Combat Masterpiece

[Stephanie B]

"No dash" Model 15. K355XXX. The grips are original. The timing is a tad soft on two cylinders, but only if cocked at about the speed of continental drift. With a normal cocking effort, they all time OK. I'll get it looked at, anyway.

Matches my "no-dash" Model 10 quite nicely.

[scha]

Vintage 1959 -- very nice.

Steve

[BigBill]

I have to say next to my k22 my k38 combat masterpiece is one of the finest revolvers I own in 38 special. My k38 masterpiece target is next.

[Art Doc]

I think the CM is maybe my favorite K frame.

[shawn mccarver]

Stephanie B: I think you need item 30 (hand, oversize - the second #30 on the SKU page of the schematic) at this page, and a gunsmith who knows how to correct DCU.

K-Frame 15-4 | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

[DWalt]

There is also a video on YouTube that shows the procedure for fitting a new hand to correct timing problems. But I doubt it is actually necessary if the timing problem is no worse than you describe.

[Hondo44]

Stephanie,

One of my favorites as well!

I agree completely with DWalt.

There is no simpler fix on a S&W!
Peening the ratchet teeth to correct timing/cyl ‘follow up’:

Replacing the hand may fix your problem but the hand is not likely needed or at fault.
The flat surfaces of the teeth facing you in the photo are where to peen. The tooth at about 3 o'clock is the next to be engaged by the hand. The cylinder turns counterclockwise so the hand will engage the 'bottom side' of that tooth for the chamber at the top. The flat surface facing you is where to peen, right above the bottom side of the tooth. No need to take the gun apart at all.

Here's a photo of the cylinder & star:



You may not even see the metal deform and it can be enough to solve the problem. One light tap with a small light hammer and flat face punch then close the cylinder and try it. If the cylinder doesn't follows up or even if it does F/U but still has too much 'looseness' when fully cocked, give the tooth another tap. Might as well do all six teeth, they're all the same age. Rough handling/constant double action rapid fire can accelerate the teeth wear but it did not happen overnight, and now you have another 10 years of shooting before it'll need it again.

Perhaps you already know this and take your guns apart. These videos may also be of help if you haven't and ever do want to take your gun apart. Some of the commentary is a little bogus, but the main error is that the two screws indicated as identical, are not! The one that retains the yoke is 'fitted' and therefore specific to that location. Otherwise these are very helpful:

SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 SERVICE REVOLVER PART 1 - YouTube
Note: The part referred to in the video as the crane is actually the yoke in S&W terms. Crane is the Colt name for that part.
SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 SERVICE REVOLVER PART 1 - YouTube

Hope that helps

SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 PART 2 - YouTube
SMITH & WESSON MODEL 10 PART 2 - YouTube

Hope this helps,

[Stephanie B]

Originally Posted by shawn mccarver

Stephanie B: I think you need item 30 (hand, oversize - the second #30 on the SKU page of the schematic) at this page, and a gunsmith who knows how to correct DCU.

Shawn, Probably. The second item is a little harder to find, at least locally.

[Stephanie B]

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Stephanie,

One of my favorites as well!

I agree completely with DWalt.

There is no simpler fix on a S&W!
Peening the ratchet teeth to correct timing/cyl ‘follow up’:

Replacing the hand may fix your problem but the hand is not likely needed or at fault.

The flat surfaces of the teeth facing you in the photo are where to peen. The tooth at about 3 o'clock is the next to be engaged by the hand. The cylinder turns counterclockwise so the hand will engage the 'bottom side' of that tooth for the chamber at the top. The flat surface facing you is where to peen, right above the bottom side of the tooth. No need to take the gun apart at all.

I would be worse than a "shade-tree" gunsmith on that repair. (Think it was Clint Eastwood who said "a girl's gotta know her limitations".) Now, if I had a $125 Taurus 82 that I had bought from Skeevy & Sons Pawn and Feed, I might be tempted to try it. But me take a hammer to a 55 year old S&W? {Shudder}

[Mike, SC Hunter]

Originally Posted by Stephanie B

I would be worse than a "shade-tree" gunsmith on that repair. (Think it was Clint Eastwood who said "a girl's gotta know her limitations".) Now, if I had a $125 Taurus 82 that I had bought from Skeevy & Sons Pawn and Feed, I might be tempted to try it. But me take a hammer to a 55 year old S&W? {Shudder}

I've had to peen the hand on my Python twice in the 34 years I've owned it to bring it back into time.......Not a big deal.

[BigBill]

I put some moly paste/anti-seeze on the ratchet and arm on every revolver so wear won't occur.

I think the s&w combat masterpiece is one of the finest quality s&w revolvers ever made. I think they were assembled and fitted by there old world craftsman.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by Stephanie B

I would be worse than a "shade-tree" gunsmith on that repair. (Think it was Clint Eastwood who said "a girl's gotta know her limitations".) Now, if I had a $125 Taurus 82 that I had bought from Skeevy & Sons Pawn and Feed, I might be tempted to try it. But me take a hammer to a 55 year old S&W? {Shudder}

Stephanie,

I understand how you feel, but the first time any of us did something on our Smiths we felt the same way. Recognize we're talking about a 3 minute job here. "Peening" means light tapping not hammering. A small hammer will work fine. Imagine the satisfaction you'll feel after fixing your own gun.

[Stephanie B]

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Recognize we're talking about a 3 minute job here. "Peening" means light tapping not hammering. A small hammer will work fine. Imagine the satisfaction you'll feel after fixing your own gun.

The only steel hammer that I have is one fit for driving nails. I don't have a small one.

I know you guys mean well, but this isn't something I'm going to do.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by Stephanie B

The only steel hammer that I have is one fit for driving nails. I don't have a small one.

I know you guys mean well, but this isn't something I'm going to do.

I just hate to think of someone discharging a round when the chamber is not aligned with the barrel shooting double action (the hammer does not come back as far as when cocking the hammer manually for shooting single action, and so the cylinder does not advance as far). So the cyl notch is farther from locking up than in single action. And I hate to see anyone have to spend money when such a simple little tweaking can fix it.

Do you know someone that's mechanically inclined like your Sweety? A large hammer works fine holding it up close to the hammer head with a very gentle touch.

Everyone shies away from this at first but is amazed how easy it is once they try it. It's hard to do any damage to your gun, believe me. This is simpler than filing one's nails, I can assure you.

[Stephanie B]

A follow-up: I sent the gun to LSG Manufacturing, which is (as most of you know) a S&W warranty repair shop.

The timing being off was a symptom. Turns out that the yoke was bent out a tad. Not in the way that happens when some ignorant yahoo slams the cylinder in by flicking his wrist, but in the other direction. Once that's fixed, the timing may well come right back in.

(Repair is under way.)

[Hondo44]

Stephanie,

Thanks for the update!

Wow, that makes me very curious about how it happened. Unfortunately we couldn't diagnose that for you but glad
you thought to send it. And anxious to hear how it turns out. I'm sure it will be 1st class when you get it back.

[SDH]

Originally Posted by SaxonPig

I think the CM is maybe my favorite K frame.

That is something we agree on.

[Stephanie B]

Off to the range soon. My gut feeling is that a rear sight leaf with a wider aperture might be friendlier to my aging eyes. But I'll see.

[Stephanie B]

The gun has a trigger stop.



A S&W guru advised me that the factory, about forty years or so ago, advised that anyone who considered using a Combat Masterpiece for self-defense should remove the trigger stop. They have been known to work loose and prevent the gun from firing.

And so I did. But I'll save it regardless.