different markings and stampings under the grips.

MP1518

Member
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
1,185
Reaction score
605
I always notice different stampings and makings ( numbers and letters ) under the grips of most if not all S&W revolvers. Do they mean anything? Or just inspectors markings?
 
Register to hide this ad
They can mean any number of things depending on the gun. In my limited experience they could indicate everything from the date the gun went back to the factory, to what the factory did to it, to simply noting what cartridge the frame was intended to be fore when it was built.

Plus, there can be markings put on there by past owners.
 
For exemple: old , 1950's N frame with "S" and "4" a little lower under the grips on the frame. Or just a letter R or J on another one. Stuff like that.
 
Most are meaningless assembly or inspector marks. If there is a date, like (7.14) it would mean the revolver came back to the factory for some kind of work. If there is a "N", it means the gun left the factory as Nickle.
 
The "S" with a date mark can mean work done by the Service Department.The "4" means the Gun left the factory as a 44 Caliber.
 
I always notice different stampings and makings ( numbers and letters ) under the grips of most if not all S&W revolvers. Do they mean anything? Or just inspectors markings?

You probably had no idea what a question that was.....hope this helps:

Frame stampings - refinish/rework/other:
(Note: Almost any statements about S&W is presumed to be trends, and should not be taken as rules.)

'B' or 'N' stamp:
ahead of pre war serial # on the barrel flat (or in shroud), rear face of yoke and by itself on right side grip frame on commercial guns (only on left side grip frame post war) for an original Blue finish or for an original Nickel finish with that letter. The lack of either the 'B' or 'N' can indicate that it left the factory nickeled. Also there was a larger B behind the barrel serial # for the Bright blue optional finish in the post war era - early ‘50s when satin blue was standard.
“I've seen nickel Triple Locks with N stamps. I've seen them without it, too. Pre-war guns MAY have an N, or they may simply lack B's. The post war and the 1950s period, was one of much evolution. There was the usual transition when finish code letter stamps were dropped and frame code letter s/n prefixes began, when there were neither letter stamps on major parts (except the butt)." Lee Jarrett

Assembly (Work#s):
3 to 5 digits, are on the yoke, yoke cut in frame near the hinge and inside of the sideplate, pre war and early post war, changing to the yoke, left side of grip frame and inside sideplate after model #s were assigned. You know they are assembly #s because of those 3 locations that always match on guns that are original, and that’s the only usefulness for them after guns leave the factory.

Misc. single digit letter or number:
stamps in yoke and cylinder and/or grip frame either side are fitter stamps and inspector stamps in general. L on face of cylinder indicates left hand thread extractor rod.

Star by the serial #:
on the butt (bottom or left side of grip frame) indicating factory rework & rework dates declined by early ‘60s, eventually no marks and some say refinishing was discontinued for awhile. Currently they do refinish. The blue is blacker than previous factory finishes, some were not only unmarked on the gun but came with minimal paperwork to document the work.

Refinish/Rework Dates:
for a return to the factory are 3 or 4 digits depending on the actual date (sometimes 5 or 6) placed on left side of grip frame on the 'toe' stamped vertically or horizontally, and will not match any other stamped #s. Ex: 3.48 for March 1948, 10.2.57 for Oct 2, 1957, etc.
Sometimes letters in a rectangle or diamond, B (blue), N (nickel), or S (standard/blue) with an R (for refinish), on 'heel' of left side of grip frame.

Photo thx to Masterpiece.
standard.jpg


An S followed by diamond was one of the ways S&W indicated a refinish in S&W blue.
Usage of the star and the rework date stamp varies depending on the time period. So as you can see, this is not an exact science.

R stamp:
"The "R" [under barrel of a trans. Kit Gun for example] indicates an “in house” rework of the revolver [on a gun that never shipped and therefore would not have a date stamp as opposed to rework on a customer gun]. The gun was reconditioned probably after World War II before the factory could sell it." Roy Jinks

Diamonds/circles:
were stamped on replaced parts or heel of grip frame on left side for refinish followed by letters, sometimes in a rectangle or diamond, B (blue), N (nickel), or S (standard/blue) with an R (for refinish), on 'heel' of left side of grip frame. A circle under the barrel indicates that the barrel was replaced.


