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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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  #1  
Old 01-23-2010, 01:39 PM
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Default Model 19-3 stainless?

Hi,
I may have a model 19-3 in stainless though I understand that shouldn't be possible. My father bought it in the early 80's. It was made in '76. He gave it to me several years ago. Recently, I decided to do a little research on the gun and that's when I realized I may have something special. It has all the correct marks on the grip frame, swing arm, and frame. There are several inspector marks on the grip frame (more than I've seen on any similar revolvers). We always thought it was brushed stainless but I now understand it was only supposed to be made in bright nickel or blue. I spoke to the historian at S&W and he said it must have been refinished. I've had several experienced collectors look at it and they all agree that it is stainless and all parts are original. The final test may involve testing by a metallurgist just to confirm what the other collectors have said.
After that long intro, here's my question for everyone. Does anyone have any ideas on how/why a 19-3 would have been manufactured in stainless? Also, how rare/valuable could this be? Finally, is there any possible way to refinish a gun so perfectly that it would be impossible for an expert to visibly be fooled?
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  #2  
Old 01-23-2010, 01:50 PM
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As is usually the case with these kinds of questions, the gun has an aftermarket finish such as hard chrome. The Model 19 is a carbon steel gun with Smith & Wesson's equivalent in stainless steel being the Model 66.



Bruce
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:52 PM
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I would just do a magnet test to see if it's SS. A magnet
will not stick to SS. I think it was mismarked from S&W.
Looks like you have a M66 thats marked M19. "NEAT" Don
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:52 PM
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I'll agree with Roy

There have many guns hard chromed for years by many different companies that can make them look factory original.

I can change out a hamer and trigger in about ten minutes (and I'm not a gunsmith) so that could have been done at same time as the refinish
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:53 PM
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Have You removed the sideplate, and viewed the revolver's frame internally?
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HAWKEYE10 View Post
I would just do a magnet test to see if it's SS. A magnet
will not stick to SS. I think it was mismarked from S&W.
Looks like you have a M66 thats marked M19. "NEAT" Don
Actually that's not so.
Magnets do stick to stainless revolvers.

Gun making grades of Stainless Steel are differently formulated than stainless flatware, or other stainless steels. It has to do with machining properties, and strength.
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Old 01-23-2010, 01:58 PM
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The grade of stainless that Smith+Wesson uses does indeed attract to a magnet so that is not a valid indicator.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:06 PM
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I have removed the sideplates and had a long time collector look at it. He said he would bet his best gun that at the least the gun has it's original finish. It does look exactly like a model 66, but it is clearly marked 19-3. It just doesn't seem logical for someone to purchase the gun new and immediately spend a fortune refinishing it to such a high standard that it's not detectable. (It has been in our possession for all but the first 4 or 5 yrs.) Also it is a brushed finish not bright. All 19-3 were made in bright finish. Furthermore, there are no scratches are other signs of an "applied" finish except on the wooden grips. (I still have them but removed them to avoid any additional scratches.)
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
It just doesn't seem logical for someone to purchase the gun new and immediately spend a fortune refinishing it to such a high standard that it's not detectable. (It has been in our possession for all but the first 4 or 5 yrs.)
glev - I've seen a guy buy a brand new truck for $30,000 and bring it home and pull all the suspension out, spend another 30-40K for new set-up and then use it for offroad racing. People spend money in various ways

Your 19-3 could have been carried by a Police officer and he wanted a special finish for his Duty gun

You might as well spend the $50 and get a factory letter and then all the speculation will lay to rest.
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Old 01-23-2010, 02:55 PM
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Assuming it is stainless and not a refinish, the gun is probably a Model 66 that was mis-stamped 19-3. I have heard of this happening before and incorrect stampings of model number by S&W are well documented.

In addition, if the parts are stainless, there should be an S stamped in the ejector rod shroud and on the left side of the grip frame, and a V stamped on the rear surface of the cylinder.

