Nickel M-38 Solvent Data Needed

[Texas Star]

Two things for which I have scant admiration are nickel plating and aluminum gun frames. I have never owned a nickled gun, and won't. Apart from the social image, I worry about cleaning solvents or atmospheric conditions affecting the finish.

But my daughter and her husband just inherited a M-38 Bodyguard with a nickel finish. She sent me photos, inc. one of the right side of the barrel with the Airweight marking, so I know that it is a M-38, not a steel frame. I do not know the serial no., but that probably won't matter. The cylinder release is the later style, not the old flat one, so it isn't terribly old. Probably dates from the 1970's or later.

What they need to know is which solvents or oils are safe for use on a nickled gun. I've read that Hoppe's No. 9 or the Outer's equivalent can damage nickel finishes.

Do those of you who do favor this flashy finish have any thoughts on what's safe? Will Break-Free CLP work okay?

Thanks for your help. They know very little about guns, and she's blonde. (But an honors graduate with a Master's degree from a major university.) I can answer any questions they have but this one, not having ever owned a nickeled firearm.

[DAinTX]

I clean the bore with CLP and wipe down the exterior with a silicone cloth. That's it. Nickel is decent protection from corrosion so it doesn't need a lot of oil on it. Just keep it clean and a silicone rag works fine for that. I don't use Hoppes or any other similar strong solvent. My understanding is most nickeled guns (not sure about S&W) have a copper underlayer that solvents like Hoppes will attack if there is any minute break in the finish. I figure: why chance it even if that's not the case with S&W?...since CLP works just fine for me.

[JCS&W]

I use Prolix. Safe for nickel finishes. Works very well for me. I really do not find the nickel finish to be any harder to take care of than a blued finish, but hey that is just me.

[Texas Star]

Originally Posted by JCS&W

I use Prolix. Safe for nickel finishes. Works very well for me. I really do not find the nickel finish to be any harder to take care of than a blued finish, but hey that is just me.

Never heard of Prolix. What is it and how easy is it to find?

Would Wal-Mart or Academy Sports have silicone cloths? There isn't a real gun store near them.

[wyo-man]

Most silicone cloths are not for nickel plated firearms.
Prolix can be purchased directly from PrOlix Lubricants Home Page which is what I did since no local stores carry it......... (small town Wyoming).

wyo-man

[DAinTX]

Silicone cloths are fine for nickel. Just google 'nickel and silicone cloths' and see what many gun owners say. I'm used them on nickeled guns for at least 40 years with zero issues. Now what can happen to the typical gun owner with several guns is that the cloth gets contaminated with other solvents and cleaners and that potentially causes problems. Also, there are gun cloths that are specifically for removing lead...don't use those either. They'll damage both nickel and bluing. But in your daughter's case most of this is probably a non-issue for now. And yes, Walmart and Academy have silicone cloths. And yes, Prolix is also very good stuff. Not any better than CLP for cleaning the bore, IMO, and harder to find, but it works fine too.

[Texas Star]

Originally Posted by DAinTX

Silicone cloths are fine for nickel. Just google 'nickel and silicone cloths' and see what many gun owners say. I'm used them on nickeled guns for at least 40 years with zero issues. Now what can happen to the typical gun owner with several guns is that the cloth gets contamininated with other solvents and cleaners and that potentially causes problems. Also, there are gun cloths that are specifically for removing lead...don't use those either. They'll damage both nickel and bluing. But in your daughter's case most of this is probably a non-issue for now. And yes, Walmart and Academy have silicone cloths. And yes, Prolix is also very good stuff. Not any better than CLP for cleaning the bore, IMO, and harder to find, but it works fine too.

Thanks. And I can easily get CLP, but not Prolix.

I'll warn them about contamnating the silicone cloth with oil or solvent from two other (blued steel) guns they received in the inheritance. (Don't get excited: one is a Sear's version of a lever-action .30-30 and the other, some sort of .22 rifle. I have no pics yet and haven't seen it. I told them to read the barrel and see if it at least reveals the manufacturer. I am pretty sure that it is not a Kimber Super America or a Winchester M-52 sporter...)