I recently purchased a factory nickeled 10-5 from the early 1970's.
It's all original and has the factory "N" markings in the expected places. It even came with the original box, cleaning rod/bore brush, and paperwork.
I have a few questions with regards to cleaning it. It has been fired a little bit and it came to me with powder burn rings on the cylinder...….and it also has a decent amount of dried grease (or other?) in places.
While I know that a 10-5 isn't highly desirable amongst hardcore collectors due to sheer numbers produced I would like to safely remove the carbon burn rings and the dried grease and possibly polish the finish if that isn't considered too taboo for an in-the-box almost 50 year old item.
Is something like CLP or Hoppes safe for a nickeled gun as far as routine cleaning? Also would using a micro-abrasive such as Flitz or Brownell's bore compound be considered too drastic with regards to polishing the nickel finish?
Do collectors polish the nickel finish as part of routine maintenance? Or is it best to simply clean the gun as good as possible with a simple light machine oil such as 3-in-1 oil......or something along those lines?
Just curious as I would hate to ruin the finish with cleaners not made for nickel finishes or in a manner that collectors would feel was "too over the top" nice.
Sorry to sound like such a noob, but it's my first nickeled revolver.
Hoppe's #9 is a fine cleaner and won't harm the nickel finish in any way unless you soak the gun or there are breaks or flaking in the finish. After cleaning, use a soft cloth very lightly oiled with any good gun oil, 3 in 1, etc. to wipe down the gun.
As for cylinder burns, no need to clean these to bare metal as they will burn again next time the gun is fired. You need no abrasives, special cleaners, waxes, etc.
There's a lot of controversy on this subject and some repeat erroneous information they've read but have had no long-term experience with regarding the cleaning of nickel guns. I've been using the methods described on nickel S&W revolvers for well over forty years without problem or deterioration of finish. I shoot and clean such guns on a regular basis. None are safe goddesses.
I have owned one nickel gun in my life and I used Hoppe's and a toothbrush, It is just a personal thing, but I prefer blue or factory polished stainless, like the Colt bright stainless finish
__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son
Last edited by Narragansett; 11-09-2019 at 07:36 PM.
Hi, tenntex32. I too recently picked up a decent factory nickel 2" 10-5.
It had become a bit dull overall with a bit of 'yellowing' (for lack of better words)on the back of the frame between the stocks. I cleaned with normal solvents (#9, Kroil, etc.) with minimal success. Next was a light rub with Flitz, and the results pleased me quite a bit. In my experience, you can tread lightly with Flitz without negative results. As with most things, 'overdoing' can have negative results.
My only regret is that I do not have any 'before' pictures.
I hope your results are similar.
Please post some pictures!
Here are a few of mine.
and at home in the box with a set of stag stocks to dress it up.
Last edited by JH1951; 11-09-2019 at 08:14 PM.
Reason: addition
For the actual nickel finish I use Flitz with a micro fiber cloth, bore and cylinder Hoppe's is fine.
Here's a model 19 I got recently that I brightened up with Flitz.
Hi, tenntex32. I too recently picked up a decent factory nickel 2" 10-5.
It had become a bit dull overall with a bit of 'yellowing' (for lack of better words)on the back of the frame between the stocks. I cleaned with normal solvents (#9, Kroil, etc.) with minimal success. Next was a light rub with Flitz, and the results pleased me quite a bit. In my experience, you can tread lightly with Flitz without negative results. As with most things, 'overdoing' can have negative results.
My only regret is that I do not have any 'before' pictures.
I hope your results are similar.
Please post some pictures!
Here are a few of mine.
and at home in the box with a set of stag stocks to dress it up.
Nice looking 10-5's. As I said though, I am more of a blue guy, although I like the 10-5. I have ANIB blued #D138
__________________
Pete
I ain't no fortunate son
Last edited by Narragansett; 11-09-2019 at 08:25 PM.