Bill

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Old 01-23-2010, 03:14 PM
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I think you are correct. You have the only stainless 19-3 ever produced. I would immediately list it on GunBroker with a reserve of $1,000,000 as befitting this one of a kind gun.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:17 PM
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Bill,
Thanks for the info. I can check for those stamps right now. I'll post an update in a few minutes. If it is mislabeled and actually a 66, does that add to the value and perfectibility of the gun? (I have no interest in selling, just curious.) Another theory proposed by a local collector is that it may have been a prototype that made it's way out of the factory.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:19 PM
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That SaxP is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the forum. However, I must differ with him here. I think the figure he gave is a bit too high. Try $990,000.03, it will sell faster.
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Old 01-23-2010, 03:28 PM
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I agree with VM spend the $50 on a LOA from Roy Jinks.A carbon steel gun will always be carbon steel no matter how it is re-finished and a Stainless steel gun will always be stainless steel.If it has been mis-stamped you'll need the documentation anyway.

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Old 01-23-2010, 03:54 PM
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glev...If the revolver is incorrectly stamped, it does not add to the collector value. However, that being said, there may be some collectors who are interested in mis-stamped guns and may pay a small premium.

Concerning the prototype possibility, the revolver would not be a prototype Model 66 as the first run of this model to test the new tooling was made in 1970 (100 guns were made). Prototypes would have pre-dated this run (if any were made). The gun would not be a prototype Model 19-3 in stainless, since the Model 66 was in full production long before 1976.

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Old 01-23-2010, 04:10 PM
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I'm betting on a premium aftermarket refinish. Which is not necessarily a bad thing. Just not a collector's gun. Still a fine revolver. Enjoy.
Russ
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Old 01-23-2010, 04:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc44 View Post
Assuming it is stainless and not a refinish, the gun is probably a Model 66 that was mis-stamped 19-3. I have heard of this happening before and incorrect stampings of model number by S&W are well documented.

In addition, if the parts are stainless, there should be an S stamped in the ejector rod shroud and on the left side of the grip frame, and a V stamped on the rear surface of the cylinder.

Bill
I'm betting he will not find the stainless stamp identifiers you mentioned, nor will he find an "N" stamped on the left of the grip frames as the nickle guns all had.

I'm betting it is a refinished 19-3. Nice looking gun though . . . sort of like a new stainless 66 though.

Also, the trigger and hammer are the wrong color.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:12 PM
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Default More detail-thanks for all the opinions so far

I attached more detailed photos of the markings on the grips and cylinder arm. I also checked for the stamps on the cylinder and ejector. On the back of the ejector it's very difficult to see. With the small magnifying glass I have it appears to be stamped with the same number that's on the swing arm. There is an additional letter or two but I can't clearly see them without better magnification. On the back of the cylinder there is a clear mark I just don't know what to make of it. The mark looks like an oddly shaped 5 and back-words S. Any information anyone can add would be appreciated. A few additional questions: Why would it have all of the correct markings if the gun is a mistake or other odd release? Also the machining marks are very clear inside the frame and grip. None of the blued or nickel guns I have show such clear machining because the finish hides it. Last, there is no discoloration or corrosion in any of the small scratches. (In my limited experience, a gun that has had a finish of any kind must be kept oiled and extra care taken to avoid this. I have not had the same problem with this gun at any time and it has been used and carried extensively.)
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:18 PM
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tom turner....Why do you state the hammer and trigger are the wrong color? Just curious.

glev...In the second photo, is the mainspring blued or stainless? I checked my Model 66 and a 629, and both mainsprings are stainless.

Bill
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:33 PM
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The five digit number on the yoke and the frame is the assembly number that is used to keep fitted parts together. The large 3 indicates the gun is a K-frame in .357 Magnum caliber. The other marks are fitter and inspector marks that are standard on most guns. No help in determining if the gun is a 19 or a 66. Machining marks do appear on blued and nickel revolvers on the grip frame and this part is not polished like the rest of the gun.

