Idea thread - what would you do with it?

[Shotguncoach]

Another lowball placeholder bid came through with this thing. It was described as a ".32-20 Hand Ejector frame with sideplate". The sideplate is there, along with the cylinder release thumbpiece, thumbpiece nut, bolt, cylinder stop, and possibly the cylinder stop plunger/spring/screw. According to the description there are 6(!!!) bullets stuck in the bore. I don't know the serial number yet. The winning bid was $55 so it's not like I'm into it for a lot of money.

At the very bottom end of the spectrum, it could be a source of a few parts for someone who is restoring a better example. It could be a stock making test frame, or it could be part of a neat shadowbox display.

At the top end? It'll never be a museum piece and whatever money is spent on it will never be recovered....but that's never stopped many of us before. If the frame is not damaged in the barrel thread area it would be fun to make a franken-gun shooter out of it in a low pressure caliber.

What would you do with it?

[Muley Gil]

Sell it to me and I'll rebuild it. I have enough extra parts.

[MaxKimber]

The Six Million Dollar Man comes to mind...

[raljr1]

Rd butt, K frame 32 S&W Long


Robert
SWCA #2906, SWHF #760

[mikepriwer]

With 6 bullets in the bore, there may be more than one bulge in it. That would be one problem.

It is not a target frame, so even if it were to be made functional, it's not going to be worth a lot of money.

This project reminds me of the Johnny Cash song about building a Cadillac from parts carried out in his lunchbox!

Regards, Mike Priwer

[cgt4570]

Like Muley, I should also have all the pieces to make it whole again. It isn't target sighted, so it isn't a scarce .32WCF. You could just as easily make it a .38 M&P so you can afford to shoot it. .32-20 ammo has been high $ and hard to find.

Or just keep it as-is as a conversation piece paperweight.

[paplinker]

I would be looking around for a snubby bbl.

Would be great with that round butt.

[Oldengineer]

Put a toilet brush on the end of the barrel and return it to service.

[arjay]

Hang it over a door from an old nail through the trigger gaurd

[StrawHat]

Rebuild it! Either a 32 WCF or 38 S&W Special.

Kevin

[drgbike]

that frame is way better than several l I have rescued, be a shame not to fix it up.

[Shotguncoach]

I've been surfing this morning and I have a long action hammer, trigger, and rebound slide on the way. Like paplinker, I'm leaning towards the snubby idea. It's gotta be a half moon front sight though....

.38 special would be easy, but I'm not against some flavor of .32 or maybe .38 S&W. We'll see what turns up.

[Shotguncoach]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

With 6 bullets in the bore, there may be more than one bulge in it. That would be one problem.

It is not a target frame, so even if it were to be made functional, it's not going to be worth a lot of money.

This project reminds me of the Johnny Cash song about building a Cadillac from parts carried out in his lunchbox!

Regards, Mike Priwer

I agree about the barrel. Right now I like the idea of pulling the barrel, leaving the slugs inside, and putting the whole thing on the bandsaw lengthwise to cut it all in half. That would make a neat addition to a shadowbox.

[Hondo44]

The photos aren’t very clear but I don’t see any barrel bulging. Let us know if it’s bulged when you get it home.

[DWalt]

Many years ago I ran across a revolver plugged full of lead bullets (it wasn't mine). I melted them out with a propane torch. No obvious bulges in the barrel.

[Retired W4]

You need to stay away from the person who kept shooting it when nothing was coming out.

[delta-419]

Soft lead "gummy bears" may indeed have stopped it up. Let us know what you find. I started to bid on that one as I too have enough parts to fix it right.

[MelvinWalker]

How six bullets went down the bore without exploding it, makes me amazed. It may be the reason the cylinder is missing though.

I probably have all the parts to fix it...I would imagine most early M&P kits could be fitted to it.

[RKmesa]

Originally Posted by paplinker

I would be looking around for a snubby bbl.

Would be great with that round butt.

