At the range with my 38 Model 15-3, fire 5 good, fire 5 good, fire 5 and last one doesn't go bang. Open cylinder and see a very light hit on primer. Spin it around to fire again, close cylinder and can't pull the trigger or hammer or get the cylinder release to move.

My 38 is now a rock. Take it home, remove screws, pop it with a rubber hammer and the hammer block flies off by itself. So I work the gun with the hammer block laying on the side and everything works fine. Put the hammer block back, close it up and it works fine.

Any clue what might have happened?

At this point it's difficult to tell.

I am guessing that you encountered a hard primer or one that backed out of the case during firing the other rounds that were loaded.

It does happen once in awhile and I have seen it more with reloads than factory ammo.

Does your 15 have the trigger stop installed? If so, is the retaining screw tight?

Hope some of this is helpful.

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Take your time..quickly.

1st thing is to check and see if the ejector rod is tight, or have you done that?

Yes, it has the trigger stop. I did not check it for being tight.

Ejector rod, I did check it. But turned it wrong way first. So I'm not sure if it was loose or not. I did have that problem with one of my S&W last year. Can't remember if it was this one or not.

I'll have to pay closer attention next time. And I'm off to check the primer on the non-fired round.

Primers look ok to me.

I did find the trigger stop was not tight, but if I tighten it all the way it does not function properly. Drops and doesn't lock back. So I backed it off until it worked properly. But I do think it was loose.

I don't think it was the ejector rod being loose because I didn't tinker with the ejector rod until after it started working again. I want to blame the hammer block since it seems if it isn't in position I get the same results when it locked up.

Thanks for the help. I now know what a trigger stop is, which I didn't know before.

Check the main spring tension screw also. If it's backed out or misadjusted, you may get light strikes. Also cause the action to feel messed up.

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Memory of Randy Freas-Rimfired

Your entirely welcome.

The overtravel stop was usually removed for law enforcement use on these. Smith used to include a tag stating that the trigger stop had been removed for LE use. Somewhere around I have a couple of those cards.

My nickle 15-3 has it installed, but my blue 15-3 was removed at the factory.

Enjoy yours, they are great revolvers.

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Take your time..quickly.

Went to the range and it locked up again. It is the ejector rod backing out. This time I could still fire the gun, just not open it up. I spun the rod enough to get it back open.

Is the answer Lock-tite? Or something else?

Johnny,

I have a 3" 38 model 60 that is prone to the ejector rod working loose. Problem solved with purple loc-tite. You can also use the blue loc-tite, but never use the red stuff!

Mike

Thanks for the help. Now to get some Lock-tite, can't find mine anywhere.

The "Blue" will do!

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RIP Shipmate

Well of course you can't. If you didn't need it, a half dozen bottles would be on your desk right now.

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John 3:16 .

If i were you i would contact S&W and tell them whats going on. They will probably tell you to send it in for evaluation & and repair if need be. I had a 4506 with a sight problem and the guy i talked to sent me a shipping label via E-Mail pre paid and they repaired it ,No Cost and shipped it back to me No Cost in two weeks. Can not go wrong there. Now that is what i call Service.