Need Help With this Old Chief

[TexasTech69]

Picked up this old Chief last week. He's missing some of his nickel on the cylinder and was wearing faux pearl stocks. This five-screw special has all the serial and assembly numbers in the right places. However, there are no "N's" stamped by s/n on the bottom of the barrel, on the back of the cylinder under the extractor star or on the lower left side of grip frame. Reckon it was blue and someone sent it back for a nickel plate?

I'm guessing it shipped out early 1950's, maybe 1952.

Now for you experts: is it worth putting more money in it for a re-nickel job and looking around for some diamond magna grips? If so, where would I send it for refinish?

Excuse the pics, a photographer I am Not!!

Thanks in advance for any help.

RW

[gmborkovic]

Mr. RW, hammer and trigger appear to be plated? Along with cyl release.
How much did you pay for it? Go shoot it and put in your back pocket.

[two-bit cowboy]

You're exactly right. Not a factory original nickel job.

Your photos are fine.

Likely shipped in October/November 1952.

It's your Chiefs Special. I wouldn't spend the money on a refinish or the correct magna stocks.

[Hondo44]

You’re right it was originally blue but it didn’t go back to the factory for the nickel plating. The hammer and trigger would have case hardened swirly colors and there would be a star after the butt serial number.

Is it worth replating depends on how much you payed it, but probably not.

It’s known as a Baby Chiefs, 2nd version if the top edge of ramp sight blade is smooth and not serrated.

[TexasTech69]

I stuck my neck out and paid $250 for the Chief.

It has the serrated ramp front sight.

Thanks guys for your imput.

[two-bit cowboy]

You did very well. Heck, the MOP grips might be worth what you paid.

If it were mine I'd use some Flitz to polish it, maybe try to find a different nickel cylinder (polish wont' fix those cosmetic problems), try to find a pair of magna stocks (they're ⅛" shorter than the subsequent Chiefs Special models with four and three frame screws) and shoot the heck out of it. (I'd only get the wood stocks to spare those MOP's from potential damage.)

I had two of my five-screw Chiefs out last Saturday. They're a hoot to shoot.

[AJ]

My thoughts are you can:
1. Renickel it.
2. Strip the nickel and reblue it. (Brownell's sells a denickeling solution).
3. Carry it as is.....

Your choice!

I bought a couple of used/abused toys last week. Both are mechanically perfect. Finish leaves a bit to be desired. Will use them as is for now.

[Old cop]

I’d take it to the range and if all goes well make it an EDC as is. If the hammer spur hanging up concerns you, practice putting your thumb over the hammer when drawing until it becomes second nature.

[jjrr]

Don’t know how much of a job it is to strip nickel plating but it is a good candidate for a rust blue project. I have been keeping an eye out for something in good mechanical condition for a project, if the price is right mechanical may not need to be perfect. Just a thought.

[TexasTech69]

I don't think the grips are Mother of Pearl, just faux pearl. I/S both grips is CBF 6 50 on right and CBFX 6 50 on right.

[DWalt]

My opinion is to leave it as-is. It likely shipped sometime in mid-1952 based on my SN list.

[Wiregrassguy]

RW, looking at your pictures, it appears the flaking is only on the cylinder. If that is the case, I would re-nickel the cylinder which would substantially reduce the cost. You can probably find a local gunsmith who can do the job. If not, check out https://apwcogan.com.

[handejector]

Are the hammer and trigger plated?

Originally Posted by TexasTech69

I/S both grips is CBF 6 50 on right and CBFX 6 50 on right.

Please explain what that means.

[TexasTech69]

Originally Posted by TexasTech69 View Post
I/S both grips is CBF 6 50 on right and CBFX 6 50 on left.

I've attached pics of stocks.

Yes, hammer and trigger are nickel.

[TexasTech69]

Mr. Jarrett,

I can only assume these stocks are faux pearl and that at some point they may have sold for $6.50

[JH1951]

Nice Baby Chiefs. You will enjoy it.
I would approach first from the path of least cost; polish the snot out of it with Flitz or something similar. You may find the areas that have plating loss blend in well. Then take it out for enjoyment or put it to work. Doing a complete refinish will likely turn you upside down on the cost value equation. Second choice would be to nickel the cylinder only. In any event, these are not easy to come by, so by all means get well acquainted with it and enjoy the ownership. I have found the J-frame to be somewhat addicting.

[Hondo44]

Originally Posted by TexasTech69

Mr. Jarrett,

I can only assume these stocks are faux pearl and that at some point they may have sold for $6.50

Those are genuine Mother of pearl grips. They may have sold for $6.50 when they were new but they're worth a LOT more than that today.

Although after WWII S&W factory supplied premium grips including pearl without S&W medallions, those are not S&W factory grips because one side has a hollow area. Factory grips are premium quality with no hollows, and were the same thickness on both sides.

[JSR III]

I have posted this a few times before.


There are 3 major rules in gun collecting and refinishing:

1) If you are buying the gun as a shooter, a new paint job will not make it or you shoot any better. Most guns shoot way better than the owner.

2) If you are buying it as a "collectible" refinishing it will destroy original condition for most collectors.

3) BUT, it is your gun and your money and you can do anything that you want......

[MajorD]

I am with JSR III
If I buy a refinished gun it is for a shooter, and no refinish effort no matter how high quality or costly is going to change the reality it holds no collector value.
Shoot and enjoy as is.

Refinishing is never cost effective. It would cost a minimum of what you have in the gun already for even a marginally decent refinish and would add zero value to the gun. Put your money in ammo or something else

[two-bit cowboy]

Here's the deal.

I heartily agree with Jim about those being Mother of Pearl grips.

Don't shoot that Chiefs Special with those on it.

If you don't want them I'll happily trade you a pair of correct grips for that five-screw Chiefs Special for them, and I'm willing to thrown in a bit of boot for you.

[TexasTech69]

Thanks to everyone for comments and suggestions, I appreciate it.

Two-Bit,
I'll save the clean-up of this old chief so I'll have something to do while the snow is on the ground. I know how to get ahold of you if I decide to part with the pearls.

RW

[handejector]

I agree that the grips are not Factory because the escutcheons are not Factory, however-

Originally Posted by Hondo44

Although after WWII S&W factory supplied premium grips including pearl without S&W medallions, those are not S&W factory grips because one side has a hollow area. Factory grips are premium quality with no hollows, and were the same thickness on both sides.

That is simply INCORRECT.
I have owned numerous pairs of Factory pearl grips from the early 1900s and later. I still own several pairs.
Many of them have had hollows. None of those hollows extend all the way to the edge, but some get very close, so they are not visible mounted on the gun. Refusing to allow any hollows on the backs would decrease the supply of pearl drastically, and some beautiful pearl would be wasted.
I agree they are usually the same thickness.

[Hondo44]

Lee,

I’m sure you’ve seen more factory pearl grips than me. I’ve just never observed any with hollows.