My Ladysmith, third model. It looks good, matching nr's. I think, the knob for opening the cilinder is not original. The colour is a little lighter. Also the screw above is lighter in colour. No idea if the blueing is original.
Serialnr. range is 220XX
What is your opinion ?

The best I can do is show you what the knob on my Ladysmith looks like. You will notice that there is cross-hatched machining and not straight machining around the knob. Also, the edges on your Ladysmith look a little rounded as compared to my nickel gun, so I will go out on a limb and say the knob is wrong and the gun has been refinished . . . and wait for differing opinions.

Condition is not great on my little 22, but I believe original nickel. Any condition 22 Ladysmith is worth owning, since there were just not that many left out there and fewer still with intact forcing cones.

Attached Images

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Gary
SWCA 2515

I would have to agree with Gary. The knob is wrong and there is evidence that the gun has been refinished. The screw to the right above the trigger definitely looks like it has been buffed. There also appears to be pitting under the finish.

Again, like Gary said, owning one in any condition is still a cool thing.

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James Redfield
LM #497

these are cool little pistols.

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Robert
SWCA #2906, SWHF #760

I agree with Gary any Ladysmith is worth owning. I have one that someone shot 22 LR out of and blew out the forcing cone it actually still shoots ok with 2 shorts. I bought it because they just dont show up around my area in any condition. I also have a parts gun I picked up at a local show.

If your forcing cone is undamaged, and you wish to shoot it, .22 Short standard velocity ammo is probably best. And it is still loaded, but a little difficult to find. The lockwork is always described as being delicate. Very few gunsmiths will attempt to repair it if it ever breaks. So I would limit its use. I have no opinion on the finish originality.

Just as an extra precaution, I only use 22 CB Short or CB Long in my annual outing with the Ladysmith and they still punch holes in paper. You will hear the bullets hit the paper some time after you pull the trigger. Unfortunately as you note, any of these loads are hard to find. I keep track of online sources and places like Wards Collectibles and SoldUSA for CCI 100 packs. Also, I have found some at Gun Shows. If you find some pay the price, since who knows when or if they will ever return to store shelves.

Chronographing various 22 loads show average "standard" fps velocities for those loads below; shot from a 6" barrel.

22BB Caps CCI 400
22CB Caps CCI 475
22CB Short CCI 450
22 Short UMC BP 600
22 Short CCI 990
22CB long CCI 700
22 Long CCI 950

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Gary
SWCA 2515

Views of my Second Model LS


A better view of the Cylinder release knob.










After much research I've found "22 S&W"caliber was the equivelent of the 22 Long (not Long Rifle) and there were no high speed rounds back in 1910 when my LS was likely born. I go conservative with my all matching piece... and intact forcing cone... use only CB caps. I actually bought some std velocity 22 shorts languishing at WM recently... they'll punch paper just fine in a bolt action or revolver.

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NRA LIFE
Reserve Officer 9yrs

I wouldn't have any hesitation about using .22 Short SV loads in the Ladysmith. In my Hi-Standard Olympic Pistol, I use them (in fact, those are all I can use). The .22 Short SV's MV chronographs around 800 ft/sec, but probably would be somewhat less in a revolver due to gas loss at the cylinder-forcing cone gap. Indeed, the Ladysmith was intended to use SV .22 Long cartridges, as .22 high-speed loads were not yet on the market at the time the Ladysmith was made.

Thanks for all the answers.
I shoot it with a few BB caps and it works good.