Airweight 38 Special CTG
- Thread starter Dedduc
- Start date
Model19man
SWCA Member
Pictures needed.
ACORN
Member
No enough info to tell you much.
If you look inside the yoke cut on the frame there maybe a model no. Like 38 or 37 possibly a dash followed by another number.
Also get the serial number off the butt.
Pics will help also.
If you look inside the yoke cut on the frame there maybe a model no. Like 38 or 37 possibly a dash followed by another number.
Also get the serial number off the butt.
Pics will help also.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Sent P.M. to OP asking for model number and SN. We will see if he responds to the PM or by an additional post.
Welcome aboard from ol' Wyo.
The first one -- 129120 -- could be a Chiefs Special Airweight or a Bodyguard.
The second one is almost assuredly a Chiefs Special Airweight, but it could be a Centennial Airweight. If it's a Centennial it would be stamped MOD-42 on the frame in what you call the "cut out."
Please help us help you. Read this thread, and get back to us:
To IDENTIFY your Gun >
The first one -- 129120 -- could be a Chiefs Special Airweight or a Bodyguard.
The second one is almost assuredly a Chiefs Special Airweight, but it could be a Centennial Airweight. If it's a Centennial it would be stamped MOD-42 on the frame in what you call the "cut out."
Please help us help you. Read this thread, and get back to us:
To IDENTIFY your Gun >
Alk8944
US Veteran
Sent OP follow-up PM asking for clarification.
Alk8944
US Veteran
Dedduc,
From your pictures and description that / those would be Model 37s or "pre" Model 37s. the 5 digit SN would be ca. 1953, and the 6 digit number between 1957 and 1962. If there is a letter J prefix to those numbers the first would be between 1969 or 1970, and the second from 1973 or 1974. The rubber grips are after-market, not original to the gun. Any letters associated with the butt number are part of the SN. These dates are from the "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson", 3rd edition.
From your pictures and description that / those would be Model 37s or "pre" Model 37s. the 5 digit SN would be ca. 1953, and the 6 digit number between 1957 and 1962. If there is a letter J prefix to those numbers the first would be between 1969 or 1970, and the second from 1973 or 1974. The rubber grips are after-market, not original to the gun. Any letters associated with the butt number are part of the SN. These dates are from the "Standard Catalog of Smith & Wesson", 3rd edition.
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That helps a little. Both are Chiefs Special Airweights.
The square butt -- 29195 -- probably has an aluminum cylinder, if so it's one of 923 square butts with the aluminum cylinder. It's built on the four-screw frame, and it might also have a small retainer screw on the upper side plate screw. It likely shipped in the summer of 1953.
The round butt wearing Pachmayr Compac grips likely shipped in summer 1958 -- right before the company introduced model numbers. It has a steel cylinder, and it's built on the three-screw frame. The Chiefs Special Airweight added Model 37 to its name beginning in September 1958.
The square butt -- 29195 -- probably has an aluminum cylinder, if so it's one of 923 square butts with the aluminum cylinder. It's built on the four-screw frame, and it might also have a small retainer screw on the upper side plate screw. It likely shipped in the summer of 1953.
The round butt wearing Pachmayr Compac grips likely shipped in summer 1958 -- right before the company introduced model numbers. It has a steel cylinder, and it's built on the three-screw frame. The Chiefs Special Airweight added Model 37 to its name beginning in September 1958.
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Alk8944
US Veteran
Probably $400-600 each. Put them in a want-to-sell here on the forum, you will probably get a better response and price from interested members!
Not an expert, but I think the guns would bring more than $400-600. Maybe three years ago I sold a newer Model 37 for $650 if I recall. It was in very nice condition. Yours are not quite as nice, but my guess is that pre model marked guns from the 50's would bring more.
Please take more photos of both sides without a white background (use dull gray).
The key is "condition."
Also, look to see if either frame is cracked on the flat spot below where the barrel protrudes. (See the attached photo.) If so you have a paperweight -- no value.
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DWalt
Member
That is ALWAYS the first place to inspect on any alloy-frame revolver for the presence of a crack. If there is one, it is worth only whatever the usable parts in it can be sold for. Just me personally, but I will not even bother to look at any alloy-framed revolver, S&W or Colt. Never have, never will. Even if there is no crack, who's to say there won't be one after the next shot is fired. Others having a greater degree of confidence than I can do as they wish.
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