A factory letter will tell you if the gun shipped as a 19-3 or 66, but if it letters as a 19, it still will not answer the question about whether the gun is made of SS or refinished in something like armaloy or metalife. The V on the rear of the cylinder should be easily read, as it the S in the ejector rod shroud. Without those clear markings, the mystery continues.

Bill

Last edited by Doc44; 01-23-2010 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 01-23-2010, 05:37 PM
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Bill,
I'm not sure what the finish (if any) is on the main spring. It's not stainless like the rest of the grip but it's not the typical "blued" color of any other gun finish I've seen. Like the rest of the gun, there's no sign of corrosion or rust but it's brown like the color of chocolate.
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SaxonPig View Post
I think you are correct. You have the only stainless 19-3 ever produced. I would immediately list it on GunBroker with a reserve of $1,000,000 as befitting this one of a kind gun.
If you're interested I'll let it go for 600,000 and leave you with a 400,000 profit.
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Old 01-23-2010, 06:39 PM
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Looks like Armolloy (sp?). About the time that gun was new, it was THE finish for duty guns. I had a buddy in the NJSP with that exact finish on his duty weapon. Joe
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Old 01-23-2010, 09:34 PM
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The revolver pictured is not stainless steel. It has been refinished to some sort of bead blasted nickel or chrome finish. Since it now has zero percent of its original finish, it is only valuable as a shooter, so start shooting. You may want to have it gone over by S&W to make sure that the action parts and springs were not messed with during the refinish as some sort of action/finish package.
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Old 01-23-2010, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MakeMyNight View Post
Actually that's not so.
Magnets do stick to stainless revolvers.

Gun making grades of Stainless Steel are differently formulated than stainless flatware, or other stainless steels. It has to do with machining properties, and strength.
You are right. I just tested my SS M66 and the magnet
stuck. It's been a good day, I learned something. Thanks Don
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Old 01-23-2010, 11:28 PM
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Default Model 19

I had 19 just like it. It was a service revolver that had been plated.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shawn mccarver View Post
The revolver pictured is not stainless steel. It has been refinished to some sort of bead blasted nickel or chrome finish. Since it now has zero percent of its original finish, it is only valuable as a shooter, so start shooting. You may want to have it gone over by S&W to make sure that the action parts and springs were not messed with during the refinish as some sort of action/finish package.
First thank you to the 99% that posted with an open mind and obvious desire to help. I hope you will all check back as I continue to add more details and follow the advice you give. i enjoy investigating all of the possibilities people have suggested.

To the small number of members, (Mr MCarver for example) that have some "6th sense" ability to state as "fact" without explanation that they have the answer. It's quite a feat to dismiss the gun as not stainless or proclaim it's refinished. All without actually seeing the gun, I understand it's a possibility, but all evidence refutes any refinishing and points to the gun being stainless. I can say this with some confidence because I and several others that have actually inspected the gun at length strongly agree that it is stainless and is marked Model 19-3.

Last night I disassembled the revolver further than I ever have before. I enlisted the help and magnification equipment of a friend that's a dentist. We (actually the dentist) found some very odd markings etched into the gun. The same two numbers were etched into every part of the gun. It is not a stamp and appears to be hand engraved, The two digits are so small in some places, (on the shaft of the grip set screw, inside each catch on the outside of the cylinder, and on some other tiny pins and parts) that they can only be seen with magnification. The etching is deeper than any finish (including armolly) in most places and would have been subject to corrosion. We found none.

Anybody have any ideas? If it's possibly a mis-stamped 66, what are the differences between the 19 and 66 other than stainless? If I knew, I could consider that the most likely possibility or (even better) rule that out completely, which would make it more of a mystery.
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Old 01-24-2010, 03:51 PM
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[QUOTE=glev;1273895]

To the small number of members, (Mr MCarver for example) that have some "6th sense" ability to state as "fact" without explanation that they have the answer.