A number of good methods and polishes have been mentioned. I also have a number of nickel revolvers to include a 10-5, 29-2, and a triple lock. I have used Flitz, Mothers Mag Polish, and even less aggressive Mothers Billet Polish with good results. There is another method I have used on nickel or stainless steel only (do not use of blued) for powder burns which simply takes less elbow grease. It is naval jelly. I apply a liberal amount with a q-tip and let it set a few minutes and then remove with a clean cotton cloth or miracle cloth.
Once you have the nickel finish to where you want it apply a coat of Renaissance Micro-Crystalline Wax Polish. It will help protect the highly polished finish.
That Model 10-5 shows honest wear and aging, but does not look abused. To restore the nickel finish, I'd use Flitz, a very soft cloth, and gentle pressure to even out the scratches and lighten the oxidation. Once polished, I'd coat it with Renaissance Wax to protect the nickel from further oxidation.
I would suggest caution with Hoppes #9. From what I've read, it can react with the copper that lies under the nickel, resulting in peeling etc. See Google for horror stories.
Myself, satin nickel Commander that has been cleaned with only Hoppes #9 and Remoil since the 1970's. At times there have been greenish stains on the cloth it is wrapped in, and occasionally even on the gun itself. Since becoming aware of the Hoppes issue, while I still use it, I mostly use it heavily on just the barrel and lightly on other soiled areas, I am careful to dry it off well, and wet the surfaces thoroughly with Remoil before putting away (thus diluting away any remaining Hoppes).
If I was starting from scratch, I'd probably use something else, but haven't done the research among modern options.
Birchwood Casey lead off cloth does well. Package say it works on nickel. I use it to get that last bit of crud cleaned off. I use it sparingly and it works well. Just don't get heavy handed.
Clean your nickeled 10-5 just as you would a blued one. It doesn't need any special treatment. Bright nickel does tend to pick up a jillion tiny scratches over time, so when it needs spiffing up in that regard Flitz or a similar micro-abrasive, used gently, can make it look sharp again.
For fogging or cloudy nickel or body sweat dulling a light application of simi chrome polish on a soft rag will do. Try it on stainless too. With blue use the used simi polish lightly.
I use the Birchwood Casey 31002 Lead Remover and Polishing Cloth. Works like magic on lead & powder stains on my revolvers, both blued & nickel plated! I highly recommend them! And, let me add that I NEVER use Flitz or any other abrasive on a nickel plated gun.
Cleaning your Nickeled Revolver with Hoppes should be fine. Hoppes is only bad on guns such as Colts and others that were Copper plated prior to being Nickel plated which S&W's were not.
If you want to polish it afterwards, you can use Flitz on an old cotton Tee shirt and proceed slowly. Do NOT use a Dremel, buffing wheel or anything electrically driven! My advise would be to proceed slowly, check progress often and do not try and make your Nickeled Revolver a mirror finish! If all you want to do is shine it up a little and remove some of the finer scratches, than the Flitz will accomplish that - but don't go too far or you will have a "pimp finished gun".
I'd also suggest disassembly of the gun prior to polishing so you do not wind up with polish inside the mechanism or Cylinder. If you are not familiar with disassembly / reassembly, either find someone who is familiar, bring it to a LGS or learn how to do it - it's not all that difficult.
I guess you’re talking about the powder spots in front of the cylinder right ?
If so, I read that you don’t have to clean them. I bet you have already notice that the metal on this part of the cylinder isn’t smooth and for what I have read, polishing the front of the cylinder could increase the gap between the barrel and the cylinder little by little. I have no experience about that though, but to be honest I don’t want to try...
By the way, I noticed that the powder rings were less noticeable after many cleaning with a powder and lead remover on my guns.
I can’t help you about how to clean the nickel. I just put some oil on my hammerless and that’s all
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French Pollywog
Last edited by Lady Smith; 11-11-2019 at 05:28 PM.
Factory nickel cleaning
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