where the corners fit just behind the trigger guard.

I have one that has been repaired (both sides) and I don't want to break them out.

My method is to remove the screw, screw it in the right grip from the outside and wiggle it free. Then tap the inside of the left side down at the locator pin. Any better methods out there. I know this is a fragile area.


Charlie

For grips that are snug, I just unscrew the grip screw to where it comes loose, then screw it back in about 1 1/2 full turns to avoid damaging the threads at the tip, and tap on the rear end of the screwdriver with my hand or my shooboy hammer. Once the right panel comes loose, unscrew the screw and remove the left panel too. Works great.

Ditto on the method used by Gun 4 Fun. It works great for me as well.

+1 on the shooboy hammer.....I just back out the screw as mentioned and tap lightly on the screw. That usally does the trick. Once you have one off, you're over the hump.

Go easy!!

I've removed a few thousand pairs of grips.

I have hammered or tapped on ONE pair in that time. ONE pair. They were heavily rusted in place- literally rusted to the frame.

Normally, I do this-
Loosen the screw completely. I use a short, pocket type SD usually. Some factory SD's are wider than a grip screw, so I do NOT use a factory SD.

With the screw loose, I simply hold the gun firmly, and push steadily on the screw head with the SD in the slot. Do it over a table with something soft to catch the grip you push.

If it moves some but is still tight on the pin, stick a credit card in the crack till it hits the grip pin, and gently pry it off.

For the other grip, still holding the gun firmly, wrap the fingers of the strong hand arond the grip, insert thumb thru frame, and push.

I see lots of grips with tiny rectangles in a patch on the inside from the SD tip tapping on it. I hate that. Rest assured, none were ever put there by me.

Admittedly, I have always had strong hands and find this to be quite easy.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

I use a screwdriver:

Magna Type: I wiggle it between the metal and the grip until it is in far enough. I then move the SD back and forth until the grip pops off.

Target Stocks: I try really hard to get it between the wood seam/crack in the bottom...then I just bend the SD back and forth.


J/K


I am +1 on both methods mentioned. They have both worked equally well for me.

You're kidding, right?!?

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"I also cook."

I use the same method as handejector:
Push with the screwdriver tip on the head of the loosened screw to remove the first panel.
Then use the butt of the screwdriver to gently tonk on the inside of the second panel till it pops off.
I do this on a counter top over a towel.

So that's where all of those notched stock edges came from.

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Doug

OK, I get it now... J/K = just kidding

Duh???
He scared the heck out of me!

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"I also cook."

I take out the Stock screw, screw it into the other side stock, and gently pull off the off side stock. It is then very easy to remove the other stock with my fingers. Works for service or target stocks.

The method which gun 4 fun describes is what they teach at the factory school - except they gave us a little ball peen hammer, not a shooboy hammer...

Thanks guys. I saw a grip maker do the same basic thing with a colt SAA, but those screws were longer and stuck out about a 1/4" from the grip when nearly unscrewed, so he just tapped on the screw head with the butt of the screwdriver.

4-screw - I read your post 3 or 4 times, trying to make it say something it wasn't saying. you got me.

When Looking at those factory J/I frame magnas, the area proned to chipping looks like they are set in at an angle. Looked again this morning and guess they are at right angles. Thanks for all the help.


Charlie

I developed a little different method to be used on revolver grips; I had a compressed air needle nozzle available and one day I got the inspiration to remove the grip screw and put the air nozzle up close to the screw hole and give it a blast. I quickly found the best way to hold the grips into place to prevent one from flying off and getting marred. It works like a charm! Only once did I have to insert the grip screw from the outside on the off grip to plug that hole in order to get enough air pressure to make the near grip loosen. ........... Big Cholla

Yep...just kidding (j/k)

The key is PATIENCE when taking off a difficult set of grips. The extra time and care you take will make you feel better than if you rush it.

I used to use the the push-with-the-screw method so many here recommend, and I have not personally experienced a problem with it. I still use that method when no great force is required. However, Roy Fishpaw warned me that that could bust out a chip around the escutcheon, and recommended removing the screw and inserting a punch at an angle and gently applying force, so that the punch would encounter a more substantial part of the wood.

FWIW.

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Formerly Model520Fan

I use the method that SGTSPD uses. Never had to beat or hit anything with a hammer.