I apologize if this has been covered before - I did a search and didn't see anything that answers my questions. I've been looking for an inexpensive 44HE to use as a shooter and finally found a second model today. It's been carried some and the finish is worn but there is no rust and the bore and mechanics are excellent. It's got the lanyard loop hole which I think is normal for this model but in looking at it there are some markings that I don't understand. First, the S&W stamp is small and on the left side of the frame - I've only seen these with large stamps on the right side. Second, there is a "Made in the USA" on the right side of the frame - I've never seen this before. And last, there is a small eagle head with a S2 under it (I think) on the inside of the frame where the cylinder snaps in, like it was military at some point? I've never seen this before either. Is any of this out of the ordinary? The serial number is 234XX - this number is present on the butt, cylinder and under the barrel. 229XX is on the inside of the cylinder yoke?? and where this fits into the gun in a mirror image. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Here are some photos.

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It's good to be the king.

Levallois,

I believe what you have there is a 2nd Model 44 HE built on a Frame that was Originally Gov't Inspected to be used on Model 1917 45 HE's. I have seen other 2nd Model 44's with these markings in the past & I'm sure one of the Military Experts will be along shortly to confirm this. Judging by your Serial Number it is likely your Revolver's Shipping Date will be approx. 1925-1926,but this isn't etched in stone as S&W didn't generally build these Early Revolvers in any particular order. Whichever Frame was closest to the Front of the Frame Rack was the one they used. Hope this helps clear up your question!!

Take Care!!

What you have is a perfectly normal 2nd Model .44 Hand Ejector. S&W forged a bunch of frames for the Model 1917 that had receiver the initial inspection and the inspectors stamp. It took years for these frames to be used up, at least into the late 1930s. I have a commercial Model 1917 that dates to ca. 1937 that has the inspectors stamp on it.

The single line "address" and the small trade mark are normal for this time period. The five digit number in the yoke cut and on the yoke is an assembly number and has no meaning.

Can't tell from your photo, does the gun have a domed plug in the lanyard loop hole, or just an empty hole?

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Gunsmithing since 1961

The small logo on the left side was standard marking for S&W revolvers beginning a couple of years after WWI and continuing to 1938. Then they moved to the sideplate again, where they had been before WWI.

You may know already that your stocks are diamond magnas from after WWII. The sharp shoulder at the top edge makes me think they could be 1940s or early 1950s. Nice wood, and somewhat valuable in their own right. Is there a number stamped on the inner surface of the right panel?

That is going to make a great shooter. I'm still waiting for a .44 that I can haul to the range any old time. I'd be delighted to find one like yours. I have a semi-distressed Brazilian that serves that purpose for a .45 ACP revolver, and I love it.

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David Wilson

The numbers on the crane and in the crane cut can also be found on the inside of the sideplate.

I appreciate the replies! I suspected it was a "regular" 2nd model but just outside my level of experience/expertise. There is only a hole for the lanyard ring. I knew the stocks weren't stock for the gun but not much else so thanks for the heads up on them - there is a number stamped in two rows - a 73 over a 299.

Any suggestions about what commercial ammo to try it out with until I decide to reload 44 special?

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It's good to be the king.

Levallois,

Dave is right about your Grips!! You might want to check into pair of Grips for it. I'm sure if you post these to be available quite a few of the members would have great interest in them. Especially since they are Sharp Shoulder N-Frame Magna's. The Serial Number puts them approx. in the 1949-1951 Range. They do look to be in better than average condition!! Just something to think about. I'm sure you shouldn't have any trouble finding a set to replace them with. These Grips aren't the most comfortable to shoot with either. Also,I would think that the ammo they're making now for SASS Shooting is a fairly light load to shoot off the shelf until you get some loads worked up for yourself. Just Light Loads Only!! You will run into problems with Hot Loads.

I wouldn't shoot anything hot in that revolver, but standard loads with 246 gr bullets should be fine. Softer loads, like those produced for cowboy action shooting, would be no trouble. I don't know what kind of .44 match ammo is available, but match loads with wadcutter bullets would be good too.

Those grips were probably first mounted on a Postwar Transitional Heavy Duty shipped in 1949. The full serial number would have been S73299. (There are lots of Transitional HDs with serial numbers in that vicinity.)

It should be easy to find a replacement lanyard loop if you want one. The shaft slides straight into the hole in the butt, and then a transverse pin (also probably missing from your gun) locks it in place.

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David Wilson

Hide the grips. There are folks who would kill to find them. If you look you'll see they're longer than the frame. You could sand them to fit, but it would be a waste. Just start looking for some non-medallion grips in your travels. They turn up from time to time. Transitional N grips are just hard to locate.

The gun is a goodie. Don't become too attached to it until you see how it shoots. Most are just great, and if yours turns out that way you've got a real winner.

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Dick Burg

Again, I thank all who responded. What's the old saying? "It's better to be lucky than good?" I'm looking at the revolver for a shooter and don't even give the grips a second thought. What a maroon, as Bugs used to say. I guess that I'll hold on the the grips for a while until I figure out what they're worth and whether I should just buy a gun to fit them.

Cowboy action ammo it is. What about 44 russian cowboy stuff? Or is it too short? I actually have some of that handy.

Thanks again !

John

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It's good to be the king.

Hi John,

I see no reason not to try the 44 Russian & see how it shoots. It's definitely too hot of a load,but I don't think you're going to get a true idea of it's accuracy though.

As far as the Grips,I'd suggest posting some decent close-up photos & the other members will give you an idea of their value. And like Dick said,alot of these guys would kill to get a respectable pair as Sharp Shouldered Magna's are hard to find.

Take Care,Masterpiece

John, one reason to keep the loads within factory levels is because I believe that gun was before they started heat treating the cylinders. They can as RBURG pointed out amazingly accurate and just darn fun to shoot. Gun appears righteous as has been pointed out by so many. Couln't ask for a better shooter.
Enjoy

I'm afraid Masterpiece is not quite right (sorry). Those .44 Russian cowboy loads are absolutely NOT too hot for your 2nd HE. Smith & Wesson has always listed .44 Russian as an acceptable subload for their .44s, whether Special or Magnum variety. And, if those Russians are loaded true to standard Cowboy practice, they'll actually be a little "softer" than the standard black powder .44 Russian. Shoot 'em !

Larry

44HE price check

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

What style target grips were available for these revolvers back in the day? I'd love to see photos of these kind of grips. Thanks!

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It's good to be the king.

lebomm,

That's what I meant to say it just didn't come out that way when I typed it. Sorry Levallois!! I wouldn't have said to go ahead & try them if they wouldn't have been safe to shoot.