I found out what was wrong with the Brazilian Ejector Rod..

[Buzz Yooper]

So this 1917 Brazilian followed me home.... Looks in decent shape.. I believe it to be from the first shipment... Flat top, and Serial # 1936xx.... The only problems with it are:......1.) Missing Lanyard loop. I have a spare on the way, 2.) Somebody buggered up the tip of the cylinder extractor,.. and... 3.).. The center pin is just a tad too short and does not want to release the cylinder stop under the barrel... Numrich does not list one for the 1917, but does for other "N" frame models... Is there any reason that one of those would not work????

Thanks for any assistance...

[steelslaver]

Clean the rod and the extractor up well, plus, remove the thumbpiece, and the bolt and clean those areas well. Also clean the under lug tooth so it can move all the way back, crude in it will cause it to jam up. I doubt the center pin got shorter. Either the rod isn't screwing all the way into the extractor or crud isn't allowing full movement of the bolt and therefor the center pin. You can also file a small amount off the face of the knob. That is actually a normal adjustment when fitting new cylinder parts.

On center pins, the location of the small collar on them changed location some over the years

[Hondo44]

Steelslaver covered all the bases. The first two things I check are associated with crud as steelslaver emphasized.

Is the extractor rod screwed all the way in on clean threads?

With the cylinder open, does the rear cylinder bolt go forward enough to be flush with the breechface when the cyl release thumb piece is pushed forward?

[Buzz Yooper]

I tried the advice that you folks had given me for this problem, but those were Not the issues...

The Center Pin was actually too short, and as the cylinder was closing you could see that the pin did not come to the end of the ejector rod.. It was about an eighth of an inch short... So, when trying to open the cylinder, the center pin did not push the cylinder lock far enough out of the ejector rod...

It was possible to push in the cylinder latch, and give the cylinder a good rap from the right side and it would open, but it was a pain... I happened to have a spare center pin from some other old N frame, and I tried it.. It protruded a little too far and I had to file it down to the right length.. Works like a champ now....

All that being said, I suspect this was a problem from the start, because for an 87 year old milsurp, it was in pretty good shape...I suspect that because it was difficult to use it may have been set aside and not used.. The very end of the extractor rod was boogered up some, I suspect that some guy in Brazil futzed around with it, but didn't know how to fix the problem... The bore and chambers are practically mint, and the wear on the recoil shield that gets rubbed each time the cylinder is opened and closed is very minimal....I am posting some better pics of this gun,,, Definitely pleased with this one... I think I did OK for $410 out the door...

[SS336]

Very nice 1917 and at a great price! 👍👍
I would be pleased too.

[Green Frog]

That’s certainly in nicer shape than most Brazilians I’ve seen. I suspect your theory about why it saw so little use is correct. It would have been too easy to grab another one that “worked right” and leave that one on a shelf in the armory.
Glad you were able to find and fix the problem so easily. Sometimes the simplest problems can be the hardest to diagnose.
Froggie

[alwslate]

A steal at $410 out the door.

[delta-419]

I think you bought the stocks and got the gun for free!!!

[handejector]

Originally Posted by delta-419

I think you bought the stocks and got the gun for free!!!

Except those are not Factory grips.....

[austintexas]

I think I own the most normal looking Brazilian that is super Futzed with. I bought it at a gunshow with a cursory look (Dim show, why is the lighting always so bad at a gunshow?) Got home and first thing I noticed was the barrel had been replaced, it was marked Rv .45 M917-S & W, under that was F.I. and underneath 530. Frame Ser # 169288, extracter 169288, cylinder #739288, crane #199264, Cylinder aligns well but almost rubs the barrel and the crane protrudes a 1/16th from the frame. The pistol works and shoots but is a Frankin Gun. I now carry a flashlight with me. The armories in Brazil really did their magic to get this gun to work again.
SWCA 892
PS the hammer was re-checkered to a coarse checkering, a nice 5 foot revolver.

