Gents,

I'm new here and thought I'd see what the crowd thinks about my "new" Regulation Police .38 S&W - serial 8XXX (pics attached).

I got it from a local dealer through a gunbroker auction for $185 + tax. The dealer had it listed as a mystery gun because it sports a new 4" barrel that reads just ".38 S&W CTG"--other than that and the serial number, there are no other markings on the gun. Based on the serial number and lack of a Smith and Wesson logo, I can venture to guess that the gun (except for the barrel) is an early I-frame, most likely from the early 1920s.

So here is the question--I bought it as a shooter knowing the barrel was brand new (I like to take a small sidearm with me out in the field, in case my rifle jams and there is a black bear or wild dog coming my way) but thinking it was a .38 special, not a .38 S&W. It would seem that because of the new barrel there is no collector value to the gun, but because of the old/weak cartridge, it isn't much of a shooter either.

Because of it's handy size, I might just make a shooter out of the .38 S&W yet, I just have to learn to reload first.....

In the meantime, I'm thinking about working on the finish some--the barrel blueing is perfect, as is the cylinder (which is original, but appears to have been reblued), but the frame is original with very little color, though only minor pitting. Should I try (possibly in vain) to reblue the frame to match the new barrel? Send it out (though at what cost for a $185 gun) to get it professionally reblued or nickel plated?

It seems like for the cost of the gun and nickel plating, I could go out and buy a very nice original Regulation Police that could be a shooter and have collector value too. But then again, why would I do that, when for the same amount I could go get a newer model stainless .357?

It's a cool old gun. I'm going to keep it and shoot it. But big picture, what should the plan be?

Attached Images

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	DSC02314.jpg (123.9 KB, 256 views)

Jim, I would not spend any money on that gun, you will never recover a penny of it no matter how good the refinish. I think your plan to use it as a shooter is the most reasonable option. You will want to learn to reload as 38 SW ammo is quite pricey.

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John. SWCA #1586

I think you should just keep it as an enjoyable shooter until you don't enjoy it any more, then let it move on and put whatever money you get for it into the gun you really want. I would not put a single additional dollar in it, but if you wanted to experiment I don't see the harm in trying to clean up the frame and reblue it yourself as a learning experience.

Just FYI, the original gun shipped in 1917 or maybe early 1919. (The factory was pretty much given over to contract production of the U.S. Army Model of 1917 from late 1917 through 1918.) The barrel is from later than 1953, because it has characteristics of that era.

Don't let yourself be taken in by the "underpowered and wimpy .38 S&W" guff. That was a standard revolver cartridge for the British military for about half a century. I certainly wouldn't want to be hit by a .38 S&W bullet, and I doubt anybody else would either. What you can say about it is that it carries a lighter energy cargo than a .38 Special, but why should that particular round be your standard of comparison? Any round you care to name (leaving out the few at either end of the spectrum) will be less powerful than a lot of other rounds and more powerful than several others. The question is how effective a round is it in absolute terms, and my answer is, "effective enough." You have to make the bullet hit where it counts, but you have to do that with a .38 Special or any other cartridge too.

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David Wilson

I would try to duracoat the revolver. You can do it yourself. The cost is around $30 dollars. Its a spray kit. The duracoat will hide more than a blueing job. Since it is a shooter, the duracoat will make the revolver look better but cost far less than sending the revolver out to be reblued or nicked.
Good luck,
Howard

I would consider selling it and getting a .38 spl. Sounds like that's what you were looking for.

STOP!! Everybody is missing out on what a cool custom Regulation Police Revolver you have there! I may be wrong, but it appears that someone went to a lot of work to install a K-frame barrel on it (from a Victory Model??) As to finish, etc, since it's a custom piece already, it's your call... I'd see how it shoots and how I liked the way it handles before spending more money on it, but you are definitely into it very right. Also, as DCW states, comments disparaging the .38 S&W round as wimpy are guff. It's not a .44 Mag, but you wouldn't want to cut loose with a magnum round from that little package.

