A few weeks ago I asked for ways to take some mild rust off my "new" 10-7. It really only showed up under macro setting, and flash on my camera. I finally got some "Flitz" and it did the job. Unfortunatly you can still see some small spots where the rust had been.





Thanks to all who offered advice.

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John 3:16 .

Keep it oiled up to prevent any more rust from forming. The drawback to the rust removal is the fact that the surface is now bare. I don't like flitz on blued guns and usually use a flattened rifle case or old school penny to remove the rust from guns then oil the snot out of them. If you want to cover the exposed metal with cold blue (if you can live with that) it will be a barrier to rust but will not match the original blue. I hate rust !!!!!!!!!!!!!!. I try to prevent the stuff from getting on them but throughout my collection I have a few spots that got me. I also resurrect some pretty ugly specimens with the method I explained above with varying results but I will try to save them rather than give up. I have reblued a few "non-collectors" over the years but don't like to as a general rule. Others may chime in with a better solution but in the mean time, keep the oil on it.

Thanks. I keep them waxed with silicone wax and have never had a rust problem. I'd thought about cold blue, but I'd rather have the little specks on something like this.

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John 3:16 .

Corrosion is damage to the metal and once it starts it is forever. Freckling turns into deep rust and that turns into pitting. Once the metal is etched there is no way to fix it.

One thing I've noticed about cold blue, on the high polished and blued flat Smith surfaces the finish almost never matches and the blued surface around the bare area also becomes discolored. Cold blue tends to work OK on muzzle wear, matte surfaces like a Model 28 topstrap but not well on most of the gun's surfaces.

I use copper wool with oil, I have bought a few Smiths with old spots of haze rust on them.......it's the nature of the beast, often used S&W's that turn up at gun shops have been stuck in cheap gun cases and sat in forgotten corners of basements for decades before the owners (or heirs) find them and sell them off. Blued guns that see a lot of use and aren't obsessively cared for don't do well over the years cosmetically. For a "shooter" I could care less about rust damage as long as the gun is tight and functional, and the bore and chambers are OK. I have some range guns that would make purist collectors vomit....... For a collector piece, freckling, pitting or cold blue pretty much nukes any collector value.

I love a blued S&W but I am loving stainless more and more.....I have rust damaged guns that would have been OK had the gun been stainless. All those scratched, buffed, worn and beat up ex-PD or security 64's, 67's and 65's out there would look like piles of pitted **** if they were 10's, 15's or 13's.......

I have seen remarkable results with Corrosion-X with rust spots on guns. When you put some on a rust spot you can see it start to bubble up after a minute or so. Then lightly brush the area with a brass brush and the rust disappears leaving the bluing intact. This works well on lightly rusted areas where it hasn't started to pit.

That is one beautiful gun. I especially like the case hardening colors on your trigger & hammer.
Enjoy that ol gal!

For what it's worth I carried a blued Model 15 as my issued weapon back in the day. We used car wax to keep the rust from forming, and I was careful to wipe it down after exposure to rain or snow.

I never heard of Corrosion-X, I have a few guns that could use it! Blued S&W's and Rugers that I picked up used that already had rust on them from neglect........

Carried by lots of gun stores and True Value Hardware stores:

CorrosionX

And it doesn't hurt bluing at all? Sounds like a winner, I have one 10-5 in particular that has pitting on the cylinder with some traces of rust still in there......

I generally remove small spots of rust with soft-iron wool and Ballistol natural gun oil which leaves a micro film of oil over the steel.



To prevent rust I keep my guns at home in a safebox and each gun, perfectly wrapped into a white cotton napkin, is inside its gun plastic case with a Silica Gel sachet.



Many Silica Gel sachets are spread during summer, when humidy ratio is much higher here, all over the last bottom shelf of the safebox.
I think Silica Gel is the best way to keep humidy and rust away from guns.

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Salu2 a to2
Bizio