[AJ]

I remember when a bunch of those were imported by IIRC Golden State Arms in the LA area about 1988. I was stationed at Long Beach and some of the sailors there bought them. Cost then ws $125 for a regular piece and $150 for a hand selected one. I did not buy one as I was enamored with the M1911 platforms.

[glowe]

Originally Posted by handejector

Except those are not Factory grips.....

I am not an N frame collector, but those do have 1930s S&W silver medallions that look smaller than other 1930s N frame stocks. What I do see is the outer vertical checkering lines running all the way up to the top round. Am I close to identifying all the differences? Do you know who made these reproductions?

[Hondo44]

Gary,
The medallions are close but not the same as factory 1930’s flat flush silver medallions. N frames are 1/2” and K frames are 3/8”.

[handejector]

Originally Posted by glowe

Am I close to identifying all the differences?

The escutcheons are not Factory.

[Buzz Yooper]

Originally Posted by handejector

Except those are not Factory grips.....

Yes, they are not factory grips.... The gun came to me from the auction with out grips or lanyard loop... While the grips are not factory, they are close enough for my collection... It is definitely a first shipment gun. so it would have checkered grips with medallions... I had these in my parts box, so, until I can find an appropriate set at a decent price, these will do for me...

[Buzz Yooper]

[QUOTE=glowe;141818114]I am not an N frame collector, but those do have 1930s S&W silver medallions that look smaller than other 1930s N frame stocks. What I do see is the outer vertical checkering lines running all the way up to the top round. Am I close to identifying all the differences? Do you know who made these reproductions?

Yes, they are not factory grips... The gun came to me from the auction without grips and without a lanyard ring...... I had these grips, in my parts box... I am sure that they are some aftermarket, but they look better than no grips... This is definitely a specimen from the first shipment, so checkered grips, even not genuine look better than no grips... I don't know who made these grips, I probably bought them off of EBAY some time ago...

[Buzz Yooper]

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Gary,
The medallions are close but not the same as factory 1930’s flat flush silver medallions. N frames are 1/2” and K frames are 3/8”.

Yes, truly, the grips are not genuine S&W issue.. The gun came to me with no grips and no lanyard ring... I had this pair of grips in my parts box and since it is a specimen from the first shipment I felt it needed checkered grips... Looks better than no grips ... IMHO

[Buzz Yooper]

Originally Posted by handejector

The escutcheons are not Factory.

Yup, not factory... Gun came to me with no grips and no lanyard loop... I had these grips in my parts box and looked close enough for my collection until a proper set in as good of condition as the rest of the gun comes along, they make me happy...

[AJ]

Originally Posted by Buzz Yooper

Yup, not factory... Gun came to me with no grips and no lanyard loop... I had these grips in my parts box and looked close enough for my collection until a proper set in as good of condition as the rest of the gun comes along, they make me happy...

Buzz,

Are you using this as a collectors gun or a shooter? If just a shooter then the grips look fine to most of us. Do they feel good in your hand? If so then you are good to go. I just bought a Colt New Service that some one chopped the barrel and brush nickeled the gun. It had horrendous plastic stag grips on it. I found some smooth wood and it looks much better. This one is in .45 Colt now.

I have the smooth wood grips enroute to me. The checkered grips were on my Colt M1909.

[Buzz Yooper]

Originally Posted by AJ

Buzz,

Are you using this as a collectors gun or a shooter? If just a shooter then the gris look fine to most of us. Do they feel good in your hand? If so then you are good to go. I just bought a Colt New Service that some one chopped the barrel and brush nickeled the gun. It had horrendous plastic stag grips on it. I found some smooth wood and it looks much better. This one is in .45 Colt now.

Well, Not sure what a "collectors gun is", it is a gun in my, "collection" of guns that I have wound up with during my 77 years on this planet... And will be there until I turn into "worm Food"... I guess I am not a "Purest" collector and it does not bother that it is not 100% "original"... I take my guns to the range on a regular basis and shoot them and do the "Show and Tell"... My children have no interest in guns and shooting. so when I pass on to my reward, likely somebody will get a darn good deal on some guns... That doesn't bother me either...

