I may have found something so I figured I'd ask you all here before I do anything. I came across the pictured triple lock 44 special for sale. The SN is 75XX. I don't yet have a triple lock and I've always wanted one. Its nickel, which is more rare, and worth a premium I suspect, but I'm not esp wild about the condition. The asking price is $1300, but I think he may hear an offer.

What year was this one made? How rare is nickel on these?

Is this worth considering or should I keep looking?

I'm thinking (often a mistake) the gun has too much wear to be in the price range you've quoted. I'm guessing a good price would be half that much. Remember, that's just my opinion. But I have no idea why you want the gun. Mine is a 4" and I can actually carry it. Its in my 4" 44 rotation.

If you're buying it to shoot, it might do that function well. Its past the point where its a pretty face. It will always be a mechanical marvel. My suggestion would be to offer significantly less, or keep on looking. If you're only going to own one T/L, it probably should be a nice one. If you are willing to accept a lesser gun, it should be cheaper, too.

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Dick Burg

It appears to be the original finish, original grips, and original bbl length...all good things! Does the cylinder lock up tight on all 6 cylinders? Does the bore look fairly good? If so, that sounds to me like a reasonable price assuming it is a 44 Special.

I don't know squat from values but if the bore and cylinders are good I think you should buy it if you want it. They just ain't making no more of them, ever.

I've looked at that one myself, only in pix. The company used to have very good proces on S&W then went over the top, IMO. I've got a second model in a bit better condition and as much as I would like a triple lock...
As I remember, that is the worst side, but there is always something that doesn't show in the photos; good and bad.
They might come down and I figured it might be worth $900?
Best of luck...
My Second Model, just for perspective.

I don't think the grips are right for that TL. I don't think they fit
right, and their condition is inconsistent with the condition of the
gun.

Something about the nickel itself doesn't look right . I'd try to find
out what the original finish was.

I agree with Dick Burgs comments. If you are going to own only one
TL, it ought not to be this one. Its not good enough.

Mike Priwer

Keep looking and save your cash....





True, I did pay more than $1300 for this one, closer to twice that, but in truth, the money didn't mean as much to me as the pride of owning a fine example.









Hang in there... they are out there. Keep looking and stay solvent.



Drew

I'm with most of the others. If you are going to have only one TL, shop for a good one. Nickel guns are a challenge, because X amount of wear on a shiny gun will always look worse than the same wear on a blue one.

On the other hand, if you don't mind the appearance and just want a TL shooter, then this one would fill the bill -- at a price lower than the one being asked.

I agree there is a problem with the stocks. If I were looking at this gun, I would not be a buyer over a thousand. I would be a likelier buyer the further below a thousand the price dropped.

The earliest dated gun with a nearby serial number shipped in 1912. This one could have shipped about then or up to a couple of years later; you'd have to letter it to be sure.

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David Wilson

I would keep looking, you can do better on both finish and price. I found this one a year ago last month. A target with no stocks. My son had the Sanderson stocks. $700, yes refinished but it's purdy. Pictures make it look plum colored in some areas but it's not.





It came out of an estate and the seller was selling it for the widow. Obviously a reblue and not a factory reblue. But no rounded corners and clear barrel markings, although not picked up in photos. Serial number 2702 and all matching. Gold tipped factory front blade, very tight with a breaking glass let off and old world silky smooth action. I already have one TL Target and didn't want to over pay for what is a shooter.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

I got one couple years ago about the same nickel-wise but with pearl grips, near perfect bore. Dealer priced it at $1300, we did a trade. An hour with Flitz can do a lot for tired looking nickel. If this one has a nice bore I don't see $1300 a bad price, not a bargain but on the upper end of reasonable. I have bought 3 TLs in the last year, $900-1100, all re-nickel. On high end 1100 re-nickel by S&W in '67, VGE bore, apparently never fired since; the 900 showing wear and not as nice bore, both with non-original grips. I did sell the grips for $200, one like-new magnas , the other some special kind of Herritts. The third TL I sent back as bore too bad and too heavily buffed. A parting thought -- ,44 Special TLs with any amount of original finish are a scarce article, unless you get into the British .455s..

I would have to agree with most of the responders so far. The condition is a little too far gone for that price IMHO. I also agree with what Mike said, the stocks look shiney and too nice for the guns condition. I would be suspect that they are not numbered to the gun. If they are, it looks like someone worked on them.

