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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 03-19-2015, 07:59 PM
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Default re-bluing of revolvers

When a gun is sent back to S&W for a re-finish, how far are they disassembled? Is the barrel removed from the frame, how about the front sights? Just curious. Thanks
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Old 03-19-2015, 09:07 PM
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The barrel is not removed unless there is another reason to do so or specifically request it. There is an extra charge to remove and re-install the barrel just for refinishing.

Bruce
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:20 AM
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Also, if anyone has done it, how does it look? Like the older deep blue, or what?
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Old 03-20-2015, 09:59 AM
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I saw a pre 29 recently that was sent back and the gun came back outstanding. Superb finish.

Pete
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:48 AM
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I've had several guns reblued in the past.I no longer own any of them ,so I can't send you any pictures. With the factory refinish the blue was really nice,but it would have looked a whole lot better if they had polished it like I paid for.Now the polishing coming out form the factory looks like it's suppose to,but the bluing itself is not desirable.I would use Fords or Turnbulls myself.
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Old 03-20-2015, 10:54 AM
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There are occasional posts with photos of guns sent back to S&W for rebluing and, IMO, they look nice and the general consensus from S&W Forum members seems to be positive. Of course there's always the debate about the pro's and con's about rebluing (affect on collectibility, cost considerations, etc.). Try using the search engine in the S&W Forum for rebluing.
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Old 03-20-2015, 11:13 AM
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I HAVE LITTLE TRUST IN S&W QUALITY NOWADAYS. I WOULD SEND MY FIREARM TO FORDS……...
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:45 PM
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I gotta learn how to post pic's... About 4 years back I sent S&W a nickel 27-2 that was ROUGH - flakes, small pit or 2. It needed a refinish - and I am not real fond of nickel anyway. But truly, it needed done. They did a fantastic job IMO. Didn't round anything, actually hard to tell it's a reblue. It probably is too shiny for a 1977 blue gun, but it is beautiful..
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Old 03-22-2015, 07:38 PM
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I sent this one back to the factory a couple of years ago. I wish I had taken a before photo because it looked like someone tied it to a piece of string and dragged it behind a car. I think they did a great job. I just wish the picture was a little better but I'm a shooter not a photographer.

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Old 03-22-2015, 07:50 PM
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Iggy, that just looks great. If I had it done I'd hate to put a turn line on it thou. Kinda like getting the first ding on a new car.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:21 PM
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I have sent a few back to the factory for "standard" re-bluing. I think they did an excellent job, with the understanding that the worse off the gun was originally (or if you send one in that was originally "Bright Blue") it may not come back 100% perfect.

The current blue is much more black than earlier guns that used a different process.
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Old 03-22-2015, 08:49 PM
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Here are some pictures of my 586 that I had re-blued at the S&W factory.
I had it done two years ago.








It doesn't have the deep blue of the old days, but a treatment with Ren Wax helps that.

After Ren Wax:

Last edited by Hillbilly77; 03-24-2015 at 01:08 AM.
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Old 03-24-2015, 01:01 AM
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I picked up a Model 15 about 15 years ago for $150. Yes, you read that right.

It belonged to the seller's father, who had carried it for years as a security guard, but seldom fired it. Mechanically flawless, its finish was well worn. Also, the rear sight blade was chipped. Grips were rubber after market.

No box, no papers and no tools.

I sent it to Smith and Wesson. They went over the gun, chamfered the charge holes, performed an action job and replaced the chipped sight blade...and refinished the gun.

I added a set of Hogue grips, coco bolo.

It looked absolutely brand new. It still looks great and shoots great, too.

I also sent my Model 49. Carried a lot, it's finish was worn. It came back from Smith looking like new. It sports Spegel Grips now.

So, my experience with Smith and Wesson refinishing services have been outstanding.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g-dad View Post
Iggy, that just looks great. If I had it done I'd hate to put a turn line on it thou. Kinda like getting the first ding on a new car.
A while back I sent a scruffy M19 into Ford's for their master blue. Now...I can't make myself put a turn line in it. Ridiculous...fortunately I have a M66 and decent M10 to fall back on.
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Old 03-25-2015, 08:47 PM
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Here's a 36-1 re-blue (the pictures don't do it justice):



And here's a 28-2 re-blue (replacement grips are so-so):





Turn around time was a little over three months.
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Old 03-25-2015, 09:39 PM
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Nice looking new deep blue finish guys.


A gun is a tool so a turn line is ok. I need to get over that too.
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Old 03-26-2015, 12:59 AM
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I have had revolvers refinished at both Smith & Wesson and Ford's. Ford's did an absolutely marvelous job on a 5-screw 3 1/2" .357 magnum that had really seen better days when I bought it. I also had an S prefix Model 29-2 with a bulged cylinder repaired and refinished. That gun had the barrel removed and reinstalled during the repair which made the refinish a little easier. That gun also came back looking superb. Having said that, S&W quit using the Carbonia oven bluing method in the late 1970's and replaced it with a hot salts bath. Ford's uses a similar hot salts bath bluing method and neither can exactly replicated the color or depth of color the Carbonia blue provided. Smith & Wesson still has some oldtimer craftsmen who know how to do the surface prep for high polish bluing and nickel. Ditto for Ford's. Nobody can replicate the S&W Carbonia blue, not even S&W or Turnbull because the exact formula has been lost to history. Smith doesn't even have it any longer. Turnbull's charcoal blue is similar to Smith's Carbonia blue and indeed excellent but not an exact duplicate.

The wildcard in all of this is that it is rumored that Smith & Wesson is currently using a new EPA friendly bluing method which is both different from tradition hot salts baths and, more importantly, does not play nice with some common cleaning solvents. Whether this is true or an internet enhanced myth based on a mismash of disinformation originating from Smith's admonishment not to use ammonia based solvents is unknown to me. It does, however, muddy up the water. Ford's is still using the traditional hot salts bath to my knowledge.

Both the Factory and Ford's will provide an excellent refinish. The durability of Smith's is a little bit of a question mark. Neither will match the old (and better) Carbonia blue used pre 1980.

Bruce

Last edited by BruceM; 03-26-2015 at 01:02 AM.
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Old 03-26-2015, 04:51 AM
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My brand new 586-8 is currently at Smith & Wesson to get refinished for a warranty repair. It had a noticeable scratch on the finish behind the recoil shield and a small mark on the metal under the bluing from the factory on the other side. I called them today and the lady on the phone said they're finishing up and it should ship soon.

Don't know if their paid bluing is any different than warranty rebluing, but I'll post pics of it when it gets back. Here is a before pic.

As you can see... there's really not much wrong with it at at first glance



save for this scratch. I wouldn't normally mind it, but I bought the gun new and want any scratches on the gun to be of my own mishap

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Old 03-27-2015, 08:59 PM
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How long does it take s&w to refinish the n frame revolvers? What's the cost?

I have a brand new, unfired m29-10 w/6 1/2" barrel that's in blue I'd like to get it nickeled?
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Old 03-28-2015, 10:47 PM
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A call to S&W will get you an approximate lead time. Smith's refinishing price list is available on their website under Performance Center gunsmithing.

Bruce
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Old 03-28-2015, 11:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Iggy View Post

Here is a factory re-blued Model 27.
Beautiful grips Iggy.
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Old 04-08-2015, 12:21 AM
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Can't tell if it is any shinier but they got the imperfections out.

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Old 04-08-2015, 10:52 AM
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I had a very good outcome from a factory re-blue several years ago:
S&W P.C. re-blue of my ’67 M27-2 Utah Highway Patrol
Before (detail of the condition I started with):

After:
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