To shoot or not to shoot

Elroy · #51 08-24-2011, 10:28 PM

Please review the pictures below and advise about the lack of blue on the mushroom ejector

Notice how the coned surface is polished and lacks any blue.

The action has a tendency to bind and we have noted this is due to the right hand threads of the ejector working loose from the standard rotation of the cylinder.

Is this polished cone surface factory or was this smithed at one time??

From reading the board we understand that S&W went to a left hand thread on the ejector at some point. When did this engineering change take place and can we safely assume this LH thread was implemented to address this tendency to work loose ??

What about that polished cone??

Hammerdown · #52 08-25-2011, 06:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elroy

Elroy here, new member, first post.
Be kind but do not hold back. Seeking seasoned professional advise
Pistol appears unfired but come on, surely it's had a few rounds in it at some point in the last 80+ years. The gentleman we purchased it from stated it was his Grandfathers weapon. He died in 1955 and claims it hasn't see the light day sense.

Hello Elroy
To make things a little more clear here, there are No S&W's that have left the factory that have not been shot. All S&W's are Test fired an average of Three times before they leave the factory to test Function and accuracy, Hence there are none that have not been fired. In looking at your excellent close up pictures in the First one I do see "some lead" around the base of the forcing cone where it meet's the revolver's frame, Indicating to me it has been fired more times than it's factory Test firing. I would say shoot it and enjoy it...

The Lack of Bluing on the end of the extractor is typical for a gun with that style extractor the factory left that Portion in the white....Hammerdown

hsguy · #53 08-25-2011, 09:13 AM

I would not shoot the gun. The only thing that distinguishes that gun from a run-of-the-mill shooter grade 1905 is the condition and if you shoot it and accumulate some wear or dings you have turned it into a shooter grade gun, not a high grade gun with some collector interest. You paid a bit of a collector premium for the gun so it would be wise to protect it. Shooter grade 1905's are common so pick one up if you want to shoot a gun of that era. Here is a dead mint 1905 I own and don't shoot but I do have several shooter grade guns I enjoy often.

kbm6893 · #54 08-25-2011, 10:07 AM

Buy another one cheap and shoot that one. I feel the same way about a model 19 I stumbled on a few months ago. Made in 1967 and the blueing is pristine. I fired maybe 30 rounds through it, 12 of them being 158 grain .357. Then I cleaned it and put it away. I doubt I will shoot it much. I have other .357's that I don't worry about as much. Yeah, we can't take them with us (although I MIGHT specify in my will that the model 19 be buried with me!), but we can pass them along to others who will apprciate them as much as we do.

therick · #55 08-25-2011, 11:04 AM

I don't think I'd shoot it. Looks like a Museum quality piece to me. I understand that they aren't particularly rare but try to find another one just like it in the same condition for any amount of money and I think you'd have a tough time.

10/22 · #56 08-25-2011, 11:20 AM

I've watched the dialog go on about shoot or don't shoot and it isn't that simple.
I live in Florida where heat and humidity play hell on tools, people and especially hand held things that are very complex, like revolvers.
Then there's the risk of damaging pristine grips that cannot be replaced. OK, get a shooter grip and remove them. Soon it begins to be more nerves about maintaining condition and fiddling about with a very rare piece, then it does the joy of shooting it.
If you simply must, take it out once and have fun, then clean it, polish it and admire it. Love shooting it? Get yourself a shooter grade, there are lots of K frames and lots with a much better sight picture than these early M&P's.
I won't shoot this one from 1919-1920...would you? It has a turn line, but that's about all.
10/22.

nightshade2x · #57 08-25-2011, 11:26 AM

That's just too nice to shoot in my book.

Save & preserve it.

Have fun and be safe.
Nightshade2x

Elroy · #58 09-02-2011, 12:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elroy

All numbers match but we have not removed the grips but we have no doubt they pencil match as well.

Should have known better. The grips are NOT pencil matched.

Really comes as no surprise as these were truly mass produced weapons. There are some light file marks in the wood at the top of both grips where they "key" into the frame. That's the limit of hand fitting on this example

firearmsunlimited · #59 09-02-2011, 01:24 AM

Bell Charter Oak Holsters · #60 09-02-2011, 08:42 AM

I vote to not shoot it. That revolver is simply pristine and any collector of M&P's would be delighted to own it, no doubt. I have not seen many M&P's of that period in such superb overall condition. Great score, congratulations!

Cheers;
Lefty

Elroy · #61 09-02-2011, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by oldflatfoot

That revolver is simply pristine and any collector of M&P's would be delighted to own it

I'm no collector but I can assure you I'm the one who's delighted.

Obviously this is THE knowledge base for S&W and we have a few questions if you please. After removing the grips we noted these "hallmarks" placed around the grip dowel pin and was wondering if there was any significance to these marks

And the other side

Maybe Jim and Jack Smith assembled this piece

Comments please

JSR III · #62 09-02-2011, 05:55 PM

As a collector first and a shooter second, I would have to agree with those that say DON'T SHOOT IT. There are plenty of M&P's that are in less condition and that can be had for less money out there to shoot. Finding one in this condition, and there are few that are, deserves to be maintained for future generations to enjoy. Believe me, there are more than a few keyboards out there with drool on them.

Yes, every S&W is test fired but most collectors consider that part of the manufacturering process and do not think that test firing devalues the gun. Taking it to the range and putting a few down the pipe is a different story to a collector.

If someone doesn't appreciate the gun for what it is, in the condition it is in, why not sell the gun to someone that does and use the money to purchase a shooter and several boxes of ammo. Now two gun owners are happy, the collector and the shooter.

I have 3 or 4 1905 4th changes in my collection but I would purchase that gun from you in a cocaine heartbeat.

Magnumdood · #63 09-02-2011, 10:42 PM

Someone noted that they were a collector first and a shooter second. I had never heard it put that way. I can't see owning a gun and not shooting it. I'm a shooter...period. Shoot it.

Titegroups · #64 09-02-2011, 10:46 PM

Will be the most expensive rounds you ever fire.

JSR III · #65 09-03-2011, 08:33 PM

Forgot to answer your most recent question, the marks around the stock pin are fitter and inspector marks. Have nothing to do with the gun other than internal factory notations. If the left frame has a date like 3 40 or 3.40 it means that the gun was back at the factory for some major work in March of 1940. Typically that means a new barrel or a refinish or something along those lines.

Elroy · #66 11-25-2011, 02:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JSR III

As a collector first and a shooter second, I would have to agree with those that say DON'T SHOOT IT. There are plenty of M&P's that are in less condition and that can be had for less money out there to shoot.

I followed this advise and picked up this 10-6 in excellent condition.

It too is simply minty

It makes a nice mate to the 1905