I know that due to my age I am approaching ol fogey status, but I have developed a real hankering for a 1917 with a 4" barrel for shooting and occasional CCW use.

How difficult to find this bird? Would it be easier to buy 5-1/2" barrel and hack 1-1/2" off of it?

I like the idea of using 45 ACP loads as I've tons of them for my 1911.

Would it be a problem to use +P loads?

I'm sure someone here can help me with the answers.

Thanks

Emerson

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NRA Pistol Instructor

I've been thinking along the same lines myself. I have this reblued but mechanically perfect 1917.



I may have it shortened to three inches, round butted, and de-spurred. I don't think I'd shoot +Ps in it, but I'm sure it would handle a truck load of .45 ACP ball or its equivalent.

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“What you got, ain’t new.”

Like you, I would love to have an original 1917. Got a line on one but don't think I will score.

Recently, I had a chance to pick up a NIB M22 on a trade for a Colt SAA I didn't want so I jumped. Got a Smith I frame 32 long and some cash to sweeten the deal.

I have to say that this 4" M22 is one of the greatest revolvers I own. I also have a M21, M625, M29 and M57, also all 4".

Yet it seems that anytime I feel the need to CCW, I reach for my M22.

SSSWWWEEEEETTTT!!!!!!

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Slim, U.S. Army, Ret.

The new model 22 will take a lot more beating from +P's than an original 1917. I would think an original 1917 wouldn't take a steady diet of +P's for very long at all, plus, why do that to a great old war horse?

Get a new Model 22 and be happy.
I certainly liked mine, before it got pinched.

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Lost it all in a boat accident

You might give the 625-6 mountain gun in 45ACP a thought.Not easy to find but SS(easy to care for) and adjustable sights.

I wouldn't intend to give the 1917 a steady diet of +P but would keep it loaded with them when I carry.

I really like the looks of the New Model 22 but can't overcome my distaste for the internal locking feature.

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NRA Pistol Instructor

Too true but the way I look at it, is that I got the gun I wanted, a M22. So what if I dislike the lock? It's like turning down a solid gold bar cuz its got some tarnish on it

IMHO, Just ignore the lock and enjoy the gun.

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Slim, U.S. Army, Ret.

The original 1917's were made with mild steel. I would limit their ammo consumption to factory equivalent.

The newest 1917's were bought by the U.S. military were made by 1919, but commercial 1917's and the same gun for Brazil were made until 1946. Commercial versions were assembled with old parts until the new, 1950 .45 Hand Ejector replaced the old gun with a new frame incorporating short throw hammer and slide-action trigger block.

I have some qualms and reservations of depending on a mechanical device manufactured, sold and in use for 50, 60, as much as 82 years ago! Springs can loose their springiness, and any part can become more stressed and closer to cracking each time it cycles. 82 years of cycling can have worn many parts close to breaking.

The newer 1950 guns would be a better choice for a 4 inch carry gun. Steels are improved greatly and the fixed sights are wider and far more usable. It's a lot easier to find new/old stock action parts to repair post-1950 N frame guns than it is to find same for pre-WWII guns.

Downside of both old and newer (1950-1966) 1917s is cost. Martial 1917's in clean, original finish are growng steadily in value and the 1950 Hand Ejectors have always been pricey. That would discourage me from cutting one up into anything different unless it was already pretty ratty.

Desiring a smoooth, dependable .45 ACP fixed sight carry revolver, I would find a Lew Horton Heritage Series. They have 5-1/2 inch barrels but no internal lock and are as good a steel, heat treat and finish as any guns from that era. There are replacement barrels made in the Philipines floating around- buy one, have it cut to 4 inches, have the front sight replaced and save your original barrel. Probably the best fixed sight N frame made in traditional fashion you will find.

Another choice, the one providing new metal technology and requiring the least modificatioin, would be to buy one of the Model 22-4 "Thunder Ranch" .45 ACPs. It is already four inch barrelled and also has an ejector rod shoud, protecting the ejector rod and lockibg thge forward tip of it in place for shooting. Very wide, usable fixed sights. Yes, the M-22-4 has an internal lock but if you feel it compromises reliability and you want to carry it for protection, removal of the lock is not difficult.

These last two suggestions can eat Plus-P .45 ACP ammo all day.

I had one of the M-22-4's and found it to be a very nicely fit and finished sixgun. It may be just what you are after. It would take the least work to get what you want.

Buff - Thank you for the informative post.

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NRA Pistol Instructor

My 1917 project is 'in the works'. The gunsmith that's doing the barrel cut (3 1/2") and hammer bob (semi) has also been instructed to go thru the gun and be sure it is up to snuff for carry. I have no problems carrying a ninety year old gun once I've put a few hundred rounds through it and am sure it is reliable. From what I've read in the 1982-to-present forum here, plenty of problems occur with newer guns as well. Nevertheless, I wouldn't shoot +P in it and push the envelope. No need for +P - that's why you have a .45 (it's a proven stopper as is).

