S&W model S needs stocks

[Chipsdad]

Hi, new to your forum, so I hope we are posting at the correct site. We just picked up a S&W revolver , with the letter S where the model number should be. According to the serial number, it was made in 1947. We found out it's a K frame , and the stock that's missing is a Diamond Center Checkered Walnut, Square Butt, post war, and were used by S&W 1946 to 1950.
My question is, where do I find one ? Checked E-Bay , nothing . Talked to my local gunsmith and he didn't know.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

p.s. it came with a stag handle and a "sure grip adapter"

[merl67]

Welcome to the forum. Let's first make sure we are correctly identifying your Smith pictures are best. The serial number from the bottom of the grip is needed include any letter before the number as that is part of the serial number. We can then nail down which grips would be correct.

[Targets Guy]

Welcome to the forum. Just be patient and keep looking. You can also use the "want to buy" forum here and tell folks you are looking for a pair.

This .38 M&P shipped 8/46 and still has its matching stocks.

[CapnB]

The serial number will help identify the exact model of your revolver. If you’re reluctant to post the entire number, just give us the first three digits along with any letter prefix, i.e. C123XXX. Welcome to the forum.

[JP@AK]

The letter S in the yoke area has nothing whatever to do with the model. It is just a fitter's mark.

As others have said, please give us the serial number on the butt. It could start with either an S or a C, if you have identified the correct period. If it was actually made in 1947 and is a K frame with fixed sights, the serial number could only start with the letter S. In that case, it would be a postwar .38 Military and Police - that is the model name. Model numbers didn't come into use until 1958.

[DWalt]

I am not sure what you are asking about, but I take it you want a pair of period-correct grips for a late-1940s M&P? In any event, look on eBay and keep looking. The correct sharp shoulder Magna grips (K-frame, correct type is shown above)) are often found there. Finding a single grip panel might be more difficult.

[Minorcan]

I just checked eBay and there are several that would be correct for your revolver. Pricing from about $40-100. I would just get a pair so the patterns, color and grain match.

[Art Doc]

I don't know about the rest of you, but it's nice to see an S model after all those CTG models.

[Wiregrassguy]

Welcome to the forums from the Wiregrass, ChipsDad! Congratulations on doing some research before posting! A lot of folks don't and consequently don't give us much info to go on.

Targets Guy's stocks are the type you need to be period correct. They are known among the collectors as "sharp shouldered magnas" because of the way the upper part of the stock panel rises nearly vertically to meet the surface of the panel. Later magna stocks are more rounded and don't show a shoulder. They will have black washers. They will also have the digits of the gun's serial number stamped on the right panel. The approximate range of numbers you are looking for are ~ 811120 - 999999 (S series serials) and 277000 to 400000 (C series serials), and 101 to 231256 (K series serials). S&W made this style of magna stocks from 1935 to 1955 with most of them being manufactured after WWII.

[OLDSTER]

Your 1947 needs "sharp shouldered diamond magnas". Just like these on my 1947 all original factory nickel M&P. Tough to find; post a WTB on the forum

[JP@AK]

Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy

S&W made this style of magna stocks from 1935 to 1955 with most of them being manufactured after WWII.

Close, but let me refine this slightly.

The "sharp shoulders" lasted from 1935 (introduction of the Magna stocks) until about 1953, when the shoulder was "softened." However, from 1935 until about March, 1946, the checkering pattern was more extensive. In 1946, the coverage with checking was reduced, while the sharp shoulder remained intact. This was the first postwar Magna stock design, with the earliest shipped postwar Magna stocks having the prewar style checkering.

This picture illustrates the difference:

[Wiregrassguy]

I could have added more like the different washers and bordering of the pre-war stocks. But, he is really looking for and more likely to find and afford to buy the post war version.

[DWalt]

Plus finding Magna grips with the washer type as shown in #3 (pre-war or immediate post-war) will be difficult and expensive. Just plain old sharp shoulder Magnas should be easily found at a relatively reasonable price.

Several years ago I started buying up postwar sharp shoulder Magnas off eBay, and accumulated, I think, five pairs. I don't think I paid more than $30 per pair for any of them. Just against the time I might need some. I think those are the classiest variety of Magnas.

[larryofcc]

Originally Posted by DWalt

Plus finding Magna grips with the washer type as shown in #3 (pre-war or immediate post-war) will be difficult and expensive. Just plain old sharp shoulder Magnas should be easily found at a relatively reasonable price.

Several years ago I started buying up postwar sharp shoulder Magnas off eBay, and accumulated, I think, five pairs. I don't think I paid more than $30 per pair for any of them. Just against the time I might need some. I think those are the classiest variety of Magnas.

Do you have a pair that is un numbered? I need a pair. Thanks, Big Larry

[JP@AK]

Originally Posted by Wiregrassguy

I could have added more like the different washers and bordering of the pre-war stocks. But, he is really looking for and more likely to find and afford to buy the post war version.

Sure! And my post was not intended to contradict yours. I have lots of respect for you, my friend. I just thought it was worth noting that there was a change in the outward appearance shortly after the war.

[iskra]

Sharp shoulder correct stocks ID'ed! Please also note the depth of assist! No 'cold shoulder' responses here!

[wheelgun610]

Originally Posted by iskra

Sharp shoulder correct stocks ID'ed!

Now, all we need is a positive ID on the OP's gun.

Mark