Please bear with me as I am new here and unsure if I am posting in the right place or with the right info. Anyway I just recieved a 1952 S&W 357 Magnum. I have looked at other sites and am pasting in a response from FiringLine.com I need to know what the worth of this gun is and if any changes to its original condition takes away from its value. It was bought new in 1952 by my father to shoot sharks (he was a commercial fisherman), probably only has had around 20rds through it and talking with my dad only 38loads and no 357loads. It was kinda gummed up from sitting in the holster for the past 40 yrs but everything cleaned up and the bore is clean and bright, trigger works great, etc. It does have some rub marks on the gun. Talking with S&W the blueing process has changed quite a bit since 1952 and if I had them redo the blueing it would be different. I need to know should I leave the gun as is or if I did have S&W reblue it does that take away or increase the value. Thanks in advance for your expert opinion. Kirk

Your gun is a .357 Magnum built in late 1952 to early 1953. ".357 Magnum" is actually the name of the gun; pre-1957 Smith & Wesson swing-out cylinder revolvers had names, not model numbers, and the N frame version was simply named after the cartridge. (The contemporary K frame .357 was called the .357 Combat Magnum, later Model 19, and the later L frame Model 586 was called the .357 Distinguished Combat Magnum.) Collectors refer to your gun as the "pre-Model 27" because it was called the Model 27 after 1957.

The gun is not exactly identical to a 1937 .357 Magnum. Since it is early 50s vintage, it should have a sliding hammer block rather than the earlier pivoting block, the "4 lines" frame inscription ("MARCAS REGISTRADAS" etc.) rather than the simpler "MADE IN U.S.A." inscription, and "short action" lockwork with a shorter hammer throw versus the earlier "long action" lockwork. Short action hammer spurs are positioned lower on the hammer than the earlier long action hammer spurs, and are generally wider with deeper checkering.

These guns are quite uncommon and command higher values than the later model-numbered versions. Depending on the extend of the finish wear, I'd put the value somewhere in the $1,000-$1,500 range. Add $100-$150 if you have the original box and paperwork, and another $150-$200 if it has original numbers-matching wood "Target" stocks that enclose the butt and frontstrap of the grip frame.

Target stocks from this era are quite valuable because thay have a slight palmswell, giving them a slight "Coke bottle" profile when viewed from the back; hence, collectors call them "Coke bottle stocks" or simply "cokes". Later versions lack the palmswell and are worth a lot less. If the stocks are original, they should have the numerical portion of the serial number stamped inside the right-hand panel.

The opinion given below your question is pretty much on target, including the pricing. However condition does make a big difference. It's very doubtful that S&W would even do a reblue on something this old. Many other gunshops will do bluing, but it will cost $200-300. And it will not increase the value of your gun, only (maybe) make it look a little better. Most (including me) will advise you to clean it up as best you can and shoot it as-is.

Welcome to the Forum! Most will advise to leave it as-is. Reblueing, even by the factory does not add to the value of the gun, unless it is pretty trashed to begin with. The wear to yours sounds pretty minor. Consider it as having "character".

Pictures! We like Pictures!

Todd

That is what I would like to do (cleaning up as best as possible), but want to use the gun not just let it sit in the safe. Plan to pass it down to my son when the time is right. Anything I should pay close attention to given the age of the gun? Thank You for your reply, Kirk

Todd,
Thanks much for your reply and comments. I will take some pictures tommorrow and post them. Thanks again, Kirk

kpallan
First - welcome to the Forum!
A .357 Magnum from 1952 is a wonderful gun to own, and the fact that it has been in the family since it was new makes it priceless to you.
Whoever gave you the information you cited in your original post had most things right. On the stocks, however, he may be off a bit.
I'm not sure when N frame target stocks became available, but I know that my .357 Magnum that letters to May, 1952 came with Magna stocks and I rather think N targets came along after that - someone else here will know for sure. I'm pretty sure that targets were available for the K frame before they were offered on the N frame revolvers.

Moreover, it was uncommon for target stocks to be numbered to the gun. Magnas certainly were during the early 1950s.

Also, I am also quite sure the "coke" stocks were not yet available in 1952.

In any case, this all may be moot, depending on what stocks are actually on your gun. I don't think your post told us what they were. I'm guessing they are of the Magna style.

I hope that this information is helpful to you.

If anything I've written is inaccurate, I'm sure someone here will correct me.

Jack

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

I see JP@AK may type a little faster than me, but we are in agreement.

