Model 1955?

CLK1 · #1 05-31-2015, 10:22 PM

Hello S&W members,

New member here hoping someone can help me identify my recent revolver acquisition.

I believed it to be a 1955 when I bought it but now not sure after searching the forums.

It is a 5 screw. On the barrel it reads 45 cal. Model 1955.

The serial number on the bottom of the frame, under the grip is 2009XX. I cannot see an S anywhere near that number which seems should be present on a 1955-56 model?

When I open the cylinder there are two non-matching 5 digit numbers, one on the crane and one on the frame...sorry not sure of exact wording here.

I've done some searching on this site and am questioning the serial number on this revolver now wondering if it's original(with the exception of the grips of course which are obviously not).

Hopefully photos load and I appreciate any input offered.

Thank you,

CLK

Art Doc · #2 05-31-2015, 10:28 PM

The gun appears to have built using a pre-war frame (likely a 1917) and a 1955 barrel. Adjustable sight added, refinished (not real well) with hammer and trigger jeweled for good measure. You can see that the barrel does not perfectly match the frame where they meet.

Not sure about the serial number. I hope the original number wasn't removed and a bogus number stamped on it as this makes the gun illegal.

Below is an actual 1955 (Model 25-2). Note the different hammer shape and the way the barrel perfectly blends into the frame.

RILEY31 · #3 05-31-2015, 10:41 PM

The grips look like Fuzzy Farrant grips. Did they come on the gun?

Art Doc · #4 05-31-2015, 10:43 PM

Check post #13 to see what the butt of a 1917 looks like. This is where the serial should be. The gun may have started as another model but the serial should be on the butt and a pre-war gun should be no higher than the 60,000 range with no letters.

Let's see your U.S. Model 1917 S&Ws!

CLK1 · #5 05-31-2015, 10:54 PM

Hi SP,

Wow thanks for the info! Disappointing info perhaps but very good to know. I think I will be having a word with the retailer that sold me the gun. There was absolutely no mention of this being a build gun and I'm not sure I would want to keep it if it is.

As for the serial number I live up in Canuckland so all our handguns have to be registered with the government and verified so it is registered with this serial number.

I'll check that other post........thanks again for all the info!

CLK1 · #6 05-31-2015, 10:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RILEY31

The grips look like Fuzzy Farrant grips. Did they come on the gun?

Hi Riley, yes these grips came on the revolver. I've owned a lot of revolvers over the years and have not seen these before.

I'm going to google Fuzzy Farrant ;-)

RILEY31 · #7 05-31-2015, 11:18 PM

Fuzzy Farrant grips a very desirable.

CLK1 · #8 05-31-2015, 11:25 PM

Okay I know who Earl Fuzzy Farrant is now.....man I feel dumb. I had to check so I took the grips off again and had a look, no markings at all that I can see so I guess its a mystery.

I can't figure out how to search for a post yet so took a photo of the butt.

Art Doc · #9 05-31-2015, 11:43 PM

It may have started out as a 2nd Model 455 (not unlikely since found in Canada) or even a 3rd Model 44. But whatever, a serial in the 200,000 range is not possible. If the government is using that number so be it, but it is not the original serial.

You don't say what you paid for it, but assuming the revolver worked properly to me it's worth maybe $300 as a shooter. In all honesty, I wouldn't buy it at any price. If represented as a 1955 it's false advertising.

steelslaver · #10 05-31-2015, 11:44 PM

Look on the bottom of the grip frame. That is where correct number should be. I think it is a 1917 frame also because it has the hole in the grip frame that a pin passes through to hold the lanyard ring.

CLK1 · #11 06-01-2015, 12:03 AM

Hi steelslaver,

The number 2009XX is the only number on the bottom of the grip frame. There are the 2 other numbers inside the cylinder yoke. There doesn't appear to be any numbers obliterated or removed in any way.

I got curious when I was reading posts on here because it seemed a proper 1955 would have a S near the number on the grip frame.

Thanks for your help.

CLK1 · #12 06-01-2015, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SaxonPig

It may have started out as a 2nd Model 455 (not unlikely since found in Canada) or even a 3rd Model 44. But whatever, a serial in the 200,000 range is not possible. If the government is using that number so be it, but it is not the original serial.