SebagoSon’s photo

Parts modified by the factory on a new gun like a shortened barrel BEFORE originally being shipped can have a diamond stamp sometimes with an S inside indicating service dept. work, but no rework date! There might also be marks like <S> (silver), <G> (gold), or a P (plated) with a circle.

A diamond can mean:
"Parts on Hand"- i.e. replacement parts sold out the door.
A part replaced by the factory.
I believe I have seen it applied to a barrel or two shortened at the factory. I think it can mean a gun that had service work done- just like the Star was used.

Service Dept. Refinish:
An S on the grip frame usually means 'Service Dept.' and was added when they fixed cosmetic or mechanical problems found on completed guns. S let the bluing dept. know that it needed to be returned to Service instead of the Fitters like the other ~200 barrels that they blued with it. Parts were blued in large batches.

Caliber code single digit number stamped on grip frame:
The normal side for the cal. code # is the left side. N frames.

357 Mag doesn't have a number code in my observation
38 special will have an 8
44 special has a 4
44 Mag has a 0
45 ACP has a 5
45 colt should have a number 7 on either side of the grip frame.

NOTE: This information is just rules of thumb and not at all meant to be an all inclusive list and often lack consistency (especially size of digits) like anything from S&W.
 
Last edited:
Refinish:
Sometimes letters in a rectangle or diamond, B (blue), N (nickel), or S (standard/blue) with an R (for refinish), on 'heel' of left side of grip frame.

Jim,

I'm reasonably certain the Stamp in the Photo I've attached is one of the styles you're referring to in the above quote...If So...You're more than welcome to include it in your excellent overview of the Factory Rework/Refinish Stamps!! This one...[R-N] in a Rectangle...Of course meaning a Revolver Refinished in Nickel for those that have never observed one before...Sorry I can't help with an example of the [R-B]&[R-S] Stamps!!

Very comprehensive overview for those not familiar with Factory Rework/Refinish Stamps...Fine Job As Usual!!

I'm also in agreement with Nicksterdemus...Your Overview is definitely deserving of a "Sticky"!!
 

Attachments

  • Refinish Mark 002.jpg
    Refinish Mark 002.jpg
    159.5 KB · Views: 110
Jim,

I'm reasonably certain the Stamp in the Photo I've attached is one of the styles you're referring to in the above quote...If So...You're more than welcome to include it in your excellent overview of the Factory Rework/Refinish Stamps!! This one...[R-N] in a Rectangle...Of course meaning a Revolver Refinished in Nickel for those that have never observed one before...Sorry I can't help with an example of the [R-B]&[R-S] Stamps!!

Very comprehensive overview for those not familiar with Factory Rework/Refinish Stamps...Fine Job As Usual!!

I'm also in agreement with Nicksterdemus...Your Overview is definitely deserving of a "Sticky"!!

Tracy,

Thank you, and thx for the great example. I don't seem to be able to include the photo since it's an attachment though????
 
I don't seem to be able to include the photo since it's an attachment though????
Jim,

I'm certainly not an expert how to accomplish it...Although I believe if you download the Attached Photo to your photo files first...You should be able to post it as you usually do...I think!! If not...And you care to include it...Let me know & I'll send the photo via email..That should work for certain!!
 
Apropos of all this, I have a Model 25-2 whose case insert is cut precisely for its extra .45 Colt cylinder, and the grip frame has both an E5 and an E7 stamped on the left lower portion of the frame.

If I recall correctly, Roy said it probably won't letter but thought that some may have left the factory that way.



Tim
 
Maybe so men, but I lived 20 miles from Springfield inmuid twenties and brought them some walk-in work a few times, including barrel length changes, finish changes, stock changes, hammer and trigger changes as well as sight changes. Maybe I wasn't paying attention, but I never saw any different markings on those revolvers as before I brought them in, and I considered myself an astute student of S&W in those days, but that was pre forum knowledge. I have learned so much here, many thanks to all the great and knowledgable contributors.
 
Back
Top