I am sorry if I offended you with my rather matter-of-fact statement about your Model 19-3, which you indicated was made in 1976. I could be wrong, but do not think so. I think it unlikely that your revolver is a mismarked Model 66.

One reason, obvious from your pictures, is the lack of the red ramp front sight. Not definitive, for sure, but a factor I considered. The rear sight assembly appears to be blue or black, but that would have been easy - that part was simply not refinished at the time, betting the revolver was originally blue.

Model 66s made in 1976 had red ramps, and I do not see, on your pictures, the red ramp, nor do I see the dovetail cut where one might have been. Again, we are all guessing, and we are all trying to help. I sincerely apologize if I offended you.

I hope your revolver is rare, as it is nice to find a rare one from time to time, but, and I mean this in the nicest way, the evidence shown so far, does not lead me to the belief that it is actually a Model 66.

I will be more than happy to admit, in advance, that I am wrong, if the correct markings for stainless are shown as Bill suggested, or if a factory letter says it is.

Another suggestion is to call S&W and ask customer service to enter you serial number in the computer to see what they can tell you about it.

Good luck, and my sincere apologies. Again, I was merely trying to be matter-of-fact, and was not trying to offend you or your revolver.

Shawn

Last edited by shawn mccarver; 01-24-2010 at 03:57 PM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
We (actually the dentist) found some very odd markings etched into the gun. The same two numbers were etched into every part of the gun. It is not a stamp and appears to be hand engraved, The two digits are so small in some places, (on the shaft of the grip set screw, inside each catch on the outside of the cylinder, and on some other tiny pins and parts) that they can only be seen with magnification.

Glev - are you going to share what the marking are?

I wouldn't be so hard on Mr. mccarver.......I made up my mind real quick from your original post when you stated :

"I spoke to the historian at S&W and he said it must have been refinished"

If you do a little research, you'll find that Roy Jinks is a pretty knowledgeable guy when it comes to S&W's

Last edited by VM; 01-24-2010 at 04:02 PM.
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:00 PM
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Last night I disassembled the revolver further than I ever have before. I enlisted the help and magnification equipment of a friend that's a dentist. We (actually the dentist) found some very odd markings etched into the gun. The same two numbers were etched into every part of the gun. It is not a stamp and appears to be hand engraved, The two digits are so small in some places, (on the shaft of the grip set screw, inside each catch on the outside of the cylinder, and on some other tiny pins and parts) that they can only be seen with magnification. The etching is deeper than any finish (including armolly) in most places and would have been subject to corrosion. We found none.


I believe that this could indicate a batch plating and using the id's to put all the body parts back to the same gun.

What think you?

bdGreen
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:01 PM
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glev...Please post a photo of the side plate of the revolver showing the S&W logo. That might help me in determining if the revolver has been refinished or not. Thanks.

Bill
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Old 01-24-2010, 04:17 PM
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Glev,You have to remember that we are not the S&W Historian and don't have the LOA information at our fingertips.Everyone who answers your thread is interested in what you have or they would not bother.A little kidding around helps us all get through the day.That said, Bill is an expert so post some photos,talk to S&W and keep an open mind.
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Old 01-24-2010, 05:26 PM
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I once puzzled over a gun IDENTICAL to yours in a shop in Idaho. Turns out the owner, for one of those inexplicable reasons, had removed all of the bluing and the gun was in the white. The only clue was tiny traces of bluing near the rear sight. Could it be plain old bare steel?

