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S&W Revolvers: 1961 to 1980 3-Screw PINNED Barrel SWING-OUT Cylinder Hand Ejectors WITH Model Numbers


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Old 12-15-2011, 09:28 PM
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Default Just a 'little' rough around the edges

Picked this up from a local guy. It's a 66 no dash 4" that is a very typical LEO type gun. Carried a L-O-T- and almost never fired, I don't think I have ever seen so many tiny scratches. Best of all it has no LEO markings.
I think I will do a 'Mothers Mag Wheel' polish on this and use it for house/truck/range gun. $400 plus hard case.

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Old 12-15-2011, 09:38 PM
C Islander C Islander is offline
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Nice score!
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:01 AM
TACC1 TACC1 is offline
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That IS a ton of scratches. Does that come from carrying with keys and/or loose change? Glad you got it, and I'd like to see the "after" pics
when you get done. TACC1
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Old 12-16-2011, 12:51 AM
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I'd take some 1600 grit wet paper and some WD-40 to that and follow up with 2000...

Then polish it with the Mothers. You wont believe the difference.

Good score !
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Old 12-16-2011, 01:42 AM
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I'm not an expert, but I predict that will polish out fine.
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Old 12-16-2011, 09:53 AM
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Very nice! Congrats! Nice price on a P&R 66 too!

I bet she will clean up nicely. Regards 18DAI
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Old 12-16-2011, 10:01 AM
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I have a few like that, I just leave them as is and use them as utility guns.

My 64-3 and 67-1 come to mind.
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:45 AM
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Very good price.

I doubt the small scratches would bother me much.
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Old 12-17-2011, 01:41 PM
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Default Buff and shoot

Nice score. My LGS gets a lot of well used cop Model 66s, and they sell them for about the same price. The owner usually puts them on his buffing wheel with some jeweler's rouge and that stainless steel cleans up very nicely. Give it a shot and you'll be amazed.
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldafsp View Post
I'd take some 1600 grit wet paper and some WD-40 to that and follow up with 2000...

Then polish it with the Mothers. You wont believe the difference.

Good score !
Where do you get paper with that fine of grit ?
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Old 12-17-2011, 03:27 PM
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You should be able to find Wet/Dry sandpaper or polishing paper up to 2500 grit Silicon Carbide at most automotive paint supply companies without much trouble.

Class III
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:15 PM
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Yep, they maybe don't all carry it, but in a larger city a few phone calls will turn some up. Buy more than you need, it seems to clog up fast.

And another trick is to find either a small window or just a piece of glass. Put in on your workbench, then use some rubber cement to glue down the fine sandpaper. It makes a perfectly flat abrasive surface. The rubber cement will let go if you wear out the sand paper. You can then glue some new stuff down.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1 old 0311 View Post
Picked this up from a local guy. It's a 66 no dash 4" that is a very typical LEO type gun. Carried a L-O-T- and almost never fired, I don't think I have ever seen so many tiny scratches. Best of all it has no LEO markings.
I think I will do a 'Mothers Mag Wheel' polish on this and use it for house/truck/range gun. $400 plus hard case.

I like it the way it is - history and character. I understand making a project of it, too, especially if the provenance is not personal.
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Old 12-17-2011, 05:53 PM
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I believe you can get that grade of sandpaper from auto supply stores or auto supply paint stores.
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:19 PM
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She just needs a bit of a "fluff and buff".

Posted this a while back:

First: NEVER use a Dremel or any other powered tool!

This revolver was the worst one I have ever polished. Usually, I can get by with Mother's Mag Polish on a micro-fiber rag and buff to the desired shine. Occasionally, I have had to resort to "sandpaper" (actually the black wet/dry automotive stuff) as coarse as 320 to smooth deep scratches or other boo-boos. Grades I usually have on hand are 320, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, and 2000.
With this stuff, I cut 1" x 3" strips and fold them in thirds. Never use any coarser grit than necessary.
I'll strip the gun, and then reinstall the sideplate using all flat head screws. Usually start working it with 1000 grit. Sand evenly until all the bad stuff disappears into an evenly scratched surface. If necessary, go to a coarser grit in dinged areas like the bottom of the trigger guard, then work back up through the grades.
On the flat areas, like the sideplate and frame sides, I wrap the paper around a bit of 1/4" thick wood to serve as a tiny sanding block.
I started out "wet" sanding using WD40 as a lube. After a while, I just went dry with equal results. The sandpaper will wear out quickly, so keep turning and replace it often.
When you think it's "good enough" start out with the next finest (1200) grade and repeat the process. Don't get greedy. You must remove EVERY 1000 scratch with the 1200 before going to the next finer grade. If you cheat, it will be obvious and you will need to go back a step and repeat.
Continue this process 1000-1200-1500-2000 until you're satisfied.
If you have polished well, it will look pretty good after the 2000 polish.
Now is where the fun begins. Start in with Mothers on a micro-fiber cloth. Rub, rub, rub. Then rub some more. Repeat as necessary.
You WILL see spots where you will need to back up a grade or two and work up again.
This is a Zen sort of thing. I actually enjoy it and find the work relaxing. The longer you polish, the better it will shine.
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Old 12-18-2011, 11:39 AM
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my theory on these things is I am going to put more scratches/wear on it anyway so I don't bother refinishing or polishing up any used gun. I am also a fan of PD markings- I like the history that relates to them-I'd rather have a gun with a pd mark than without.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:03 PM
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If that is the worst of it, you will be fine. Stainless is very easy to restore and polish.
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Old 12-18-2011, 12:05 PM
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Just to speed things up a bit I would use some ScotchBrite prior to the polish. It will make short work of the scratches. Green or gray. Nice catch, by the way.
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