Old revolver?

[Frogy1984]

I got a old revolver number is V125655 it says 38s&w special ctg on barrel no model number our name can I get help with what it is and value and is worth keeping.

[DWalt]

It's a WWII Victory model. In .38 Special it would not be one made for the British, as so many were. Is there anything stamped on the topstrap? If not it is probably what's called a DSC gun - made for domestic service by police and defense plant guards. Could also be stamped U.S. NAVY. It likely shipped from S&W around November 1942. No one can estimate value without some good clear pix.

[merl67]

Welcome ! You have a early Victory model pictures are a must to put a value on as condition is everything . It basicly is a 4th change model made for WW2 from 1942-45 yours probably is early in the run.

[Frogy1984]

I dont know how to add pic

[Frogy1984]

Picd i hope

[Frogy1984]

Nothing stamped on top said just smith info with patented date s

[Frogy1984]

Any more info

[Absalom]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

Any more info

From your pictures, it has clearly been re-finished, as Victory models came with a dull phosphate finish; a standard blue like yours appears to show was not an original option. The stocks also look too new and shiny and are likely modern reproductions.

A thorough refinish like this could remove the topstrap stamp, but your serial falls into a range and time period when a lot of DSC guns shipped to non-military recipients, so either is possible.

In this modified condition, although in decent shape, it is no longer of interest to collectors, so it could likely only be valued as a shooter in the 200 to 300 range.

[DWalt]

I'll agree, a very pretty gun but not original. I show several DSC guns with very closeby SNs, and the lack of a topstrap stamp would support that it is likely a DSC. I'd say it would probably move quickly at a $300 price, maybe even a little more even as a shooter.

[Frogy1984]

It shoots OK seems to just need to be cleaned internal I paid 400 for it I really suck at buying guns I always seem to get taking
I was told irt was a old cop gun he re did it as he carried it all time I think
But if its been redone why can I still read al marking clearly

[murphydog]

The average S & W revolver refinish will blur all the stampings, dull the sharp edges of the frame and cylinder, widen the sideplate seam and often the hammer and trigger are also (incorrectly) matched to the refinish. From the photos, yours seems to have avoided most if not all of these pitfalls, so whomever did the refinish knew to try to avoid them.

One noticeable clue is the cylinder is a different color than the rest of the gun, but that doesn't detract from it being a nice shooter. Enjoy!

[Absalom]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

It shoots OK seems to just need to be cleaned internal I paid 400 for it I really suck at buying guns I always seem to get taking
I was told irt was a old cop gun he re did it as he carried it all time I think
But if its been redone why can I still read al marking clearly

I wouldn't worry about it unless you thought you were buying a historical collectible gun that will appreciate in value and that you could sell in the future at a profit.

As a shooter (and that's what most people buy guns for ), as long as it is in good mechanical condition, it is functionally identical to any later M&P or Model 10 you could have bought, and you'd likely have paid as much for one of those in this comparatively nice condition.

[Frogy1984]

So it worth keeping I just wanted I nice old school gun that works. so I did OK then

[merl67]

I think you did ok the refinish looks nicely done, for shooting I would find a set of Magna grips for it like these.

[Frogy1984]

Is there a way to check timing. And how hard to change grips and find them and cost

[nicky4968]

Around here we often say not that we paid too much but that we bought too early.

Do not shoot +P ammunition; bad for the life of the gun.

Welcome to the forum. You did just fine.

[BC38]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

Is there a way to check timing. And how hard to change grips and find them and cost

A decent newer set of magnas (not a period correct set of diamond magnas like the ones posted by merl67) can be had for $25-$40 or so. The period correct diamond magnas in equally good condition would run twice that much. They are easy to swap, but why? Personally I wouldn't bother with changing the grips, if you can shoot it well with those. The old-school service grips you have look good on the gun to me.

[merl67]

BC38 you made me feel good about the purchase of those grips I gave $32 for them at a antique mall back in March.

[Frogy1984]

OK guys last ? I hope is it OK if there wiggle room with cylinder side just a bit and for and back a bit in taking a little a nuff to notice thou but it shoots fine and all that I guess as long as it work I should be happy

[Sevens]

You didn't get shafted, that looks like a pretty nice revolver.

One way you can check the timing is to ensure the revolver is unloaded. Unload it, check it, check it again and be sure.

Then slowly pull the trigger it's long double action cycle, but do it slowly. If you do it quickly, the momentum of the spinning cylinder can "mask" some poor timing, so doing it slowly can show you how good the timing is. The cylinder should click and lock in to place -BEFORE- the hammer falls. And it should do this on all 6 chambers.

