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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 04-26-2024, 10:21 PM
danmd777 danmd777 is offline
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Hello. I just found a pre K-38 4 screw 6 inch serial K 90XXX that has a satin finish. Is this a factory finish, before I send for a letter? Most of the ones I have seen are polished blue. Thanks in advance
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Old 04-26-2024, 11:34 PM
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It probably shipped in 1950, so the satin finish is normal.

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pre K-38 4 screw 6 inch serial K 90XXX
First, it should have five screws at that serial number. The fourth and fifth screws are in the front of the trigger guard and high on the sideplate, respectively.

Also, it isn't a "pre K-38." It is a K-38 Masterpiece. You could call it a "pre-Model 14" if you are so inclined. Model numbers first appeared in 1958.
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Old 04-27-2024, 07:38 AM
rct269 rct269 is offline
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In the for what it's worth category, the explanation for the Satin Blue finish (also known as the funky finish) goes like this----possibly an "Old wive's tale", but with elements of truth: The polishers are regarded as the most skilled of all the production employees---and it takes a loooooooooooong time to develop those skills. Skilled employees are in short supply following WWII. What to do?!!

Develop a finishing process which does not require polishing, and use it until such time as the neophyte polishing folks get up to speed. Right about here is where I start running my mouth without knowing what I'm talking about---that being the facts of the matter. I'm told the preparation process for the funky finish requires no polishing---that it's accomplished by blasting with an unknown media---I've heard crushed walnut shells. (I know they do a first class job of stripping paint from metal, but that's all I know.) At any rate, the Bright Blue finish (which requires EXPERT polishing) was in short supply at the time----and for a time following WWII.

And I hope you won't call it a "pre" anything! I've always considered the folks using such lingo do so because they don't know the proper name of the predecessor----and don't wish to display their ignorance.

Ralph Tremaine

As an aside, the polishing of a S&W (hand ejector) revolver is more than a difficult task because of all the varying surfaces. Have a look---count 'em---and then compare them to any other maker's product. Dealing with those many surfaces was accomplished with the use of hard leather formed polishing wheels---Walrus hide, so I've been told, one each for every surface on every product---and duplicates so more than one polisher can be at work at any given time. I've seen photographs of these wheels hanging on racks in the factory---a BIG BUNCH of them!! The very best of the aftermarket (re) finishers polish by hand. That sort of thing brings to mind the saying "This is serious business--bring money!"

Last edited by rct269; 04-27-2024 at 08:02 AM.
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Old 04-27-2024, 09:41 AM
Hawg Rider Hawg Rider is offline
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Welcome to the Forum! You've got a great start to a fine collection with that 5-screw K-38. They are great revolvers and have been used for very accurate target shooting for a long time! I'm sure that this one will not be your last S&W revolver! Congratulations, and enjoy!
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Old 04-27-2024, 12:06 PM
danmd777 danmd777 is offline
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Thanks again for the replies. It is indeed a 5 screw K 38. My mistake
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Old 04-27-2024, 07:29 PM
jmart172 jmart172 is offline
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I also have a K 38, #90xxx dated to 1950. It has the satin finish.
I inherited from my grandfather, it will never leave the family
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Old 04-27-2024, 08:16 PM
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Bead blasting, but I do not know what media was used. I'd say aluminum oxide, but there are several other blasting media types. I wouldn't think walnut shells. And it does take only a small fraction of the skill, time, and effort vs. using polishing wheels.
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Old 04-27-2024, 11:31 PM
rct269 rct269 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DWalt View Post
Bead blasting, but I do not know what media was used. I'd say aluminum oxide, but there are several other blasting media types. I wouldn't think walnut shells. And it does take only a small fraction of the skill, time, and effort vs. using polishing wheels.
It does indeed take only a small fraction of skill, time and effort---once you've established what I'll call the set-up. Now if all you're doing is cleaning stuff, pretty much anything will do, but if you're after a certain surface or finish (for lack of better terms) there are several variables to be established---what media (and size), the line pressure, the distance from the nozzle to the work piece, and the angle of attack to name what are likely the most important. All I've ever done with it is clean engine parts, but I fooled around with it enough to learn the end product (the finish) will vary significantly when changes are made.

Ralph Tremaine
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