Hi, Tim. I called around looking for a 10 shot 617 at the local pawn shops, but only came up with this. A model K22 with a broken spring is what they told me, for $400. I had read some about these, so went and looked at it. Neither the hammer or trigger would pull back. Short story, I walked out with it and the holster for $300. I know, some will say i'm nuts for paying that for a non working gun, but what the hay. Even if it's non repairable, I'll be getting another, since my wife thinks it'd be fun to go do some 22 shooting.

All the parts are numbered K 162371 I took off the grips and one of them has the same number. I thought I might find a broken mainspring, but no luck. I carefully removed the side plate, no parts fell out. Looking at the action, I couldn't see anything obviously wrong. Since I don't know what it should look like, I put the plate back on. It'll definitely be going to a good gunsmith shortly. Here's a couple of pics, since I know, a thread is no good w/o pictures.

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	K22 4in 012.jpg (115.4 KB, 248 views)
	K22 4in 014.jpg (82.0 KB, 260 views)

By the serial number it was made in 1952.
Since you didn't see a big pile of rust inside, it should be an easy fix, although parts are not that cheap anymore if they are needed.
Or you can leave it like that and you won't need ear protection.

I think you'll come out a lot better in the long run buying this one for $300 than if you paid $700 for a new 617.

Just a few tests.

Open the cylinder. Now pull the cylinder release back and hold it there, trying to cock the hammer. If it doesn't work, take the sideplate back off and look at the bottom rear of the hammer to see if the cylinder bolt is interfering with it. Not sure what else would prevent the hammer from cocking.

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Dick Burg

Man, i knew this was a great forum, but i wasn't expecting that quick of answers.

First, thanks moosedog, for narrowing down the DOB. I thought it was probably an early '50's model. Just didn't think
that early.

The second thanks to rburg. That enabled everything to work. So what is it that is causing the cylinder release to keep hanging up the trigger/hammer? I'm guessing a weak/broke spring, maybe just like the pawn shop said.

I'm sorry, i posted so fast since i was thrilled just to get it to cock, i didn't say which fix i tried. I was able to just pull back on the cylinder release to get it to work, although it won't keep working without doing that. I haven't taken the side plate off again, just yet.

I think all the K frame action parts are pretty interchangeable. Like springs at least. The cylinder bolt has counteracting springs, just from memory. You've got one either dead or rusted or gummed up. To fix it you'll need to completely disassemble the action. Well, almost.

See if someone here will post a link to an exploded parts diagram. Numerich or one of the gun parts companies will probably have both springs (just go ahead and obtain both of them). Shipping will probably exceed the parts cost. The factory may even give you the springs if you call and can identify them. I don't think you'll need to remove the trigger (a blessing because it can be a pain.) Of if you don't feel competent, get the parts and take the gun to a gunsmith or such. Its not difficult, and probably half the members here can do it. Once you've done it, the gun will work like new.

Just from memory, you'll need to take the grips off, then the sideplate, then loosen the mainspring by loosening the screw in the bottom front of the grip frame. Work the spring out from its saddle on the hammer. Then using the same method you used to cock it, get it to about half cock (easy now there isn't spring pressure on it. It should lift out, and you can see how it engages the trigger. From there you need to flip it over and unscrew the thumb release from the bolt. You should then be able to lift the bolt out, one way or the other. You've got a plunger, I think. The springs should come out from there. A clean work area, good light, and a half an hour. It goes back the opposite as it came apart. Don't touch the rebound slide unless something gets in the way.

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Dick Burg

Why can't I ever find deals like that?!

Tim, let me know if you want your $300 back... Nice deal for sure! Happy New Year to you! Kyle

$300 isn't too bad I guess for an early-ish K-22 with a shortened barrel....

Actually, that's a pretty fair Pre-18 and I would have made that deal too...

I have one close to yours # K 162068, no XXX's, that was shipped 12-1952. You got a better deal as I paid a whopping $400 for this baby.As far as the reference to the M617, my 4" no dash M617 will shoot circles around this 1952 vintage K22 Combat Masterpiece. Big Larry

Timsfire,

Sounds like one of two things. Either the center pin spring is missing/collapsed, or the yoke is sprung. The center pin spring pushes the center pin back into engagement with the center hole in the breech face and has to be heavy enough to over-power the bolt spring.

Open the cylinder and see if the center pin sticks out of the center of the extractor. If it doesn't, the spring is probably missing. There should be fairly stiff resistance to trying to push the center pin into the extractor. If this checks out then the yoke is probably sprung enough to keep the end of the center pin from entering its hole in the breech. Either this or a weak/missing center pin spring would be what is not pushing the bolt back so its rear leg clears the hammer.