If it seems to pass this test well... time to make the test more difficult. Now put your thumb on the cylinder lightly... attempt to bind the cylinder ever so slightly while pulling through the long double action. Check that on all chambers, too.

If the revolver can pass both of those tests flawlessly then the timing is as close to perfect as it's likely to get. But here is a hint... there are -MANY- revolvers out there giving fantastic service whose timing isn't THAT good! The cylinder and it's momentum will "carry up" nicely so that some flaws in the timing are masked.

[Frogy1984]

Is it OK to leave this load our do I need to worry with the hammer and firing pin

[Jimmyjones]

Keep it loaded with 6 !

Yours has the 'old style' hammer block, in a properly maintained gun they function just fine. I have a few. S&W changed the hammer block late in the V series (series became VS) after a potentially less than properly maintained revolver was dropped onto a ship deck from very high up and resulted in a fatality.

I wouldn't sweat keeping it full.

[Frogy1984]

I just thought that if I bumed gun hard a nuff it would go off

[Jimmyjones]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

I just thought that if I bumed gun hard a nuff it would go off

Nope, and it's redundant, there is a feature on the rebound slide which lifts the hammer as the trigger moves forward.

You can watch it. Unload it, check it, check it, check it again to be sure.

Point it in a safe direction, then pull the trigger and keep it held back. Looking between the cylinder and the recoil shield you should be able to see the firing pin protruding. Slowly release the trigger and watch the firing pin retract.

[Frogy1984]

My firing pin is on my hammer

[Jimmyjones]

Yes it is.

With the trigger back and the hammer forward the firing pin is long enough to protrude through the frame and hit the primer on a cartridge sitting in the cylinder.
Looking sideways through the frame, on an empty gun you can observe this.

[Frogy1984]

Yes so i need to leave it on a empty chamber

[BC38]

Originally Posted by merl67

BC38 you made me feel good about the purchase of those grips I gave $32 for them at a antique mall back in March.

At that price in that condition I'd take two pair.

[tops]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

Yes so i need to leave it on a empty chamber

No! Reread post #s 24 and 26. Larry

[Frogy1984]

OK some one explain to me why I dont need to leave iit on a empty Chambers I still new to revolvers and really new to old revolvers own many m&p pistol's

[Frogy1984]

Can I get some help understanding why i dont have to
Oad of on a empty chamber because all you got to do is hit hammer and it will go off

[Waveski]

Limit your load to 5 if it will make you feel better.

Enough already.

[murphydog]

Unload the gun, then make sure you've unloaded the gun .

Hold the gun sideways, so you can see the thin area behind the cylinder near the firing pin. Pull the trigger all the way through and you will see the pin protruding through the recoil shield.

There is an internal mechanical block that (when working properly) does not allow the firing pin to contact the primer without the trigger pulled all the way to the rear. To prove this, hold the gun firmly with the trigger at rest and the hammer forward and push as hard as you can on it. Or clamp the gun in a padded vise and use a rubber mallet to hit the hammer. Or hit the hammer with a 20 pound sledge (that is a joke, by the way ) - the firing pin will not move.

An old-style single action revolver did not have the hammer block, and would fire if it was dropped on a live round; not a concern with your S & W. Hope this is helpful.

[Frogy1984]

Ok all do more looking butt I always been told always load my revolver on a empty cylinder even do it on my new ones

[murphydog]

How important loading your revolver cylinder full would be depends on how quickly you might need the last round . Enjoy your new/old S & W.

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass! S&W revolvers have had hammer block safeties since well before WWII. No reason to carry on an empty cylinder. The hammer block safety was improved on that model during WWII due to an extraordinary event and out of an abundance of caution. You are more likely to shoot your foot off with a Glock than with a S&W revolver made in the last 100 years.

[Frogy1984]

Ya I own a m&p 9 and still feel it one of the most unsafe guns out there with no safety I like it and all but you need to be super careful

[Waveski]

I hear the sound of our collective chain being yanked.

[ImprovedModel56Fan]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

Ok all do more looking butt I always been told always load my revolver on a empty cylinder even do it on my new ones

As long as you don't do it on +P, you should be ok in a modern S&W. That +P is some special ammo, especially the .38. Just look out for the super ammo.

[Eddie Southgate]

Originally Posted by Frogy1984

Is there a way to check timing. And how hard to change grips and find them and cost

Do you have a timing light ? You gonna need a timing light . Dust tape makes a fine grip Froggy and is available in a nice toady green color .

Eddie

[ParadiseRoad]

Originally Posted by Waveski

I hear the sound of our collective chain being yanked.

...you mean Froggy is a Trolly?...

[Waveski]

"You gonna need a timing light."

Excellent!