I agree with the general consensus, though, that somebody wanted a Model 66 (which were hard to find for quite a while) and did the next best thing by refinishing a Model 19.
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  #34  
Old 01-24-2010, 05:35 PM
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Wink No offense intended and pictures

Bill, you have been the most helpful of all. I wrote this in an earlier post, the research and ongoing replies with specific suggestions are the best. I enjoy reading a post and then going to the gun to investigate. My only issue was with the very small number of posts saying they "know for a fact" that the gun is _______. I,m all for a definitive answer that I can verify. In the mean time please keep adding suggestions and things to look for. I honestly appreciate the help.
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  #35  
Old 01-24-2010, 06:19 PM
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I think you have an interesting gun. I think you should write for a letter from Roy, as that is the only way for you to really be sure. If it is hard chrome plated, it will still be a fine gun, as the hard chrome is a harder finish than either the blue or stainless and will allow a life time of use. I'll with hold my opinion until you get the letter.
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  #36  
Old 01-24-2010, 06:32 PM
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glev...thanks for the photos. The logo and printing (including the periods) may look a little less pronounced than on my 66 and 629s, but it does not definitively indicate a polishing to remove a former finish. I think I am finally out of ideas.

I would ask for a factory letter. It will tell you if the revolver shipped as a 19-3 and what the original finish is (or was). Let us know what it says. If the revolver shipped as a 66, then it is incorrectly stamped.

Your posting has generated lots of interesting discussion.

Bill
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:15 PM
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Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."
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Old 01-24-2010, 10:34 PM
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What was the final verdict on the"V" on the rear cylinder face and the "S" in ejector shroud?

Jerry

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  #39  
Old 01-24-2010, 10:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dant View Post
Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."
Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?
  #40  
Old 01-24-2010, 11:57 PM
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Glev , don't know what you got there for sure , but with all this controversy I am starting to want one too .
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Old 01-25-2010, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?
I am pretty sure Dan explained how to perform the test, scratch the gun under the grip frame where it will be hidden and apply some cold blue to the scratch, if it turns blue the underlying metal is regular steel and it is a 19, if it doesn't turn blue the underlying metal is stainless steel and the gun is probably a mis-marked 66.
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  #42  
Old 01-25-2010, 12:46 PM
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The "V" stamped on the cylinder is exactly like two I have. An early 686 (6/82 ship) and a 60 (5/76 ship). I have been told it was a mark to distinguish Stainless cylinders from un-blued cylinders.

Some time back, I recall hearing about a conversation with Roy when he did acknowledge a few Mod 19's were made in stainless prior to the 66 being introduced. I do not recall when I heard this, but within the past 3-4 years.

The Picture of the right side, with the side plate looking a little different would make me think of a plating job, as I have a Mod 19-4 with a Metaloy finish, and it exhibits the same characteristics.

But, with the "V" mark on the cylinder I am really curious now. Possibly the only way it to get a letter.

My metaloyed Mod 19-4.
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  #43  
Old 01-25-2010, 01:24 PM
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I think the photo of the V is someone else's gun not the OP. The OP said he could not make out the mark on his cylinder, said it looks like a 5 or S.
I wasn't going to say anything because he seems to get upset with giving opinions that he don't like but the gun does not look like stainless to me. Don't know how to explain it just don't have the same look. I guess it could be the photos.
  #44  
Old 01-25-2010, 04:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?
whoa, sorry I commented, could NOT have said it any "simpler & easier" as to "how to test"...have a nice day...................your gun, YOU figure it out.
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Old 01-25-2010, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dant View Post
Just saw this and as we used to have many gun s done by Ron Mahovsky through our shop ( and two of my own personal model 19s were done as such (Metalife SS) the 'batch ' numbers cited by bdgreen comes to mind, as many shops did just that. but the proof in th pudding would be quite easy to find out and how we do it is to scribe a mark ( line) on the grip fram eflat , out of sight no less, and apply a drop of cold blue, the underlying metal will or will NOT turn 'blue'...if its stainless, (all the way through & through) no way will it "turn blue",but my bet is it will, see this all too often, and makes the crowd go nuts figuring out "why" it looks so much like stainless and its NOT....good luck, and as noted above, even if it was "mismarked" as to a model number ( also happens from time to time) only a slight premium .......all of this would have taken a couple of minutes to" solve your riddle...."
Most helpful post yet why would you attack him?