I carry a M1937 Brazilian that was chopped to 3 inches. Had the front cut extra high to cover center of mass for quick shooting at 15 yards or less. (Like Bat Masterson's SAA). Carried a Lew Horton 25-14 in 3 inch. Liked it so much that I purchased the matching serial in nickle and another one in blue steel with the serial number reversed (23 ego 32) I purchased the TR Model 22 and out of the box one of the best shooting .45ACP revolvers I have. I don't have a problem with locks like some do but I still go back to my Brazilian for carry. I tried the original grips with the Tyler Grip Adapter, Eagle boot grips and went back to the Hogue Monogrip as it reduces the recoil the best. I only had the barrel cut because the first inch or so was pitted from setting in a wet holster. There is a difference in the frames from the M1917 and M1937. If you have a M1917 in fair condition I wouldn't cut it. If you must buy a takeoff barrel and have it cut this way you can put the originial back on as these have the serial number stamped on them.Since these pictures were taken she has been "parked" and the hammer and trigger and all of the springs have been replaced.





LH 25-14

At times I enjoy carrying this chopped 1917 Colt





Or this 1917 S&W to BBQ events

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C & L

Now THAT is what I'm talking about NavyFrank. Yours is the cats meow.

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NRA Pistol Instructor

As much as I like seeing y'all's custom 1917s, please don't cut up more! In the end, I think I'll end up going with a Colt 1917 when I can find one at the right price when I'm in a buying mood, again. Here's one of my carry .45s:

You have any idea how many of these, even 80 plus year old guns have been cut down and carried over the years with a steady diet of practice ammo and performed flawlessly all this time....I hate the new guns with locks, I wont buy one. I have cut many a S&W down, including one for my grandfather just a few months back.It was a Brazilian, hacked the barrel off to 3 1/2 inches or so,soldered the front sight back on and it functions flawlessly, carried often and shot whenever he goes to the range. I would have NO problem trusting my life to one of these like modded guns. I say go for it, their not that hard to find in decent shape and a decent price.

Its like saying I have this 1970 Pontiac GTO that runs and drives perfect,I have kept it in good shape over the yeras and I know it works right but maybe we should not drive it to the store because it might break down and its not as safe as newer cars. So because of this I might own it but it will just sit in my garage to look at and maybe drive around my driveway so it doesnt blow up and kill me.....or sumtin.....

Just because its old doesn't mean it wont work for us anymore....:~)

Quote from Buff's post "I have some qualms and reservations of depending on a mechanical device manufactured, sold and in use for 50, 60, as much as 82 years ago! Springs can loose their springiness, and any part can become more stressed and closer to cracking each time it cycles. 82 years of cycling can have worn many parts close to breaking."

The sky is falling, the sky is falling!

Iam sure just about any of these in decent condition, one that I have gone through and shoot, could hanlde a few rounds of +P if I ever had to shoot these in it to save my life or the life of my family....I wouldnt practice with them but I would carry them in mine when it was being used as my CCW.To each his own, I politely dissagree.

I know it's not a S&W, but here is a Colt 1917 Army that I had customized with some of the same ideas you have.
Link: http://smith-wessonforum.com/lounge/...lt-1917-a.html

Before picture:

After picture:

Good luck with your project, let us know how it turns out.

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ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

I know people have been cutting down 1917s forever, and I like the ones I've seen that way, as well, but the historian in me hates to see it done. I would much rather carry an original 1917 than the Model 22 I have, but until I can find a good condition 1917 for the price I paid for the 22, I'll have to settle for it and my Heritage series 1917.

I have posted these before, but here are a couple I use on an almost daily basis. The S&W had a bulged and split barrel. The Colt was built from a bare frame and parts odds and ends I had accumulated. No collectibles were harmed in the process. Both were a little rough when I started.

I hear ya:~) I cut down guns that were already modded or have a poor refinish or were damaged in some way before. Anything that has a decent amount of original finish with some honest wear or are still nice and clean after all these years of course get spared from the "Butchery" :~) I believe there are still enough of these around to make us all happy, the only thing that seems to change is the price we pay for them.

That huge lug and trigger stop just kill that one pictured above, for me at least.I just cant stand new guns made to look like old guns that are not done 100% correct.

My dad went to the rest home at 88 years old. I hated to do it, but I was forced to relive pa of his 1917. They didnt like dad keeping it under his mattress.

I have become convinced that the frame-mounted firing pin, rather than the older hammer-mounted type is the source of unreliability in these newer guns. The lock bothers many on principal alone, but again it can be dealt with and so doesn't bother me as much. I have a TR 21-4 that I had a few FTFs with; I replaced the firing pin, but shouldn't have had to. I would just as soon trust my life to a 1917, as a post-2001 gun. The whole point of a revolver is simplicity and reliabilty. The workmanship seems to be questionable these days. A valid point about a 1950-60s gun being easier to work on and having better steel than a pre-war gun, but good luck finding one and you'd still have to hack it up for a 4"er! That's why jovinos are in such demand. Mine should have gone out for re-finishing this week. It has taken longer than anticipated.