Most of that info from TFL is good. Some people at the TFL know their S&Ws. The info below however is mostly incorrect.

Those target grips, which enclose the front strap and butt were very rarely ever serial numbered to the gun because they required less hand fitting. I've read on the forum that some early model 1950 44 spl or 45 acp target revolvers may have had serial numbered target stocks, but I have yet to see any other evidence of this phenomenon. A 357 of your vintage would surely not have serial numbered target grips. If it had targets, they would not be SN'd to the gun. However, magna stocks, which reveal the frame completely, would be numbered to the gun. This is because they were hand fitted to the frame.

Your gun is too early to have actual coke bottle grips. It instead would have diamond unrelieved targets, if the grips were original. Here is a photo of my 357 mag with the target grips of the era, diamond unrelieved targets.

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}-----Jim----->
~SWCA #2732~

Guns of that era have a reputation of being very well put together. It is stong enough to last forever, unless subjected to a sever overloaded cartridge. Standard ammo will not hurt it. As long as it is cleaned after shooting and kept out of damp weather, it should not deteriorate at all. One caveat, however, is that it is a 60 year old gun and some parts may be hard to come by. Take good care of it and you can enjoy it for a very long time.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Thanks Goring's S&W! But I see I erred on at least one point. I knew the cokes came along later, but it seems that N target stocks were available in the early 1950s, from what you have written.

Can you give me a rough chronology on the targets? Did the K targets appear before the N targets? And when did the unrelieved targets first ship for each of the two frame sizes? I know the football stocks came along in the mid-50s, right?

Thanks again.
Jack

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

Just for the fun of it, here are some pictures of my .357 Magnum that letters to May, 1952. It is all original except for the front sight, which has had a square gold bead added to the original Patridge front sight. 6 1/2" barrel. The sharp-shouldered Magna stocks number to the gun.



I had it on my table at the gun show last weekend. Lots of tire-kickers, but most guys came to buy black rifles!
Jack

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Jack
SWCA #2475, SWHF #318

IIRC, Taregt grips weren't available until around '54.

IF I'M NOT CORRECT, would someone please let me know by PM.
Thanks-Dan

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HIS Trains 'a LEAVIN

lot's of good info in this thread about stocks from the '52 era !

Thanks all for your input, learning quite a bit already about this pistol. Have attached some pictures for review. Finish may in spots be worse than first thought but only looks to be cosmetic. Should I just finish giving it a good cleaning and shoot it or would a refinish be worth it? Are the stocks rare and if so whould I put on after market grips to preserve the stocks or just go with all original? Thanks again for all your input and knowledge.

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kpallen: The stock are the correct vintage and look original. They should be number stamped on the inside of the right side grip panel. Do not let them get away.

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Living a dream - S&WCA #2364

Yes, the right grip has the number stamped on the inside. Are these the target grips or the magna grips others were saying? Thank You

Diamond magna stocks. Nice gun.

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Ash

Those are diamond Magnas

I definitely would not refinish it. Get some Bronze wool and gun oil and lightly wipe the rust spots off. I did that with one of mine and it worked great without scratching the bluing. The bronze wool is softer than the bluing. I then lightly cleaned it with Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish. Don't use much, the dark stuff you see on the rag is blue,too much and you'll ruin it. But like a vintage car with old paint, you can take a light coat off the top and it'll shine like a new one. BUT GO SLOW AND NOT TOO MUCH RUBBING!

That is a great gun the way it is. I thought I saw some corrosion, if so clean with corrosionX and bronze wool and just clean the rest of the gun. A refinish removes all the original finish and devalues the gun. Information gleaned here indicates Smith will not refinish non model marked guns. 50 year old plus guns will have some finish issues due to age. Most of us appreciate that and it allows us to shoot them with a clear conscious.

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Richard Gillespie
FBINA 102

Thanks to everyone, have followed the suggested opinions and cleaned it up, utilized the bronze wool and Mothers and the gun itself is looking good. I would like to preserve the grips as they are original to the gun. Looking at some aftermarket grips Hogue, Packmeyer, etc. Local dealer doesn't know which ones will fit. Does anyone know the item number for a after market set of grips so I can put those on when out shooting and hunting? Thanks in advance.

Nice honest gun! You will need N frame,square butt grips.I saw some on ebay.

Pachs or Hogues made for the N frame will fit. Smaller hands will do better with Hogues. Larger hands will prefer Pachmayr Presentations. Look on eBay - they are usually to be found there.