I wrote S&W about possibly obtaining a copy of an owners manual for my old gun, but they informed me that they never produced one for it. They told me that the operating instructions were printed on the inside top cover of the shipping box. Would it be possible to find a copy or a picture of this on the internet that I could add to my records?

Any help will be greatly apprecited.

Welcome to the Forum.

I can't help you with the box, but I love .32-20s. If you post the serial number, or most of it (ex: 123xx), we can probably narrow down the shipping date.

Is yours blue or nickel? Barrel length? Type of sights? What type of grips?

Pictures would be nice too.

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John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

During WWII my grandmother (while working as a security guard at Boeing Aircraft in Seattle) shot a man with her privately purchased .32-20 revolver. Needless to say, I've always had a soft spot for .32-20s.

the serial number is 128532. i assume it was blue, but it was ruined by someone who painted over it. and it has wood grips. as far as the barrel length and type of sights, i'm not sure because i don't know much about guns.

i tried posting a pic file but it isn't working. it looks very much like the one on this page Guns For Sale - Revolvers For Sale - Smith & Wesson US Army Model 1917 .45 Revolver - Auction: 8974840 (Ended 01/28/2009, 11:54:43 PST)

This is a box for a 38 M&P. Same instructions would have been in the lid for a 32/20.
Here ya go-

Attached Images

	IMG_6538.jpg (52.8 KB, 137 views)
	IMG_6539.jpg (68.7 KB, 142 views)

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Paint might not have ruined it if it protected the finish from the elements.
Ed

Forgive me for laughing, Ed, but you are probably right. Get a cloth
wet with acetone, rub it on the gun, and that ought to take off the paint. It won't hurt the finish.

Mike Priwer

Thanks for the advice, I may have to try that! Knowing my poor grandfather though, it may have been rusted quite a bit. Would wiping it down with acetone bring it back to it's natural aged look? And would this possibly be able to restore any of it's lost value?

P.S. The wood grips on the butt have overspray; will this come off as well?

Would you happen to know where I could find a blown up view of my gun; possibly with a list of the parts?

Don't get acetone on grips or it will remove the finish down to bare wood! Try a little paint thinner or mineral spirits(same thing)on them. The acetone will pull any paint off and then you can access finish. If rusty, use something like CLP and maybe brass wool or a very light touch with 0000 steel wool. Do not try to work it beyond surface rust or you will end up with a gun in the white, with no finish. Then all natural character is lost. Good luck.
10/22.

The acetone will remove the piant, exposing whatever is under the
paint. As noted above, you can deal with rust by spraying it
with Corrosion-X, or WD-40, or Kroils, or any other rust penetrant.
Let is soak a while, and then while it's still good and wet, rub it with
0000 steel wool - not too hard. You want to remove the rust, not
what whatever finish is under it. You can use elbow grease, but don't
think of it as a badly-burned frying pan !

Mike Priwer

I tried using a rag with acetone....no luck. so then i gently rubbed it with steel wool. there is no blueing underneath, it's down to the bare metal. looks like i'll have to get it re-blued.

Go to this thread for many fine photos of 32-20s and your bound to find one in the same configuration of your gun:
The .32-20 Hand Ejector Thread

32-20s were built on the K frame or medium frame size. I would still take all the paint off but not jump to refinish it. Once you do you've destroyed any originallity of your family heirloom and unless it's an expert refinish (read that expensive), it could end up worse. The original markings and factory polish lines can be lost! And it will lose all of it's vintage character. Even in the white (bare metal) it's more desireable as a family gun.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Looking at the photos and comparing them to my gun, it looks to be an exact match with the first photo.

Rather than rub the whole gun with steel wool, I would try soaking in acetone overnite and see if it'll come off with just a rag.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Any idea where I could find a blown-up view of the gun with a list of the components?

This is pretty close:

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Schemati...+%26+Police+(*)

Your hammer block may be different though.

__________________
John 3:16
WAR EAGLE!

Great; thanks.

I made a previous post about my gun. I hope that it answers your questions about it.