I have had my model 10 6" for over a month now, really like the gun. I hate having a gun I can't completly take apart and clean, I would really like to take the side plate off and give it a good cleaning and lube. I am hesitant about taking the plate off, having something fly out and not being able to put it together. I consider myself mechanically inclined, been working as a mech. since 1973. Have built several flintlock muzzleloaders from a block of wood. But, this sideplate scares me a little. If I decide to take it off, what should I watch for? thanks, chuck

chuck,

Nothing will "fly-out".
The hammer block may drop onto your work surface but nothing will propel it but gravity. The Kuhnhausen shop manual is a good reference to have.
I believe there are some stickies on the forum that will give you an idea of the innards of your model 10.
I'm no gunsmith, but I collect older, pre-lock smiths. Using proper hollow-ground screwdivers and proper technique, I pull the sideplate from every smith I acquire and clean/lube them, as required.
AGI and or Jerry Miculek offer videos that are great guides to disassembly/reassembly with no heartburn. You can also search youtube for some fair examples of what to expect.
Do not, after removing the sideplate screws (keep those screws in order, their location is important) pry the sideplate. You strike the gripframe with a soft mallet or rubber screwdriver handle across the gripframe to vibrate the plate off.

It's easier than you think!
Mike

edit to add: once you start replacing springs, That's when the "flying-out" begins. You wil want safety glasses, then. For just pulling the plate to clean and lube, as long as you don't pull the hammer, trigger or rebound slide, (none of these will "jump" out of the frame without considerable effort to remove them) nothing gets launched.

Pull the screws, loosely tape the side plate with masking tape, smack the grip frame (grips off) with the plastic end of your screwdriver, the plate will come loose, tape will prevent it from flying

Thanks guys, here goes. chuck

This is VERY important.......

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'Nam 1968-69.DAV,VFW,NRA Inst.

I remove the screws, setting them in the orientation they are on the side plate on the bench, turn the gun with side plate down, grasp the bottom side with my left hand to catch the sideplate and safety, then gently tap the bottom side of the grip frame with a plastic mallet. It will drop loose.
One thing I've found when reassembling is to make sure the milled surfaces of the side plate are free of oil before trying to put it back on, set the hammer block in place, carefully orient the sideplate on it, tip the upper portion of the sideplate under the frame so the 'tab' on top goes under, then gently with hand pressure push down on the bottom portions of the sideplate to get it started into the frame. Do this evenly.
Once it is in by finger pressure, take a soft cloth and lay it over the sideplate and 'gently' tap the bottom areas of the side plate to fully seat it, now go ahead and put your screws in, tightening each a little more each time, including the cylinder stop screw in an even manner (without the cylinder yoke/cylinder in place. Kind of like putting the heads back on an engine block, tighten one a little then another till all are tight.
Once they all are tight, take back out the cylinder stop screw and re-install the cylinder/cylinder yoke and install again the cylinder stop screw.
By carefully cleaning the milled edges of the sideplate of oil, I've found this will minimize/eliminate 'Peening' of the are at the top curve of sideplate and frame, I believe the oil, if present, contributes to peening,(some kind of fluid dynamic?) could be wrong but it seems to work for me. Some peening may happen, but if you go slow and careful you may get lucky and avoid it.
Hope this helps
RD

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Got a Phd from Hard Knocks U

there are some really good videos on youtube useing a model 10 as the example. sure made it easy aftre i watched them

I did just as you guys said, removed screws and cyl. yoke, tapped with a plastic hammer, plate popped off, (I did notice the 2 exposed plate screw are the same) the inards were pretty dirty, hosed it out with brake clean and blew it out good, lubed it all up, it did take a bit to get the plate back on, took a little pressure to get it most of the way on, then gently tapped while putting the screws in and snugging. I assume it takes a little force? Anyway, seems everything works as it should, doesn't seem to be any binding while cocking and decocking. I am new to smith and wesson guns, been around mostly .22 revolvers and autos all my life, I really like this model 10, will probably look for one in 4" or maybe a J frame. Thanks for the help. chuck

chuck,

Way to go!
Next, you'll be doing trigger jobs and changing springs!

Mike

One thing I do is to lay the gun in my left hand (screws removed and placed in order), and lightly lay my thumb over the side plate while striking the inside edge of the grip frame with a wooden hammer handle. (What I was taught to use). Also, a recommendation that can make your life easier is to get an old carpet sample, and put it on your bench top. The smooth cut short nap works best. Anything you drop is protected, and parts will not roll around. I also recommend the Miculek video's.

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H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I have a 629-2 that I bought used-great gun, nice action and very accurate-but boy was it dirty! I have progressively cleaned it, a little more agressively each time, bad leading in the bore etc etc, but continuing to shoot it as well. One day at the range the hammer and trigger just began to "hang up" so bad that the gun wouldn't function at all. I removed the grips and stuck the spray tube of a can of brake cleaner in everywhere it would go, cocked, uncocked, trigger back, trigger forward, etc, holding the gun in different positions, and using varying angles with the spray tube. I must have shot at least a half of a large can through it, and it was transformed. I waited a while-couple weeks, shooting it in between before adding any lube, then I put in a couple of drops of LSA top and bottom. This really worked well for me. The reason I read this post was because I am thinking about changing a hammer on a 27-2, but before I take off a side plate for cleaning, I'm gonna try my brake clean first! Flapjack