Plus one for this idea! A well worn RB pre-war frame 38 Spl snub =

[Truckman]

Originally Posted by RKmesa

Plus one for this idea! A well worn RB pre-war frame 38 Spl snub =

OOooh!...I wouldn't mind having that to go with my SB 1927 M&P Target snub!...Of course then I would have to find a matching pair of stags for that one too......Ben

[StrawHat]

Originally Posted by Truckman

OOooh!...I wouldn't mind having that to go with my SB 1927 M&P Target snub!...Of course then I would have to find a matching pair of stags for that one too......Ben

Stags are the easiest part of that problem!

Let me know what you want!

Kevin

[dwh]

I’d build a 3in round butt 32-20. See who has one of those at the bbq. I’m currently working on that exact project now except I’m going with kings super police sights.

[Llance]

If I remember correctly, there is a 4 inch heavy barrel hidden away in the dungeon. I'm fairly certain that it could be made to fit it. A fair offer $65.00
plus shipping for your frame and parts.

Llance

[2152hq]

I'd probably go the .22rf path.
Drill out the mess in the bbl and re-line.
Replace the cyl with a K22 cyl. Yes they are harder to find but still out there and kind of $$. But you don't have much in the gun anyway.

Either convert the current CF firing pin to a RF, or close up the CF system and install a K22 style FP.
...Oh,,and change the caliber marking,,completely repolish and engrave, maybe a touch of gold line inlay,,make Ivory or fancy Euro Walnut grips for it w/ checkering and use orig S&W early medallions too. Not too much to ask on a project is it?

$55 dollar project guns,,gotta love 'em,,,,I do!

That,,or convert to a 38spec 2".
A pre-war snub is pretty special.
Find a pre-war Target sight and make it a Target sighted P/War snub.

Can you tell I like projects.

[Truckman]

Originally Posted by 2152hq

That,,or convert to a 38spec 2".
A pre-war snub is pretty special.
Find a pre-war Target sight and make it a Target sighted P/War snub.

By coincidence I have one of those loaded and standing by on my dresser right now......Ben

[mikepriwer]

Did someone say 3" barrel ? Here is a 3" 1899 .38 target, along with a 2 1/2" 1899 .38 target. The tapered barrels were made and rifled by the factory, with forged front sight base. The revolver with the shorter extractor rod is the 2 1/2" one.





The last picture is a target that was shot with the 3" revolver.



Regards, Mike Priwer

[JohnRippert]

Mill the side of the barrel off to show all the squibs. Then hang it on the wall.

[raljr1]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

Did someone say 3" barrel ? Here is a 3" 1899 .38 target, along with a 2 1/2" 1899 .38 target. The tapered barrels were made and rifled by the factory, with forged front sight base. The revolver with the shorter extractor rod is the 2 1/2" one.





The last picture is a target that was shot with the 3" revolver.



Regards, Mike Priwer

Damn. Mr. Priwer, between you and RKMesa, I commit the sin of envy with regularity.

[Mike, SC Hunter]

Originally Posted by Shotguncoach

I agree about the barrel. Right now I like the idea of pulling the barrel, leaving the slugs inside, and putting the whole thing on the bandsaw lengthwise to cut it all in half. That would make a neat addition to a shadowbox.

Soak the bore in Kroil/diesel fuel or kerosene. Put gun in padded vice. Heat outside of barrel with a heat gun or hair dryer. Get a BRASS or COPPER punch and tap the bullets out.

[Shotguncoach]

It finally arrived and I got to take a look at it while I was checking it in. There are five distinct bulges in the barrel, and the bullets appear to be either jacketed or plated.

The area of the frame around the barrel threads does not appear to be bulged and measures .820" on the outside. I'll have to go measure one of my other K frames to cross check that. The rest of the frame appears to be in really good shape. It should make a fun summer project.

[mikepriwer]

With five (5) bulges in the barrel, I'd drive out the barrel pin, and remove the barrel. I don't think it's worth salvaging, as it is. Several good ideas have been suggested, and there appears to be some donor parts available.

The frame has the keyway slot for the new (circa 1908 - 1910) trigger rebound slide. After removing and saving the studs, I've given early round butt frames to grip makers. One from this time period would be helpful to them.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Regards, Mike Priwer

[MelvinWalker]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

With five (5) bulges in the barrel, I'd drive out the barrel pin, and remove the barrel. I don't think it's worth salvaging, as it is. Several good ideas have been suggested, and there appears to be some donor parts available.