I too would feel better at $1,000 or less.

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James Redfield
LM #497

I bought a 4” Nickel Triple Lock (scarce) in about that condition.
It was my only TL.
I bought it for my collection and to shoot and carry.
I hated that gun. The condition drove me nuts.

Just my experience.

Emory

The current hard fact is that even in this Depression, it is hard to make ANY TL wearing that much ORIGINAL finish worth less than $1000.

The nickel looks original. Nickel is not rare on TL's, but it is less common than blue on the 6-1/2's in my observation, and probably about 50/50 on the shorter barrels.
This is very true. Flitz will also remove some of the browning from the bare spots, making them blend better, which greatly improves the overall appearance. A product called Bullfrog rust remover is also safe on nickel (NOT on BLUE guns!!!) and can sometimes help make the brown areas "white".

Grips-
Maybe that is oil and grease, maybe they have had a coat of Tru-Oil added. No big deal either way since they were not sanded. Acetone "covers a multitude of sins".
Original? Maybe, maybe not. I see that the left is a micro short, so maybe not. BUT- I can state positively that VERY occasionally, orig grips SHRINK, and show some frame. I can only surmise that the wood was swollen from moisture or heat or both, and later shrunk. I have seen this a very few times on grips that were positively orig without doubt.

Now, we come to the important questions already asked-
Bore and action condition????
If that bore is very good(don't expect mint), and the action is tight and solid, the asking price is a reasonable starting point. CLEANED up, with a decent bore and an excellent action, the gun will bring 1000-1300 if that good overall (one pic is not the whole picture). You can wait for a better gun as advised- depends on how old you are! You might die waiting. MANY old TL's are now refinished. The current trend of refinished guns being more acceptable MAY be adjusted as money tightens. Original finish guns will never be less acceptable in the market. Just the cold, hard truth.
So, haggle for the gun. If you get it, clean it judiciously to the highest state possible and enjoy owning one. Later, when all those "better guns for less money" come along, UPGRADE by buying one and sell this one.

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Regards,
Lee Jarrett

Just an observation about guns and their condition. Wood is much softer and more easily damaged than metal. Particularly plated metal. The original purchasers bought the nickel guns because they had a reputation for holding up better than the blue steel. But when you find a gun with some fairly serious or extensive metal damage, you can pretty well bet the wood is going to be in worse shape. Not always, but in the vast majority of cases, it will be.

With a T/L, the wood is not really the issue. I would guess from looking at the picture its not original to the gun. Nice gold medallion grips like the ones shown probably still increase the value of the package. Collectors probably aren't going to be real interested in the gun, so the wood is just a plus.

Prices are regional. In the area I live and haunt gun shows, its higher than I would expect. Guess Lee has better economic conditions than we have!

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Dick Burg

A couple of years ago a small dealer friend offered me an almost identical condition nickel TL for $1500. I offered him $1200 and he told me that was what he paid for it. I felt that $1200 was the top price it was worth...maybe over the top, so I declined.

To tell the rest of the story, that small dealer sold it for $1400 to a large dealer who has a very expensive (read over priced, if you wish) shop. It sat in that shop with a price of $1900 for over a year until it disappeared. I don't know how or where it went. This could easily be the same gun that someone has decided to move and "bite the bullet" on.

My friend RBurg is often a sage. My advice would be to go back and read the last two sentences of his first post.

Bob

Heh, heh...I agree with him and probably wouldn't own ANY 6 1/2" guns if I could always get 4"!

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Thanks for all the replies and guidance.

I think I'd buy it for $800, but I have no reason to think the seller would accept $800. Its an original finish TL as others have said, and despite the wear, it beats out any refinishes IMO.

For the record, I don't want to own 1 TL but since I try to be frugal with guns, I may end up only owning one since they're highly sought after. I'd like to own 10 or 20 or 50 lol but odds are, I will have a single digit amount of them.

Having just one TL wouldn't cut it for me, but I have to start somewhere.

I don't know how the given revolver is mechanically.

The same guy has a 1896 32 6in nickel for sale. 80 to 90% for $700, and I've been thinking about that one too, another must have in my book for my collection.
I never see them either, so I don't know how good of a deal that one is either.