I'm not a fan of the trigger stop, but can live with the lug. These PC guns have REALLY rough and heavy actions, though. I have this 25/1917 and a 24-5 Heritage model. I don't care for the round butts, either. The 25/1917 is one of the best pointing firearms I have ever held, though. I don't think they made many of the 1917 Heritage models, particularly in the matte blue, but I got it cheaper than what I could get and original 1917 for a few years ago. It used to be that S&W 1917s commanded a premium over the Colt 1917s, but I'm not seeing that as much, anymore, as the Colts seem to have caught up for the most part.

If you can buy something like your gun pictured at a super price, I would still be tempted. Iam a sucker for a good cheap gun:~)

I absolutely love the finished product, it looks like a Detective Special on steroids. Should you ever consider parting with it please keep me in mind.

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Don't kiss smiling dogs!

we all didnt like the look's of the air bag's in the new automobles steering wheel's, most of us got over it!!

Awesome revolvers, I recently sent mine into karl skoal at chestnut mountain sports to have my colt 1917 shortened to 2" as well! I will post pictures when I receive it back!

I am very proud of my 22-4 fixed sight 4 inch revolver..I like everything about it (of course, the lock DOESN'T count) Good fixed sights, like a fighting pistol should have, shoots POA at any reasonable fighting distance, trigger pull is very acceptable for a factory gun. What else does someone need from a fighting gun?????
It ain't a lightweight hideout piece, that's for sure...but that isn't what I was lookin' for when I bought it.
accurate, tough, good caliber, reliable....what else do you need in a self defense handgun??

What planet do you live on where it's easy to find 1917s that are "in decent shape and a decent price." I'd like to come visit with some money in my pocket.

Dave

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RSVN '69-'71
PCSD (Ret)

Some people think $800 for a 1911 is a "decent price" so take every post with a grain of salt

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I miss my 4546 the most.

I am trading on Satuday to get one of these Brazilian contract revolvers. I will be looking to cut mine to a 3'', and want to know what you guys do for the front sight when you chop the barrel. Does the old one get moved back or do you go with some thing else? A gold bead would look sweet!

Your question on front sights is a personal choice. For myself I built a newer configured one from a piece of cold blued mild steel. In addition I added a adjustable rear Wondersight, mounts on the #4 frame screw. In 4" configuration, 200gr.swc autorim cases 900fps, it's a nice package and it's the one I reach for when heading out. Portable, Packable, Potent.

Hi:
One of my many, many sins is that in the 1960s I had several S&W M1917s barrels cut to 4". Every M1917 would keyhole bullets at 15 &25 yards.
I reloaded with SWC 255gr lead bullets. If I recall GI 45acp 230gr bullets would also keyhole.

Front sights ARE a matter of choice. The 2 guns of mine shown on page 2 of this thread both have front sights fabricated from either key stock or maybe from scrap steel I had laying around the shop. I also carefully used a needle file to change the U notch to square for a better sight picture. There was a mention of shortening a 1917 barrel to 3" a few posts back. Without cutting down the front of the ejector shroud, 3 1/4" is about as short as you can go. Mine ended up at about 3 3/8" after removing the bulged and split portion.

It had a pitted barrel from sitting in a wet holster. Had it chopped down and the gunsmith used the front sight from the original barrel to make the front sight on it now. Made sure that the front sight is brazed on and not silver sodered. The recoil will remove the front sight. I was lucky and recovered mine. Had gun reparked and springs replaced.

How does that gun shoot?

Steve

The comment about shortening the barrel to 3 1/4 in. is right. Any futher you are into the locking lug. I know it's splitting hairs but we want to get it as "small" as possible.

Which brings me to another point. As much as I've wanted a chopped 1917/Brazilian, it's still a steel n frame. Ok a 5 1/2" version weighs around 36 1/2oz with standard woood grips (unloaded).

Let's say you cut the barrel to 3 1/4 and round out the butt to fit n frame round butt grips.You might get the unloaded weight down to 33 oz?

Add in 6 rounds and you are still looking at lugging around a 38-39oz carry piece. I still want one but realize it may not be practical for all the time carry. Besides if you put rubber grips of any size on it the weight will increase slightly.

Still a cool idea.

Dave

I want mine to be my bedside, or in-car defense pistol, and 3 1/4 will be prefect. Will I have to worry about keyholing at 3 1/4''?

Nope. My Brazillian had a dent at the front of the barrel that you could see on the inside. I cut it off to 3 and a quarter and it shoots fine. Better, actually.


Cat

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Think for yourself.

I had a cut-down 1917 for quite a while, and it was a darned nice gun. To tell the truth, though, with new 1917s and 1922s available (Yeah, I know they are not identical, but they share the major chracteristics) there's a better choice available for defensive carry. These guns are, after all, getting pretty long in the tooth. They are well-built and reliable, but breakage is certainly a possibity and, if something does break, new parts are getting very tough to find.

When the budget allows, I am thinking of getting a new Model 22 and having some bobbing and slicking done on it. Ugly lock hole aside, they are nice wheelguns.

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Pisgah