[AJ]

Originally Posted by Buzz Yooper

Well, Not sure what a "collectors gun is", it is a gun in my, "collection" of guns that I have wound up with during my 77 years on this planet... And will be there until I turn into "worm Food"... I guess I am not a "Purest" collector and it does not bother that it is not 100% "original"... I take my guns to the range on a regular basis and shoot them and do the "Show and Tell"... My children have no interest in guns and shooting. so when I pass on to my reward, likely somebody will get a darn good deal on some guns... That doesn't bother me either...

Buzz,

A "Collectors Gun" is usually pristine and looks like it is brand new. These guns are looked at, but rarely shot. I am a shooting "collector/accumulator", this means everything I own has been or will be shot a lot. I am lucky in that all my Grandchildren shoot. Will let them divy up the spoils when I take a dirt nap!

AJ

[Buzz Yooper]

Originally Posted by AJ

Buzz,

A "Collectors Gun" is usually pristine and looks like it is brand new. These guns are looked at, but rarely shot. I am a shooting "collector/accumulator", this means everything I own has been or will be shot a lot. I am lucky in that all my Grandchildren shoot. Will let them divy up the spoils when I take a dirt nap!

AJ

Well, I never could see the utility in buying a gun to just keep in a safe and look at..

[glowe]

Originally Posted by Buzz Yooper

Well, I never could see the utility in buying a gun to just keep in a safe and look at..

. . . I agree! You can, however, shoot a collector S&W a very long time at the range and still have it look like the day you bought it.

[AJ]

Originally Posted by glowe

. . . I agree! You can, however, shoot a collector S&W a very long time at the range and still have it look like the day you bought it.

A lot of collectors won't take the chance. One scratch destroys the value.

[Mbrgr1]

Originally Posted by AJ

A lot of collectors won't take the chance. One scratch destroys the value.

"Collector" and "Value" are relative terms, safe queens to mangled war relics and service guns, all inclusive.


I "collect" anything I like and can afford, so I am a collector, the value is a personal decision, I lose on some and gain on others, but it is not the bottom line on purchases.



One $50000 gun or or 100 $500 guns (me ), who cares?

[AJ]

Originally Posted by Mbrgr1

"Collector" and "Value" are relative terms, safe queens to mangled war relics and service guns, all inclusive.


I "collect" anything I like and can afford, so I am a collector, the value is a personal decision, I lose on some and gain on others, but it is not the bottom line on purchases.



One $50000 gun or or 100 $500 guns (me ), who cares?

Maybe I should have written "collectability" instead of "value" as far as a scratch goes.

[4K2022]

Originally Posted by Buzz Yooper

I tried the advice that you folks had given me for this problem, but those were Not the issues...

The Center Pin was actually too short, and as the cylinder was closing you could see that the pin did not come to the end of the ejector rod.. It was about an eighth of an inch short... So, when trying to open the cylinder, the center pin did not push the cylinder lock far enough out of the ejector rod...

It was possible to push in the cylinder latch, and give the cylinder a good rap from the right side and it would open, but it was a pain... I happened to have a spare center pin from some other old N frame, and I tried it.. It protruded a little too far and I had to file it down to the right length.. Works like a champ now....

All that being said, I suspect this was a problem from the start, because for an 87 year old milsurp, it was in pretty good shape...I suspect that because it was difficult to use it may have been set aside and not used.. The very end of the extractor rod was boogered up some, I suspect that some guy in Brazil futzed around with it, but didn't know how to fix the problem... The bore and chambers are practically mint, and the wear on the recoil shield that gets rubbed each time the cylinder is opened and closed is very minimal....I am posting some better pics of this gun,,, Definitely pleased with this one... I think I did OK for $410 out the door...

I think you did OK too @ $410. Not all of us have boxes of stuff like center pins and spare stocks laying around, you were obviously ready for this one! If I come across what I think is a short center pin, I make one out of a bamboo skewer. This will often verify the problem and help in determining the proper length before beginning the hunt for parts.