Also, I's gots to know..................................... Did your "friend" find any cavities?
  #46  
Old 01-25-2010, 07:44 PM
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Glev,You have got to lighten up.It's only a gun,not the cure for cancer.
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  #47  
Old 01-25-2010, 09:50 PM
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Glev, In:
Pic. # 1..Inside the grooves made by the crane being opened and closed is very dark!! non of my SS S&W's have that discloration even when dirty, but thats along time ago when I didnt clean them right. "Not sure" it's not in my hand to tell.
Pic. # 2.. the top circle the pitting? why does it have the same discoloration?The same with the pitting between the top circle and B19 stamp same pic straight across the inside of frame to back strap of frame looks like the same going on there also. My point being, again gun not in hand, if this not dirt, it looks like blue. Not saying it is but would make me think it's blueing I dont know? wipe and clean it. Have the Dentist use those pic's and see or you do it . No pun intended here just I would.

Now how many grooves are in the backstrap?

What letter is Stamped on the cylinder face, faceing you when opened? I think Doc asked you that and didnt get an answer yet.

The B19 stamp is a little interesting? some say it an assemblers # I dont know?

Im wondering why the flashed chromed Hammer and Trigger?
Cannot find anywhere, where it appeared on a M-19 unless special ordered or changed out by a gunsmith, as far as I can tell or find in researching this M-19. But I do know what model it almost always came on! What I have learned here in this Forum is anything is possiable with S&W. My nickel M-19 is older then this one, you have, and doesnt have one and since seeing these come along I always thought about changing it but then always decided not to...

Interesting Handgun whatever it is. You need to letter it for sure, in there lies the answer! For sure... Good Clue is Mr. Jinks may have already given the answer.
good luck with your Quest
James


Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
I attached more detailed photos of the markings on the grips and cylinder arm. I also checked for the stamps on the cylinder and ejector. On the back of the ejector it's very difficult to see. With the small magnifying glass I have it appears to be stamped with the same number that's on the swing arm. There is an additional letter or two but I can't clearly see them without better magnification. On the back of the cylinder there is a clear mark I just don't know what to make of it. The mark looks like an oddly shaped 5 and back-words S. Any information anyone can add would be appreciated. A few additional questions: Why would it have all of the correct markings if the gun is a mistake or other odd release? Also the machining marks are very clear inside the frame and grip. None of the blued or nickel guns I have show such clear machining because the finish hides it. Last, there is no discoloration or corrosion in any of the small scratches. (In my limited experience, a gun that has had a finish of any kind must be kept oiled and extra care taken to avoid this. I have not had the same problem with this gun at any time and it has been used and carried extensively.)

Last edited by james56; 01-25-2010 at 10:00 PM.
  #48  
Old 01-26-2010, 09:08 PM
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Would'nt a revolver made from stainless weigh more than a carbon steel gun of the same size? I think published weights of both the M-19 and the M-66 would tell you what it really is. Just a simple thought from a simple mind It would take a good scale, I doubt if the differance is much
  #49  
Old 01-27-2010, 12:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by glev View Post
Dan,
Once again, it must be a sad person ( probably very qualified though) that would rather insinuate brilliance at someone's expense instead of offering to explain how to perform such a simple and fast test. I wonder if being of such lofty intellect makes a person agitated and condescending?
Pardon me, but, in the spirit of polite conversation, what the hell was that for?

Odds are, you have a refinished model 19. You're researching it like it is the Shroud of Turin.

If its mismarked, its mismarked. A letter may prove you are right. So will scratching through the finish and seeing if cold blue affects it. All the seeking with a 10X loupe will not prove it one way or the other. They are the same gun, one made of carbon steel, the other stainless. One should be stamped 19, the other 66. If indeed its a mismarked gun, good for you, its a little unusual. If its been plated, good for you, its a great shooter.
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  #50  
Old 01-27-2010, 08:07 PM
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I wondering why there's 2, B 19's stamp into it. 1 on the crane and one one the frames Left side grip? Can anyone edgamocate me? Im willing to learn!! I cant find it in the S&W ST. Cat.
Thanks and Respectfully
james
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