So I went to the show in Tucson yesterday, not a lot of vendors set up. First guy I saw had an old S&W obviously renickeled. I asked “whats the Smith”. He said $200, $150 if you buy it right now. Checked out the mechanics and bore and they were perfect so I bought it.
The stocks are wood and either sanded or well worn, no number’s underneath.
I’ve been trying to figure what it is, I think it’s a 1st model 38 M&P because of the non locking ejector rod, but it doesn’t have a top strap cylinder lock so Ive been going down this rabbit hole without luck. Could it be a 2nd model M&P with a first model barrel? All numbers match, barrel, cylinder and frame. Here are a few pics. Regardless for $150 it was a no brainer.
The extractor rod knobs on 1899s are prone to unscrewing and falling off and originals are essentially impossible to find. I think someone here was once selling replica knobs but that was long ago. What is the SN? Indeed the wood grips are the "deep dish" medallion style of the teens. Original grips were probably made of black hard rubber. Replica K-frame grips of that type are available.
This looks like a 1899 with a replaced extractor rod nob, and grips from the 1910-1920 period that have been incompletely sanded. The barrel should have a caliber roll marking on the left side, so maybe it's been replaced.
Barring unusual circumstances, the left side of the barrel would have a caliber roll marking close to the frame, like ".38 S&W SPECIAL CTG" . If you hold the gun up to a good light, and maybe using a magnifying glass, is there anything on the left side of the barrel that looks like that caliber marking, or maybe anything resembling a portion of it?
This looks like a 1899 with a replaced extractor rod nob, and grips from the 1910-1920 period that have been incompletely sanded. The barrel should have a caliber roll marking on the left side, so maybe it's been replaced.
Mike Priwer
I have 2 of these guns (actually one is on the way) - one with knob and one without. I have a lathe and knurling tool, I am going to try and duplicate the one knob I have. I can grind tools to get the right radii, getting the knurl close may be the issue.
I have 2 of these guns (actually one is on the way) - one with knob and one without. I have a lathe and knurling tool, I am going to try and duplicate the one knob I have. I can grind tools to get the right radii, getting the knurl close may be the issue.
Someone must have put Loctite on my gun, the knob won't budge and I don't want to push it. I can easily copy the outside - does anyone have one out of a gun to tell me the threads and how long the threaded shank is?
I bought a repro knob from Samuel Simmons (hoxycar870 on eBay). It looks good (much better than a screw stuck in the end that it came with). If anyone wants Samuel's contact info, I will gladly share.
Mine is all original including numbered stocks but probably re-blued at one time. Serial# 9296. Just applied pink Loctite to the ejector knob, it does unscrew too easily without. Shoots great too. Cool revolver for sure.
It's got those nice deep dished medallions in the grips too.
Re-checkering the orig pattern within the remaining borders would bring them right back to life.
Neat gun!