Forum,
I am trying to build to build an incredibly accurate .32 S&W revolver for the International 25M Centerfire Match. I want to start with a K Frame, 5.5"-6" Custom Barrel, Bowen .32 Cylinder that will shoot only 100 grain wadcutters. Very nice adjustable rear sight. Aftermarket Grips.
What K Frame model should I start with? I want as short of a cylinder length as possible, Does that rule out .357s? Any reason that I should not use a stainless version? Is it a big deal to add adjustable sights to a fixed sight version? What about the alloy frame models 12 and 13? Less weight would be great.
Speaking to Randall Fung the grip maker, a round butt would be preferable to get more room in the measuring box. Please no responses like "just go with a .38 Special". Thanks

Based on the questions you're asking, can I assume you're planning to have someone else do the work? If that is the case, these are really questions better answered by your gunsmith, but I'll take a crack at some of them.

Using a custom cylinder and barrel, you can start with any frame you care to, and have the cylinder be whatever length it needs to be. the barrel would simply protrude further into the cylinder window than normal.

Assuming you require the longest sight picture possible (in order to be competitive) you wouldn't be using normal target sights anyways, but rather have sights cantilevered somehow over the grips to be at the back of the measuring box. The front sights will be requisitely high.

The alloy frame should pose no problem in the short term, but will likely save you little in the way of fatigue, as with a build like this, most of the weight will be in the barrel and grips. I think I would stick with a steel frame for durability, not that the 32 WC has a lot of power, but anytime you shoot a half a million of anything, there's bound to be some stress produced.

I hope the plan for this doesn't include cost savings, as that seems rather unlikely compared to buying an already vetted design.

Good luck!

Since you state a "K" frame, you could use any original gun, they are all the same size, only difference is Sq butt or Rd butt. I would agree with Tony M and stick with a steel frame. Since you will have to get the cylinder bored out and a custom barrel, A Mod. 17 would probably make the most sense as that is where you will need to start to have a cylinder created.

__________________
H Richard
SWCA1967 SWHF244

I love the idea, but see a lot of problems. Starting with a .22 model 17/18 means relocating the firing pin aperture; starting with a .38 model 14/15 means sleeving the cylinder. Extending the rear sight may require an extension to the side of the hammer for rapid single action cocking, which would adversely affect the double action. Achieving pistol accuracy with a revolver is difficult but some, particularly Freedom Arms, have come very close. Getting exactly the same trigger pull on every chamber is hard, and the cylinder gap has to be tight for accuracy yet large enough to keep the cylinder from binding as lead accumulates.
The bottom line is can you make a revolver as accurate as a .32 Walther GSP pistol? I believe Manurhin made a .32 WC revolver. How did it stack up?

Bob