You don't say what you paid for it, but assuming the revolver worked properly to me it's worth maybe $300 as a shooter. In all honesty, I wouldn't buy it at any price. If represented as a 1955 it's false advertising.

Given the difference in our dollar, your is worth way more, I'm not sure a price comparison would be equal but I paid $550.00 for it. That's probably closer to $700.00 USD.

I agree, it was falsely represented, whether purposely or not if I ask to return it they should take it back. There's no collector value here so I am 95 percent sure its going to be returned.

I'm just thankful for all the information received from you fellows so I didn't try to sell it down the road and have someone tell me I was trying to rip them off.

DCWilson · #13 06-01-2015, 01:08 AM

That serial number would permit the frame to be from a Brazilian contract 1917 that was assembled and shipped in the late 1930s. Since the surfaces do appear to have been repolished fairly aggressively, it is possible for the Brazilian star to have been erased from the sideplate. Alternatively, the sideplate may be an unmarked piece from some other 1917. That could be determined by comparing the soft fitting number on the sideplate interior to the same numbers on the mating surfaces of yoke and frame.

In any event, as others noted the barrel does not match the frame. It's a put-together gun and you should feel free to return it if you feel it was misrepresented (or charitably, just misunderstood) by the seller.

Twiki357 · #14 06-01-2015, 01:26 AM

Maybe it’s just my old eyes, but (in addition to what others have posted) other than the one line on the right side of the frame, I don’t see any S&W stamp or logo on the frame. Also, the barrel and cylinder seem to a different color than the frame.

beagleye · #15 06-01-2015, 06:42 AM

I se that "Made in the USA" line too. Weren't there some commercial transitional 1917s sold post war with serial numbers close to that? Not sure if they had S's.

jmace57 · #16 06-01-2015, 07:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twiki357

Maybe it’s just my old eyes, but (in addition to what others have posted) other than the one line on the right side of the frame, I don’t see any S&W stamp or logo on the frame. Also, the barrel and cylinder seem to a different color than the frame.

Those were the same things I noticed, twiki.

Freischütz · #17 06-01-2015, 02:26 PM

550$CAD is about 440$US

CLK1 · #18 06-01-2015, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twiki357

Maybe it’s just my old eyes, but (in addition to what others have posted) other than the one line on the right side of the frame, I don’t see any S&W stamp or logo on the frame. Also, the barrel and cylinder seem to a different color than the frame.

It's odd but under normal lighting you can't see the difference in color but the camera caught the difference for sure, just another thing that made me think something with this gun was off.

CLK1 · #19 06-01-2015, 05:37 PM

I called the retailer today and spoke with a staff member explaining I would be returning the revolver due to the fact it is not what it was sold to me as, a 1955. The staff member said they would honor a refund so I'll get it back to them ASAP.

I would like to thank all you gentlemen for sharing your knowledge. As I previously mentioned, it would have been bad enough for me to get burned when I bought it, but, to me it would have been far worse when I went to sell it to someone and looked like I was trying to pull a fast one over on them.

Thank you,

CLK

05CarbonDRZ · #20 06-01-2015, 07:33 PM

See if they will sell You just the Stocks for a $100.

CLK1 · #21 06-01-2015, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05CarbonDRZ

See if they will sell You just the Stocks for a $100.

You think they're worth it? They actually feel a little too small, thin, for the gun.

I doubt they'll be receptive to me offering to buy part of the gun when I'm asking for my money back ;-)

Toyman · #22 06-01-2015, 10:10 PM

I have a post was commercial serial 210120 with out "S" pre war configuration with lanyard loop . Could this be built on a post was commercial frame ?

05CarbonDRZ · #23 06-01-2015, 10:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CLK1

You think they're worth it? They actually feel a little too small, thin, for the gun.

I doubt they'll be receptive to me offering to buy part of the gun when I'm asking for my money back ;-)

Easily worth $100 probably double that.You never know until You ask...Worst they can say is No.Just wait until after You get your Money back.

CLK1 · #24 06-02-2015, 12:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 05CarbonDRZ

Easily worth $100 probably double that.You never know until You ask...Worst they can say is No.Just wait until after You get your Money back.

I could not find any markings on these grips. How do I know who made them or establish a value on them? Could they be a knock off grip?

Riley had mentioned Fuzzy Farrant grips earlier on but how would I know for sure?

