S&W 25 Target 1955

[chasep255]

I would like to get a 45 ACP revolver. I was considering buying a like new condition S&W 25 Target 1955. How much do you think one of these would sell for? Also I am planning to do a good amount of shooting with it. I would not want to cause a lot of wear to something that is rare or in really nice condition. Would it be appropriate to shoot a gun like this? The other gun I have looked at is a 625-2 from the 80s which would maybe be more appropriate for my use case.

[elpac3]

I have an old 1955 - .45 that was used in bullseye competition for many years. Have no issues with the gun. Solid shooter.

The gun was built to be shot in competition with a lot of rounds running through it. Shooting lead, target bullet loads in revolvers will not wear out a barrel.

[M29since14]

As has already been said, you’re not likely to do the gun much harm by using it and taking proper care of it. I’d buy the gun I wanted and use it. Model 25s are pretty common guns. S&W made a lot of them.

[505Gibbs]

I'd hazard that both will approach $900 - 1100.
The mothership hasn't had a 45 ACP revolver listed in their catalog for perhaps a year or more; not that they were producing any nor are they likely anytime soon given the desire and profits from the autos.

[Muley Gil]

Welcome to the Forum.

Buy the one that you like the best and shoot the snot out of it.

[StakeOut]

I once was a lover of 1982 and prior blued S&W revolvers but I've transformed into a stainless pre lock accumulator.
Easier to clean and maintain after days at the range.

[USBP SW]

I have owned and shot model 25's and 625's since the 1970's. It was one of the must have revolvers of my youth. It is one of the most pleasant and enjoyable firearms I have ever shot. I prefer the classic look of the 6-6.5" blue revolvers over the 5" stainless even though the barrel time of the longer barrels makes follow through more important. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend either one.

[moosedog]

You say it's a model 25. Is it actually marked model 25 with no dash behind it? Pre model 25s, 25 no dashes and a 25-1 are all pretty rare and would be worth much more than a 25-2, which will sell for around $1200 on up depending on condition. And even an S prefix serial numbered 25-2 will be worth more. They will all have the barrel stamped 1955 on it, so you can't just go by that.
Pictures would help.

[sodacan]

45acp revolvers rock. The model 25 is a terrific gun, and you will not be disappointed with one. Pictured are my model 1950 (pre-26), model 1955 (pre-25) and 625-2. I also have 1917's from both S&W and Colt. All of them see a lot of range time. If you shoot regularly, consider getting a BMT moonclip tool. It makes loading and unloading the clips a breeze. Good luck.

[Dave_n]

Originally Posted by sodacan

45acp revolvers rock. The model 25 is a terrific gun, and you will not be disappointed with one. Pictured are my model 1950 (pre-26), model 1955 (pre-25) and 625-2. I also have 1917's from both S&W and Colt. All of them see a lot of range time. If you shoot regularly, consider getting a BMT moonclip tool. It makes loading and unloading the clips a breeze. Good luck.

Alternatively, investing in some 45 AutoRim cases will save a lot of curse words and twisted moon clips...just ask me how I know! Dave_n

[sodacan]

Originally Posted by Dave_n

Alternatively, investing in some 45 AutoRim cases will save a lot of curse words and twisted moon clips...just ask me how I know! Dave_n

You're right, but auto rim is fairly scarce and pricey. Of course, 45acp can be used in these revolvers as the the cylinders are cut to headspace the cartridge. You just need to poke them out one at a time. No mangled moonclips with a proper tool. I've been using the same ones for years.

[Kingspoke]

I love shooting my .45 acp revolvers. My favorite is the 25 No Dash, wearing the dark brown Culinas walnut grips (I believe), & the pre 26 (light barrel), to the left. The 25 came with cokes & the pre 26 came with matching numbered magnas (no box).

Both great guns, as well as a 3" 625-6 Lew Horton, which I seldom shoot (no particular reason). I use full moon clips with the BMT Mooner device, which allows for quick loading/unloading of moon clips without damage.

The target trigger/hammer & heavy barrel makes the 25 a cadillac shooter imo. Some people don't care for the moon clips, but it's a pleasure to me. Of course I'm a guy that shoots primarily .40 cal in my 646s.

