I picked up a model 13-3 serial 9D98XXX. It is hard to tell if it is stainless or nickel. When I open up the cylinder it says Mod 13-3. The hammer and trigger are heat treated black. Question 1..is it a 13-3 or a 65. Everywhere I read it says the 13-3 is blue and the silver model is called a 65. Question 2 Were some models made with the hammer and trigger that way. I have not seen any pics like that. Sorry for the smudges on the gun...

If it's marked 13-3 it's nickel. The 13 came in blue or nickel and the 65 was stainless. The hammer and trigger are case colored and are correct for a 13. That's a great carry gun you have there.

Looks like it's "in the white"...



...with maybe some remnants of nickel plating.

65-3 3 inch

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65-3.jpg (65.1 KB, 108 views)

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Take your time..quickly.

it looks like it jus needs good polishing to bring the nickle back! A little hand polish with Mothers Mag or Flitz.

Will be heading to wally world and getting some and a box of 357's to try her out. Thanks for all the good info, it's good to know a little history and such. cheers from the south.

Back from wally world...That Mothers Mag did the trick. Looks brand new out of the box...thx for the tip pete950 much appreciated....

This is my Model 13-3 which I purchased Brand New in March 2012. I only fired a few shots in it. I heard that I should not fire Magnums in this revolver, as they may rupture the forcing cone. Is this true ?

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	my model 13-3.jpg (112.4 KB, 42 views)
	my model 13-3 (2).jpg (144.3 KB, 38 views)

As said, if it's a 13, it's Nickel. Albeit judging from the photos, it's been scratched up pretty good. Waxing may or may not clean that up.

Also another clear giveaway is the case hardened trigger and hammer. If it was a 65, it would have a chromed hammer and trigger.

No, it's not true.

Some folks claim that .357 Mag ammunition with a 125 grain bullet is more likely to cause problems, while other folks say this is largely a myth. I have never had an issue with my M19s, but I have not shot a huge number of 125 grain bullets through them either. I tend to shoot mildly handloaded .357s with 158 grain bullets. (Note that the M13 and the M19 are both K-Frames so this should be a valid comparison).

Some folks also say that the S&W K-Frames were meant to be mainly fired with .38 Specials and that .357s should be used only sparingly. Personally, I do not believe the average shooter will shoot enough .357s through an M13 / M19 to ever see a problem.

My advice would be to shoot up whatever .357s you have on hand. If you want to be ultra cautious, in the future just buy 158 grain .357s. I personally think that if you just want to shoot .38 Specials, buy Model 10 since they usually easier to find and cost less than an M13.

By the way, if you bought an M13-3 in 2012, it must be "As-New", since it would have been manufactured circa 1982 - 1988. (Not to split hairs or anything).

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You're shy a few manners.

Thanks a lot for the great advice. I will shoot 158 grain .357s.
I am asserting that my revolver is Brand New. I live in Cairo, Egypt. I purchased it from a local gun store. They were storing this revolver. I am the first owner of this revolver

If you can find some older Black Talon or Ranger SXT in 357 magnum (pretty much only at gun shows) or more recent HSM or Buffalo Bore 180 grain loads pick up a box and every once in a while, shoot a couple to see what the 357 magnum was meant to be.

Unfortunately, there are no gun shows where I live. Furthermore, Ammunition, particularly, .38 special & .357 Magnum are very rare. The prices are also incredibly high. Luckily, I managed to create a decent supply of .38 specials, but my supply of .357s is low though. I am searching all around for ammo and I take what I find. I hope things get better and the government would allow importing ammo soon.