I have in front of me a good condition M31. When I first saw the revolver, the crane retention screw was loose. The revolver functioned OK, albeit the normal very stiff trigger.

After removing the side plate, I polishied most surfaces lightly. Rinsed everything in a cleaner and compressed air blow dryed. Reduced power springs were installed. Functioned very well. Small dabs of TW125 in appropriate places.

Installed the side plate and discovered the trigger would function until it almost reset. The lightest of touch would reset the trigger. I examined all parts, removed all parts, fully flushed revolver and parts, and re-assembled. Same problem. Started to dis-ssemble the revolver and happened to lay the side plate on flat box. The plate is slightly bowed. With the outside up, you can lightly rock the plate. I did not try to straighten. I have very fine files so dressed some of the side, not touching the "races" for the pins.

Take the plate off, it will cycle. Remove the transfer bar, replace the plate, and the glitch goes away.

The loose screw, apparently, camoflauged the bent plate.

Past all that, I am puzzled that the transfer bar causes the glitch when the side plate is on.

I did take a .001 or so off the back/side of the transfer bar with no luck.

I am sure I can put the factory trigger reset spring back and the revolver will function. However; the idea it is still "catching" on somethimg bugs me.

Anyone?

Red,

How much lighter did you go on the rebound spring? I have gone too light on a couple of rebound springs and experienced the problem you describe, though neither was a J-frame gun. You want that trigger to follow your finger to reset, the two should stay "in contact".
Perhaps go to a spring that's middlin' twixt the original and your replacement?

Mike

I try to never go below 14 lb on the trigger return spring. Especially on a J Frame.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

Could be the slide block/rebound spring but it bothers me when it works without the hammer block. It works great with and without the plate as long as the hammer block block is not there.
I have tuned a bunch of K frames and a few J frames. My M60-10 is very smooth and reliable.
I have a Dan Wesson that was a challenge but it is close to a tunes S&W.

I ordered a new rebound spring and will install it.

How can I straighten the receiver plate?. Who ever had this before me must have pried that thing off.

We all know the plate is not hardened. I have considered using a vice with three pieces of wood. One at each end and one in the middle on the other side. Think?