Looking at a 1917 military conversion. It has
a shortened 1955 barrel with I believe is the
orig. cylinder. Ramp from sight fastened with
a screw.S&W adj. rear sight. 70 % finish.
No push off or end play. Timing is right on.
Not pretty. $600.00 total cost.

A functioning N frame for $600? That is not a bad thing. But, how do you intend to use it? As a shooter? Not too bad. As a restoration project? Need photos to help with that. I have several ACP revolvers that I built or salvaged. Most will tell you save you money for a better example.

Me? Like I said, get us some good photos and let us help you spend, or save, your money.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Like Kevin wrote.......need pictures!

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

LGS will not permit photos taken.
This will be a shooter not for restoration

Then as the old saying goes...."You pay your dime and you take your chance."

As along as it functions fine both single and double action. there is no end shake, the crane isn't bent and it locks up tight.........then it probably is worth it. "Truck Gun"?

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

I second Kevin's motion......Ben

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Cogito, ergo BOOM!...

A third country heard from...........

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

A short-barreled 1917 in good shooting order?

Yes, please.

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Mark Lathem

They do make nice packing pieces of iron.



Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Go for it!
I would if I had the opportunity!

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NRA Endowment Member

If you buy it you can take all the pictures you want.

Check the barrel for corrosion.They had corrosive ammo for many years after the 1917s were built and many have nasty bores.

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My Daddy was a pistol..

That goes for any 45 ACP handgun. Folks were using corrosively primed ammunition into the 60s and 70s because it they were to cheap to buy non corrosive.

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Lately this little conversion has become my go to piece that is always with me when I go to the range, I don't often shoot it but carry as if I plan to. Someone on this site helped me with the cockeye hammer which is something I like very much. I have always been a single action shooter and never really took the time to learn how to use a double action revolver properly. Continuing to use them single action. I'm competent double action...just a little more sure of myself single action. I have heard from my friends that I would be at a disadvantage but have never had a problem putting my first shot right where I want it.

About 98% of the folks that I see at the range shoot all revolvers single action. Most of the rest that try double action have trouble hitting a 3 square foot target at 7 yards. Double action shooting is an art that must be develpoed over time....

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USMC 69-93 Combat Pistol Inst.

There are nice conversions and then there are parts thrown together. That gun sounds like a mess to me, but for a pure shooter it might be OK, however, there's no way I'd pay $600.00 for it, maybe half that.

That's an interesting observation that I don't necessarily disagree with, but I am an avid revolver shooter, and almost never shoot single action. As a a result, after decades of shooting, my trigger control is, let's say, above average. Generally, when I'm shooting I have the only wheel gun on the line, and I'll be shooting better at 20 yards than most of the mag dumpers shooting at five.

Been shooting double action for six decades. I know what you mean. A lot of sideways glances at my old wheel gun until the shooting starts!


New barrels are still available for 1917s but so are adjustable rear sights for completing the package, which might be the route I would pursue. A long action Target revolver in 45 ACP, not a bad choice!

Kevin

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Unshared knowledge is wasted.

Orig cyl'r will be #'d to the frame.
Is the S&W adj rear sight that's installed a standard Post War style,,or perhaps by good fortune is's maybe a Pre-War adj rear sight?

Either way, look under the top strap (open the cylinder) and look at the attachment D&T work. Make sure who ever did it didn't make several attempts at it and leave the Swiss Cheese look with more holes than is needed.
Try the Elevation on the sight as well to make sure the T-Slot is actually done and the special T-Nut is in place (Post War Style sight) and you actually have elevation adjustment and the it's not just an ornament sight sitting on top of the frame.
Pre-War sight will use the tiny elevation screw.

Does the rib on the 1955 bbl leave a gap where it meets the M&P style 1917 frame? Or did the conversion include a piece welded or otherwise fixed into place at the front of the frame to make the transition from bbl rib to frame contour a smooth one on the same elevation.

Maybe they removed the bbl rib altogether to match the 1917 M&P frame front edge contour!

Was the frame possibly bent when bbl off, bbl on opperations were done?
Check the fit of the crane to the frame not only at the front, but at the top straight edge of the crane(yoke) where it slips into place in the frame cut.
There it should fit into place with a minimum of space betw the two parts.
Look at the edges of the cylinder opening all around for marks indicating a leverage bar was inserted and used in levering the frame off of the bbl instead of a bbl vise and wrench.
A wooden handle of some sorts won't leave any marks, but some use a piece of pipe or CRS to do the deed.


What sort of front sight ramp is in place?
Is it absolutely '12 o;clock top-side' and check carefully to make sure the attachment screw does not enter the bore,,or even start to push out the metal into the bore by having been drilled/tapped too close to the bore itself.

Lots to check for, but it could be a decent shooter,,
Or it could be some's home gunsmith'd problem child up for adoption.