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S&W Hand Ejectors: 1896 to 1961 All 5-Screw & Vintage 4-Screw SWING-OUT Cylinder REVOLVERS, and the 35 Autos and 32 Autos


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Old 06-12-2015, 02:05 AM
pdx pdx is offline
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Default Grip pin question

I just picked up a minty 1949 5" round butt Military & Police in .38 after a long search.

I have a great set of pearl grips for it but the grip pin isn't centered on the frame, it sticks out farther on the right side. As I'd rather not deepen the hole in the grip, does anyone know if the grip pin can be pressed or tapped into center, or is it off-set by design?

Last edited by pdx; 06-12-2015 at 04:49 AM.
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:14 AM
grif684 grif684 is offline
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It should be centered, you can tap it over with a brass punch.
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Old 06-12-2015, 04:40 AM
pdx pdx is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by grif684 View Post
It should be centered, you can tap it over with a brass punch.
Thanks grif!
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Old 06-12-2015, 05:22 AM
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Be sure to soak the pin with WD-40 or equivalent before tapping it. They can be stubborn to move after many years. If you have to tap it excessively, you can mushroom the end of it. Then it will not fit the hole in the grips and can split or chip those MOP grips!

If it takes excessive force to move the pin, use the handle of a tooth brush or something softer than brass between the pin and the hammer! Or don't use a brass hammer, use a plastic tipped hammer.
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Old 06-12-2015, 01:13 PM
rct269 rct269 is online now
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Better yet, put the hammer/punch et al back in the box----and build a sandwich----thus:

The bread: The jaws of your vise---suitably protected with a non marring substance----mine are copper.

The filling: A bench block (or a piece of wood with a hole in it)---and the grip frame. The grip frame goes against the bench block----with the pin in the hole. The other end of the pin is against the opposing (protected) vise jaw.

The procedure: Crank the vise jaws together. The first thing that will happen is you'll hear a little "pop" when the pin breaks loose. At that point the pin will move easily, and can be adjusted with micrometer precision.

Case on point: I was installing a pre-war grip adapter. The pin was off center such that it was not engaging with one of the grip panels. No problem. I grabbed a hammer, and a nylon tipped punch, and proceeded to wammity-bam on the pin. I succeeded in denting the end of my punch. The pin stayed right where it was. The real problem here was the surface under the gun was inappropriate---in that it would yield---thereby absorbing (too much of) the force of the hammer. Off to the vise. Case closed.

Ralph Tremaine

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Old 06-12-2015, 02:00 PM
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Ralph,

Wow, I can't recall ever having such a stubborn pin. But a very excellent solution, you have; works on the 'sight pusher' principle for press fitting parts, bearings, etc. And yes a very controlled and precise method of movement! Thx for sharing with us.
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Old 06-12-2015, 03:11 PM
rct269 rct269 is online now
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Well, as noted, the pin wasn't the real problem. The real problem was the card table I was calling upon to suffice as a proper workbench. It didn't.

So off to the garage/shop I went, where I have two proper work benches; but the press routine was in my mind----and it was a vastly superior solution to cleaning off a work bench to create enough room to work. I'll get to those benches another day.

RT

All that said, I too was more than a little surprised when that pin popped (POP!!!) as it broke loose. The gun is old---almost as old as I am; but it's like brand new, and I didn't figure it to be nearly as cranky as I am.

Last edited by rct269; 06-12-2015 at 03:19 PM.
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