Burn / lead rings on blued gun

hkcavalier

hkcavalier

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Finally took my prewar K-22 out for some shooting. What's a good way to clean up the front of the cylinder? With my stainless guns I usually just spray with MPro7 and scrub with an old copper bore brush. I don't know if the bluing will handle that and I don't want to beat up an eighty year old gun.
 
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Wipe them off the best you can, use powder solvent with an old tooth brush.
It won't come completely clean, but it'll look pretty good.
 
I feel your pain..I saved up and purchase a colt diamond back I haven't shot it much. So it cleaned up really good with a toothbrush and some hoppies.
I have a blued ruger I shoot the hell out of it. Everyone said don't even think of using a led removal cloth. But I know better..what did I do..I took a led removal cloth and thought if I'm real gental it should be OK..nope! ..took the blueing right off..lol..so when some one says the powder ring is just part of owning a blued gun believe them...a tooth brush and lite cleaner is all you can do..its OK we all understand if that part of the gun has some powder on it..don't do what I did and ruin a guns finish due to a little OCD...thank god it wasn't my colt
 
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It's in "shooter" condition but yeah...don't need new scratches. I have lots of those green military brushes and Hoppes. Guess that's what I'll use.
 
I use a bronze brush and MPro7 on my 586. It is a AAA serial number I have had since it was new. I have used it a lot and it has been scrubbed a lot and the blue is getting thin on the front of the cylinder. No more than you seem to use it, I doubt that you will hurt it with an occasional brushing.
 
With a .22 I let the front soak with Hoppe's awhile, they wrap a larger cleaning patch around an old Popsicle stick, add more Hoppe's and gently rub. It comes pretty clean. (I do not shoot thunderbolt in my guns).
 
Go to a local restaurant equipment supply store and buy some Carbon-Off. They sell it as a gel or aerosol. It's pricey but works. After you get the carbon off the front of your cylinder, treat the whole gun with Strike Hold. It is a hydrophobic seal that bonds with the metal and prevents water or carbon from sticking to the metal. Makes cleanup much easier.

Here's a product demo video for Carbon-off.

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEuhskTR1wk[/ame]
 
I have some blued guns that are modern and I shoot a lot, so I tried another method and it is quite good. I would not recommend you do this, repeatedly,….in other words, if you intend to shoot the gun again, leave it alone. This is for those guns that are to be put away and become safe queens……..
I use Shooters Choice (it is really superior to Hoppe's….in my opinion. Whatever you do, do NOT mix them….the formulas are completely different.) Once I go over with a SOFT toothbrush and get the bulk of the powder burn off….I cut a strip of the 3M Scothbrite pad that is PINK & WHITE. The pads come in three levels of abrasiveness….the Green-Yellow is for tough use…..The Blue-Blue is for teflon surfaces, but the White-Pink is for Silver…..my thought was/is if it will not scratch silver it should be OK on blueing. Soaking the Pink-White cut strip and wiping gently works well to remove the burn rings.
 
Wiregrassguy said:
Go to a local restaurant equipment supply store and buy some Carbon-Off. They sell it as a gel or aerosol. It's pricey but works. After you get the carbon off the front of your cylinder, treat the whole gun with Strike Hold. It is a hydrophobic seal that bonds with the metal and prevents water or carbon from sticking to the metal. Makes cleanup much easier.

Here's a product demo video for Carbon-off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEuhskTR1wk
Click to expand...

Guy,
this looks to be terrific….
 
Wiregrassguy said:
Go to a local restaurant equipment supply store and buy some Carbon-Off. They sell it as a gel or aerosol. It's pricey but works. After you get the carbon off the front of your cylinder, treat the whole gun with Strike Hold. It is a hydrophobic seal that bonds with the metal and prevents water or carbon from sticking to the metal. Makes cleanup much easier.

Here's a product demo video for Carbon-off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rEuhskTR1wk
Click to expand...

I'll have to try this...looks like it'll work for more than just my K-22.
 
Part of the welcoming ceremony for each beat-up, old S&W that comes to live here is "Ralph's Bath". Part of that is cleaning the front face of the cylinder----to "like new". It should be noted this is done once. These are not "shooters". Accordingly, I have not the first clue how they would stand up to repeated cleaning of this fashion. I strongly suspect they'd stand up just fine.

The tools are Hoppes #9 and a "copper toothbrush"-----and something that used to be called "elbow grease". (I understand "elbow grease" has fallen from fashion so folks can sell magic "spray and wipe" snake oil.) I say "copper" because that's what it looks like. The brand name on the "toothbrush" is "KLEEN-BORE". I don't know where I get them, but Brownells is a good bet---because I get damn near everything from Brownells. (This is also used on the front face of the recoil shield and the rear face of the barrel----and in the nooks and crannies between the rear of the barrel and the frame. This latter operation is not kind to the "toothbrush"----which probably explains why I get several of them at once.

All I can tell you about all this is it works. Folks take one look, and say "This looks like it's never been fired!" Looks are deceiving.

Ralph Tremaine

The term "elbow grease" is deserving of elaboration. I scrub for as much time as it takes. I do not scrub as hard as I can. This is in keeping with my aversion to physical labor.
 
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