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on a neat find. You've joined the group with a flourish!

Froggie

Froggie, if I'm reading the OP correctly, the barrel is marked .38 S&W, not .38 S&W SPECIAL. I'm pretty sure it's just a four inch Model of 1953 I-frame heavy barrel. I don't think a K-barrel could be made to fit on an I-frame revolver because of the thread diameter modifications that would be required, not to mention the ejector rod alignment issue with the locking lug on the barrel from the larger gun.

Thanks for the air support on the .38 S&W question. Regardless of what ballistics tables and gelatin tests may show, every time I light off one of those rounds in a Victory, .38 RP or breaktop .38 Safety, the recoil lets me know it is not a trivial round.

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David Wilson

OK, I was looking at it wrong... and you're right as usual, David. But I still maintain that this gun was built up specially by somebody and has the potential of making a great little carry piece... for woods walking or as a CCW. And other than the initial expenditure for dies, moulds and brass, the .38 S&W round will present no more reloading difficulties than .38 Spl or .32 S&W Long.

Froggie

Welcome to the forum with your 1st post! Nice old gun, the grips look original, are in great shape and probably serial numbered to the frame on the back of the right grip. Those medallions are genuine gold plated. And the filth can cleaned gently to bring back the original luster.

That little gun just may grow on you, they are a lotta fun. "I'm going to keep it and shoot it." is my attitude as well. I wouldn't spend more than $6 to get a jar of Oxpho blue paste or Wheeler Premier cold blue kit, both from Brownell's. If you have the aptitude and patience for preparing the frame properly that gun could look almost new.

It's well worth a little labor since the collector value as you said is gone and hardly had any even with the original barrel anyway, with so much finish missing. So might as well give it a nice blue finish for next to nothing in cost. The Wheeler kit comes with a rust and blue stripper which will reduce the prep time and labor a whole bunch. But don't waste time with any other cold blues. Do not blue the hammer and trigger, they did not come blued from the factory.

Did you look for a re-work date on the grip frame under the left grip panel and is there a star in front of the serial number on the butt? You always want to check for the replacements parts having being installed at the factory.

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Jim
S&WCA #819

Gentleman,

Thanks for taking a look and sharing your thoughts. The barrel is definitely a custom job, no factory rework marks--really no marks at all except for the serial on the frame and cylinder, the patent date on the grips (next to a lightly scralled set of initials) and the markings on the barrel.

I've reblued several rifles and shotguns over the years, so I think that is the route to take. The frame will likely never quite match the barrel or cylinder (even with a complete strip and reblue) but if it's going to be a shooter, I can live with it. I'd think about gunkote, but it seems like sacrilege to spray coat a gun this old.

I've got other revolvers (including a 4" pinned heavy barrel 10-6) that I can carry (weighs twice as much as the I-frame) so the cartridge and usefulness of the gun question isn't really one of keep this gun or buy another, it's really one of, is this light weight and handy-sized cool old gun worth messing with as a shooter (considering the reloading/ammo cost), which it sounds from several folks' responses that it is.

I'm going to try a cheapie blue job and see if I can get it to pop off a few rounds, as was its builder's intent.

[QUOTE=
Don't let yourself be taken in by the "underpowered and wimpy .38 S&W" guff. That was a standard revolver cartridge for the British military for about half a century. I certainly wouldn't want to be hit by a .38 S&W bullet, and I doubt anybody else would either. What you can say about it is that it carries a lighter energy cargo than a .38 Special, but why should that particular round be your standard of comparison? Any round you care to name (leaving out the few at either end of the spectrum) will be less powerful than a lot of other rounds and more powerful than several others. The question is how effective a round is it in absolute terms, and my answer is, "effective enough." You have to make the bullet hit where it counts, but you have to do that with a .38 Special or any other cartridge too.[/QUOTE]

Very true--though it's no lion tamer, considering the pistol is about the size of your average 22 mag, the .38 s&w is a decently sized round for a pistol of this light weight.