The other possibility if the center pin does not move freely (except for spring pressure) is that either the center pin or extractor rod are bent enough to cause severe dragging of the pin inside the extractor and extractor rod.

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Gunsmithing since 1961

With the cylinder closed, if you can push the thumbpiece back all the
way, and the revolver will cycle, then the problem is not with the
bolt (attached to the thumbpiece). With the cylinder closed, the
thumbpiece is suppossed to be in it most-rearward position, which is
what unlocks the hammer and trigger.

If there is rearward movement via the thumbpiece, with the cylinder
closed, then the problem is with the cylinder center pin, as someone
suggested. Its what pushes the bolt rearward, when the cylinder is
closed. If its dirty, or sticky, or has a broken spring ( all of this inside
the cylinder ), then its most likely the cause of the problem.

If this is the problem, you can observe it further via the locking pin
in the lug under the barrel. With the cylinder open, that pin is pretty
much all the way into the lug - very little of it sticks out in the front
of the lug. With the cylinder closed, and the thumbpiece pushed all
the way forward, the locking pin sticks out the most. With the
thumbpiece all the way to the rear, that pin should return most, or all,
of the way back into the lug. If it does not, then that means that the
center pin ( in the cylinder) is sticking, or bent, or missing its spring.

Taking the cylinder apart will shed some light on what might be wrong.

Mike Priwer

Thanks to all for things to check into. It is missing the center pin spring. I went ahead and pulled the side plate again, and did what rburg said as far as disassembly. It came apart without any problems. Once i studied what was happening or more importantly wasn't happening, i cleaned everything, except the trigger assy. I didn't want to venture that far yet. When i took the cylinder assy apart, that's when i saw the spring was missing. I'll have to get one each ordered.

Sounds like i lucked into this one from what i'm reading. This is my first handgun to own, and i've never fired one before. I've only shot rifles and shotguns. Big Larry, yours looks to be in better shape than mine.

I dont know DIY gunsmithing makes me kinda nervious, it might be best for both you and the gun if you take it to a good gunsmith that you trust if that replacement part doesnt do the trick.

and dont send it back to the factory if you can help it as they mark the gun when you do that.

but if it does you just got one hell of a bargain, kinda like that porsche resto I remember reading about where after all of that work of restoring a 60's/70's 911 to a 100% the damn thing wouldnt start and the owner sold it out of frustration for half its value and no where near the cost of restoring it and then a new owner later and a replaced fuel line and it was working a 100% again.

and then he looked under the sills and found out it was one of the rare factory rally raced 911's.

I am definitely going to get it to a gunsmith before i fire it. I want to make sure it's in great working order. Since i've never owned one before, i'm not about to think, hey I looked at a couple of schematics, and now I can fix guns. Even if the missing spring is all that's wrong with it, at least i'll know someone with way more knowledge than i'll ever have, has checked it out. I should've mentioned before that I was going to do that. I figured worst case would've been, i take it apart, can't get it back together, and i bring a box of parts to the gunsmith. But i did get to together without any forcing or prying of parts, which is always good in the long run. Of course, then there's the fact that my wife said i couldn't fire it until it went to a gunsmith. She said something like wanting me back from the range in one piece w/o an exploded gun or some crazy talk like that. What's up with that anyways.

So thanks Kavinsky, and to all the others for the concern. I'm right there with you all as far as being safe.

If you're going to take it to a gunsmith, he may have the needed springs on hand. Check with him first before ordering any yourself.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

[QUOTE=Kavinsky;136268885]

and dont send it back to the factory if you can help it as they mark the gun when you do that.[quote]

S&W hasn't stamped or marked any gun that has been sent back for repairs since sometime in the 50's or early 60's that I know of.

Timsfire, when you get yours fixed, it will shoot as well as mine no matter what it looks like. I bought mine before I became a collector and have plans to upgrade. Good luck with it. Big Larry

[QUOTE=bgrafsr;136269483][QUOTE=Kavinsky;136268885]

and dont send it back to the factory if you can help it as they mark the gun when you do that.they did something, the guy at kittery who took the K22 that never worked right after being sent to the factory twice off of my hands at kittery knew immediately just from looking at something on the gun that it had been back to the factory and that was only a few years ago.

probably marked off the the serial number or something

and dont worry it wasnt one like yours timsfire, it was a post 1980 gun, damn thing was a piece of junk, never could fire all 6 so I sold it and bought a worn 1950's K22 that has always worked right even with a worn bit on it that needed to be replaced.

Well i dropped it off at a gunsmith. Should be back in a couple of weeks. I plan on getting several difft brands of ammo to what fires best. Then off to the range to see how it shoots. I'm sure i won't be disappointed.