S&W 1917 Grip Frame Dimensions

salish25

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Hello,

I have a question about the grip frame dimensions on 1917 .45ACP revolvers and I hope someone can help me. I have two 1917 revolvers, one a commercial nickel plated revolver, and the other a Brazilian contract military model. The nickel commercial model did not come with it's original S&W stocks, but instead my dad purchased it with 1980's Pachmayer rubber stocks. The Brazilian gun came with the usual wooden stocks that are normally associated with those revolvers. As nice as the Pachmayers are at absorbing recoil, they're too large for my hands. I removed these grips and installed the wooden grips from the Brazilian gun and much to my surprise, the wooden grips are too large for the grip frame on the nickel gun. The wood from the front of the stocks closest to the trigger guard jutt out from the frame by a good 1/8", maybe even more. So the frame on the nickel gun is smaller. Was this normal with commercial vs. military contract guns? The serial number on this nickel gun is 177902. Or could the frame on my nickel gun have been reduced to fit a smaller hand? Maybe a factory request? It's very puzzling to me. I would like to get a more traditional pair of grips for this gun but now I'm leery of searching for S&W 1917 grips. Can any she some light on this for me?
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Welcome to the forum.

The grip frames are all the same, there was only one size. It was modified and not by the factory. Although originally a blue gun, it was then nickel plated.

You have four options, one easy with no cost, and the other three with some cost:

1. Get a correct pair of factory stocks then make a small wood wedge to fill the space where metal was removed from the grip frame. Glue it to one side of the grips, assemble the grips on the gun and sand the wedge down even with the factory grips. Finish with Birch Wood Casey "True Oil".

2. Install a set of post WWII factory target grips; they will cover the missing metal. Although you may not like the target grip size, you can always trim them down to a size you like and refinish with True Oil.

3. Order a set of custom grips to fit your hand that have wood over the front grip strap (like the factory targets) to cover the spot of missing metal.

4. Have a micro welder build up the grip frame to it's original size by welding. Grind, file and polish to original dimension and metal finish. Polished to a shine it will blend in with the nickel and hardly show. Or have the gun gun re-plated (but not worth the extra cost in my opinion.)
 
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Those are a couple of nice old S&W's.

You might alter a set of grips to fit the grip frame. Buy a set of 1917 grips and draw an outline. Cut and sand to fit the altered frame.

I bought a 1917 knowing that it had been converted to a round frame. It was wearing Pach's when I got it. It was a nice job of rounding the frame but it was not a standard K or N frame round butt.

At the time Mr Grashorn was still taking custom orders so I sent him a drawing of the grip frame. He sent an oversized piece and I outlined the grip frame frame and sent them back to him. Once they arrived back it only required minor fitting to make them look pretty good.

Tim
 

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Thanks Jim & Tim, you've both given me options to consider, and for that I thank you. I had no idea these were the case with this revolver. I have an idea that I may purchase the wood stocks and try nd fit them to the frame as Tim suggests. Do either of you have an idea of when this revolver might have been manufaactured? The serial number is 177902. Thanks again.
 
Thanks Jim & Tim, you've both given me options to consider, and for that I thank you. I had no idea these were the case with this revolver. I have an idea that I may purchase the wood stocks and try nd fit them to the frame as Tim suggests. Do either of you have an idea of when this revolver might have been manufaactured? The serial number is 177902. Thanks again.

It probably shipped in the mid 1920s.

I have a commercial 1917 with a 180xxx serial number. Many of the 1917s in the SN range shipped in the early 1930s. Mine shipped in 1936. It must have been waay back in the vault. Only a historical letter can give you the exact date.
 
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