The frame has the keyway slot for the new (circa 1908 - 1910) trigger rebound slide. After removing and saving the studs, I've given early round butt frames to grip makers. One from this time period would be helpful to them.

Let us know what you decide to do.

Regards, Mike Priwer

What models and years would work for him to come up with a .38 Special solution? I might have some donations for him to help him give this poor gun summertime CPR.

[mikepriwer]

The frame has a 32-20 serial number, so 38 special might not be the best choice. In the 38 special world, that serial number would correspond to a 1902 1st change; as a 32-20, its a 1905 1st change. Changing the caliber to 38 will cause a loss of compatibility with Neal & Jinks definitions.

Generally, with some caveats, almost anything from 1908 up to WW2 will work.

Using a very early trigger rebound slide with a key on its backside will probably require a hammer of the same time period. A later slide without the key might make it easier to find functional hammers and triggers.

The current barrel, if salvaged, has relief cuts for the large mushroom extractor rod nob. Whatever barrel is to be used would want to have the proper relief cuts for whatever extractor rod is used.

Theses are only some of the issues that may come up. Good gunsmithing skills can deal with these situations.

Regards, Mike Priwer

[MelvinWalker]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

Theses are only some of the issues that may come up. Good gunsmithing skills can deal with these situations.

Regards, Mike Priwer

I looked and I don't have any parts kits that old at all. Plenty of K frame kits from the 1960's newer etc.

[mikepriwer]

The parts for these older guns never came in kits! Places like Numrich, and others, sell older parts, but these are salvaged from older guns. There are companies that buy clunker old guns, salvage the parts that are useable, and sell them on ebay, etc.

[MelvinWalker]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

The parts for these older guns never came in kits! Places like Numrich, and others, sell older parts, but these are salvaged from older guns. There are companies that buy clunker old guns, salvage the parts that are useable, and sell them on ebay, etc.

That's what I have, from destroyed guns. Everything but the frame.. Most of mine came from destroyed guns from buybacks. Some really nice guns have been destroyed over the years with these silly notions. Ebay is full of them and so is Gunbroker. Back when prices were better, you could buy 686 kits with target grips. I even bought an engraved Model 60 kit.

I posted about it a few months ago...See pic.

[Shotguncoach]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed and dug through their various parts bins. I appreciate it.

I fully understand that what I'm intending to do will result in a frankengun that has no value other than as a shooter (and to my kids, something that Dad built). For me, this is an exercise in education and entertainment. Any round butt K-frame will do....this just happened to be the one that popped up. If someone feels strongly that this frame shouldn't be used for a frankengun, just make me an offer that I can't refuse.

The serial number is 34642, which I believe makes it a Model of 1905, 2nd Change (SCSW 4th ed, pg150-151). Here are the barrel markings and a shot of the barrel with a straightedge alongside it showing the bulges.





These are the parts kits that I have available, and as I said before, I don't mind having a mixmaster. Prior to trying to fit anything, my thought is to use the internal frame parts from the first kit and the barrel/cylinder/yoke from the second. If I've done my research correctly, I think I also have the option of just using the second kit and ending up with a transitional hammer. There is no provision for a hammer block in the original sideplate, so if I go that route the hammer block pin on the rebound slide would have to come off. I'm also fully aware that no matter what I do it will end up as a "carry with an empty chamber under the hammer" gun unless there is a miracle and the hammer block sideplate happens to fit.

[BC38]

Originally Posted by mikepriwer

...This project reminds me of the Johnny Cash song about building a Cadillac from parts carried out in his lunchbox!

I got it one piece at a time, and it didn't cost me a dime...
You'll know it's me when I come to your town...!
Great old song!

[jeffrefrig]

Rebuild it? I really look up to people with much more talent than I.
I AM in the camp of slicing that barrel as an education/display wall mount. How do they know there are six bullets stuck in there? I would seriously think anyone who would keep firing 6 times with nothing coming out the other end of the gun wouldn't have the mental ability to count all the way to six.