[StrawHat]

Originally Posted by sodacan

You're right, but auto rim is fairly scarce and pricey. Of course, 45acp can be used in these revolvers as the the cylinders are cut to headspace the cartridge. You just need to poke them out one at a time. No mangled moonclips with a proper tool. I've been using the same ones for years.

The information about using ACP ammunition without moonclips is correct for the Model 25-2 and earlier revolvers. I am not sure about the Model 22-4s but it is usable in the three I have.

Starting with the stainless 45 ACP revolvers, some cylinders were cut with deeper chambers and unsupported ACP ammunition will NOT fire in them. To make it worse, it is not all of the cylinders that are effected and sometimes not even all the chambers in a cylinder. The only way to know is to try them.

I have been shooting ACP revolvers since the 70s. Using the correct tools properly will prevent bending the clips. So will 45 AR cases.

(amended for additional information.) I have also used 45 GAP ammunition (in moonclips), in my Model 625 and Model 22-4. I do not recommended it for use in any earlier revolvers.

Which revolver would I recommend? I prefer the classic look of the older revolvers so I would say anything without the full underlug.

Kevin

[Model19man]

I use a pencil to remove the 45 ACP empties from moon clips. No issues. Eraser end of course.

[.38SuperMan]

I gotta say the blue on 25’s makes for a beautiful revolver but stainless is easy to take care of. I’m a fan of both but have my 2nd 4” 625-2 and wouldn’t part with it with the exception of a 5”. Either way, blue or stainless, shoot it and enjoy it.

[series guy]

This one shot many a round in bullseye competition before I picked it up. It is a pre model marked gun. It is still tight and accurate. Of course I also like my 625s. Moon clips are awesome but do increase ammo consumption.

[sodacan]

Originally Posted by StrawHat

The information about using ACP ammunition without moonclips is correct for the Model 25-2 and earlier revolvers. I am not sure about the Model 22-4s but it is usable in the three I have.

Starting with the stainless 45 ACP revolvers, some cylinders were cut with deeper chambers and unsupported ACP ammunition will NOT fire in them. To make it worse, it is not all of the cylinders that are effected and sometimes not even all the chambers in a cylinder. The only way to know is to try them.

I have been shooting ACP revolvers since the 70s. Using the correct tools properly will prevent bending the clips. So will 45 AR cases. I have also used 45 GAP ammunition (in moonclips).

Which revolver would I recommend? I prefer the classic look of the older revolvers so I would say anything without the full underlug.

Kevin

The 1st production Colt 1917's had chambers that were bored straight through, and had their cylinders replaced. Also, I have read that some early 625's would not take 45acp without clips. I also shoot 45gap, but only in the 625-2 because of the higher pressure. It may work in the 1950 and 1955, but I'm not willing to take a chance. I'd never consider it for the 1917 models.

[StrawHat]

Originally Posted by sodacan

The 1st production Colt 1917's had chambers that were bored straight through, and had their cylinders replaced. Also, I have read that some early 625's would not take 45acp without clips. I also shoot 45gap, but only in the 625-2 because of the higher pressure. It may work in the 1950 and 1955, but I'm not willing to take a chance. I'd never consider it for the 1917 models.

Correct about the GAP, only in the newer revolvers. I will amend my post so as not to misguide anyone.

Kevin

[bill-in-texas]

OP,
Welcome to the forum; you've come to the right place for all information Smith & Wesson, and you'll find no shortage of Model of 1955 fans, here.

If memory serves, I paid an even grand for my 25-2 featured in the following thread, last year:

Scored a Pristine 25-2!

As you can see, my octogenarian dad had no issues firing .45 acp from the vaunted N-Frame. I'm sure you'll love it when you find yours.

-Bill

[StrawHat]

Here is the Model 25-2 I bought to compete in PPC, turns out this barrel was 1/2” too long for certified competitions! I never did locate a 6” barreled version.



And this is the first 45 ACP Target Revolver offered by S&W as a standard production model, the Model 1950.



The difference is in the barrel taper and it does make a difference in the way it feels in your hand. Jim Clark got one to use in Bullseye Competition and said it would not shoot accurately with his loads. He tells the story better,



The only difference is the barrel contour. The rifling stayed the same so I am not sure why his loads suddenly started working in the Model 1955?

Kevin