CLK1 · #25 06-02-2015, 12:59 AM

Double post

05CarbonDRZ · #26 06-02-2015, 01:13 AM

His work was not marked but I am 99% sure they are Fuzzy's.I guess after seeing so many Pictures online I have gotten good at spotting them.He almost always used the plugged Escutcheon Hole on the RH Stock Panel,Like on these.

Muley Gil · #27 06-02-2015, 05:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Toyman

I have a post was commercial serial 210120 with out "S" pre war configuration with lanyard loop . Could this be built on a post was commercial frame ?

According to the SCSW 3rd, the post WW II range for the 1917s was 209792-210782.

Some have the "S" prefix, some do not. Does yours have the hammer block?

steelslaver · #28 06-02-2015, 06:40 AM

If you paid $550 Canadian with the exchange rate its $440 US. If you want it for a shooter I would return with it to the shop and see if you could get a partial refund. If they knocked off a $100 it would be reasonable and you could also sell the grips and pick up some generic grips that you like and recoup some more. It might be a bit of a mongrel, but most shooter grade N frames go for over $400 now days. Just the barrel would probably sell for around $150 US.

It don't look that bad and no reason it shouldn't shoot well other than the fact that like most early 45s it probably has large cylinder throats and may not shoot .452 lead bullets well. If you reload .454 lead bullets are readily available.

But then I have a soft spot for a S&W 45 of any kind.

CLK1 · #29 06-02-2015, 12:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Muley Gil

According to the SCSW 3rd, the post WW II range for the 1917s was 209792-210782.

Some have the "S" prefix, some do not. Does yours have the hammer block?

Sorry if this is a stupid question.........do I have to take the side plate off to see I it has a hammer block?

CLK1 · #30 06-02-2015, 12:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steelslaver

If you paid $550 Canadian with the exchange rate its $440 US. If you want it for a shooter I would return with it to the shop and see if you could get a partial refund. If they knocked off a $100 it would be reasonable and you could also sell the grips and pick up some generic grips that you like and recoup some more. It might be a bit of a mongrel, but most shooter grade N frames go for over $400 now days. Just the barrel would probably sell for around $150 US.

It don't look that bad and no reason it shouldn't shoot well other than the fact that like most early 45s it probably has large cylinder throats and may not shoot .452 lead bullets well. If you reload .454 lead bullets are readily available.

But then I have a soft spot for a S&W 45 of any kind.

Oh boy, now I'm second guessing myself, maybe I should keep it ;-)

If it's a fun shooter and the grips are what some think they are maybe its not a bad idea to keep it and shoot the heck out of it.

From what I've read I wouldn't need moon clips although they make reloading easier. I haven't seen any 45 auto rimless (think that's the correct term) for sale up here so would have to stick with 45acp which I have a decent supply of anyhow.

RILEY31 · #31 06-02-2015, 12:47 PM

The grips are Fuzzy Farrant and I have sold three pair just like them for $250 a set the checkered sets bring a little bit more

jsfricks · #32 06-02-2015, 01:22 PM

I would take it back to the store. Explain to them what you have discovered about the gun (not the grips) and tell them you wouldn't mind having it as a shooter (if you wouldn't mind) and see if they'll knock some off. This might work better for them than trying to go through to paperwork for a refund. If not, then get all your money back.

rgm36 · #33 06-02-2015, 07:59 PM

I would be real quick to return that one.

I see a "refinished" pre war frame and thumb latch, long throw hammer - with an "original finish" post war cylinder and barrel that are turning plum color as many did. What's worst is the "ribbed" barrel does not meet the frame properly (as mentioned) since that frame would have a had a "non ribbed" barrel on it originally.
Can you even imagine the internals and what has been patched together in there - let alone the legality of the thing.

Both the builder and seller of this gun should be ashamed of themselves.

Muley Gil · #34 06-02-2015, 08:20 PM

"Both the builder and seller of this gun should be ashamed of themselves."

Well, not the builder. Obviously, somebody wanted a targeted sighted .45 revolver and they put one together.

"I haven't seen any 45 auto rimless (think that's the correct term) for sale up here so would have to stick with 45acp which I have a decent supply of anyhow.'

I believe you are talking about the .45 Auto Rim cartridge, which has a thick rim, equal to .45 ACP in moonclips.