I see an extractor what I don't see is a cylinder and crane. Do you have those parts as well? does anyone know if a 1902 cylinder and crane would fit a 1899?
I believe you have identified your revolver correctly. It's a big plus that it's a martial S&W (just 1,000 were contracted for by the Navy),so it's well worth preserving. I'd strongly advise having the repair done properly and it will then command a substantial premium over an ordinary commercial 1899. It's also worth noting that the caliber on these is supposed to have been .38 Long Colt, not .38 Special as is usual with the civilian version.
Possibly your best bet would be to contact David Chicione, "Old West Gunsmith", he is located if I remember correctly in Gastonia, North Carolina. He is an outstanding gunsmith/restoration specialist.
I emailed him over the weekend, I am in NC and only an hour drive from him, he said he could not help and gave me a number for Jacks First, I called them and they said they did not have the parts.
One more place to try is Poppert's Gun Parts in Pennsylvania.
Forgive my lack of understanding, but I see the ejector rod tip, the ejector star, and what I think is the ejector rod. I understand the center pin is missing, and perhaps the spring, but I don't know what you mean when you say you need an extractor.
I mean ejector, It is broken I have the center pin but the tip is broken off. the ejector star is broken off .
I just may have what you need. But we'll have to compare dimensions. Do you have the broken off pieces so we can get an approximation of the correct lengths? I think you need two springs as well. It would be helpful if someone on the forum with a complete gun could show us a photo of all the parts in an unbroken state including the springs. I have 125 ejector rods and pins and there are several variations!!
Hondo, I do have the parts and will measure them today when I get home. I can also try to take some closeups of the parts. I do have both springs. thanks for the reply
Ok thanks, good job. I've made copies and will take out to the shop in the morning and try to match up pieces. Does the model '99 have a long skinny center locking pin?
The short piece .883" long appears to have a ball tip that's broken off I don't recognize as something I have.
Is the photo of what looks like a check ball the end of the .883" piece above?
Well I couldn't wait so just checked what I have. Sorry, I do not have the correct ejector star. I do have the 2.384" piece of ejector rod that the knob threads into if yours is not satisfactory.
Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
P.S. Emailed you more parts vendors to check.
__________________
Jim
S&WCA #819
Last edited by Hondo44; 11-18-2011 at 12:54 AM.
Reason: Added P.S.
I didn't see anyone mention it so I will. Numerich might have what you are looking for. They a lot of M&P parts as well as some lightly used earlier 1899 and 1902 parts.
Lee
All that is wrong is that the end is broken off the short center pin.
Nothing else looks wrong, to me. I assume that the only problem
is that the cylinder will not stay in the closed position ? The
extractor looks fine, to me.
I have all these parts, that I sell from time to time.
Email me a good picture of that short center pin, and tell me if
anything else is wrong. You ought to be able to hold the cylinder
closed with your fingers, while you run it through single action
with the other hand. Does all that work normally ?
Mike, I super glued the extractor so I could measure it. The star is broken off the shaft. I will send better pic of the center pin. I also have a 1902 First change or 1899 Second model. Not sure what nomenclature is correct. The center pin on it won't engage. Was gong to start that thread after working on this revolver. Both these weapons were given to me by my father. Someone gave them to him 60 years ago. He was going to make bookends out of them. Not sure if they were both in-op at the time. He cannot remember the specifics. Can I use the extractor from the second model to test the First Model?
The extractors are the same between the 1899 and the 1902
no change. The 1902 1st change is different.
The 1899 is the only model with that short center pin . The 1902 has
the lug under the barrel, and as part of that redesign, it has a full
length center pin.
It sounds like you need at last two parts - the extractor and the
short center pin ? Is anything else missing or broken ?
Is there supposed to be a spring that is supposed to go behind the center pin? If so I don't have it. I also noticed that the Cylinder fits very tight on the yoke. It will not spin freely. Not sure what that means.
The short centerpin sits inside, and at the bottom of, the extractor
tube. A skinny spring then sits on top of the short center pin. A
longer coil spring its around the outisde of the extractor tube, and
all that is held in place by the ejector rod, which is screwed into
the ejector tube. A correct short center pin will then project through
the bottom of the extractor star, and is what retains the cylinder in
the frame, when the cylinder is closed. All of that will slide into
the yoke, and then the ejector nob screws into the end of the ejector
rod.
With all of that mechanism out, and just the cylinder on the yoke,
it should indeed spin freely. If it does not, first thing is to make sure
the bore of the cylinder, and the surface of the yoke, is clean, and
free of dried oil and grease. When clean, and it does not spin freely
without the ejector components, then something is damaged. Either
the yoke shaft is bent, or the bore of the cylinder is damaged.
If it does spin freely without the ejector assembly, but drags when the
ejector parts are put back, then probably that solid ejector rod is bent.
Both the yoke (on the cross arm) and the cylinder (on the rear face)
should have the serial number of the butt of the gun. If they do
not, then maybe some parts have been swapped with some other
1899, and never fitted properly. Like, maybe you have a 1902 yoke.
Mike Priwer
Last edited by mikepriwer; 11-20-2011 at 01:58 PM.
Mike, the serial and assembly numbers match on all the parts.
I definitely need the center pin and spring and the extractor.
The cylinder acts like it is gummed up on the yoke, It could be there is still some old lubricant in there, boy is is like tarnish. Any hints on the best way to remove it?
Get some Xylene , and soak the yoke and cyinder in it. Then scrub the
outer surface of the yoke with a (tooth)brush soaked in the xylene,
and clean the center bore of the cylinder with a bronze brush wet
with the xylene. Dry it off, put a drop of clean oil on on the yoke shaft,
put on the cylinder, and see what happens.
Now - do the next test. Reassemble the extractor without the short
center pin, put it on the yoke, put the nob on the end of the extractor
rod, put the yoke back in the frame,and close the cylinder.
Without the center pin, the cylinder will not stay in place. Lay the gun
across your right-hand fingers, so that they can keep the cylinder
closed. Single-action the gun with your left hand. The cylinder
should advance one charge-hole at a time, and come into timing
lockup.
If all that works, then all you need is the short center pin, and its
spring.