Hi y'all. I have a Model 66 on layway at a local pawnshop, and I thought I'd ask a couple questions before I plunk down the rest of the cash.

This isn't my first revolver (though it will be my first Smith), so I knew to check cylinder lockup and endshake, and those seem fine. I didn't have a feeler gauge with me, but there was just the smallest sliver of light visible between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone, and the cylinder only moved maybe a millimeter laterally when the hammer was back.

It does seem to have a lot of sideways wiggle, though, which I don't know if I should be concerned about. My wheelgun experience is all with Rugers, which lock up at the crane/yoke, not the front of the ejector. There is no straight side-to-side play to the cylinder, ie the bolt locks up fine, but there is some rotational sideways wiggle where the ejector rod can be pushed away from the barrel shroud. It's more of a twisting motion, like it's all locked up at the rear, but the front catch isn't holding it in place.

So my question is thus: is this something to worry about? It seems like the front latch is either worn or has a spring that's gasping its last. Coming from the Ruger world, I have no experience with an ejector-rod latch, so I come to you for wisdom.

In addition to checking for proper movement of the front locking lug and spring . . . if the yoke closes tight against the frame but the front locking lug still doesn't engage . . . check for a bent ejector rod.

Russ

Be careful with this one. Some folks who fancy they are gunsmiths will 'monkey' with the innards of their revolvers, and will sell them without apprising the dealer/seller of their 'mods.' Many of these mods are questionable; spring-cutting is the least of them. I'm sure folks are tired of me posting this caveat, but I also am tired of having to pay for correcting the 'creativity' of non-'smiths. From what you describe, perhaps some 'planet-wrecker' handloads were put through it. I would pass this one up.

I have found that most (not all) stainless steel S&W revolvers do not have the precision fit of their carbon steel counterparts. Call me crazy, but my collection of both is extensive enough to make a reasonable comparison. None of these guns are later models. One of the most obvious is the difference between my 681 and 581 and my 586 and 686. These are all no dash models. The yokes on the blue/nickel guns fits much tighter to the frame and have virtually no lateral movement. There is also a difference between the my 19's and 66's, but it's not as not as apparent. These are also early models. All of these guns were bought used. Some have been shot, but none have been abused. I have learned to accept them for what they are and enjoy them. That being said, I don't know what "rotational sideways wiggle" is, but you should have a competent gunsmith check it out. Also, there is always a "sliver of light" between the front of the cylinder and the forcing cone. If it wasn't there, the revolver would not function properly. You mention you checked for endshake. That is where you should be using a feeler gauge to check for it. My two cents--walk away from this gun. Even though there may be nothing wrong with it, or it is has small problems that can be fixed, why buy something that has possible problems, and will cost you more money. Another one always comes along. Good luck.

The spring-loaded pin in the front locking lug should have almost exactly the same diameter as the hole in the end of the ejector rod. It is hard to reduce the diameter of the pin, but if the rod end is sort of wallowed out, you will get the symptom you describe. My Brazlian came with a really sloppy yoke, and the ejector rod end was the problem. The gun was much tighter once I installed a new one.

On the gun you are looking at, look closely at the the point where the front locking pin goes into the ejector rod. With the yoke closed, see if there is motion there when you nudge the cylinder and crane to their sideways limit. This may be a little difficult because of the ejector shroud. If it seems pretty tight, then the looseness is at the point where the ejector rod goes into the cylinder, which is to my mind extremely worrisome.

If you are in love with this particular gun, figure out what is needed to tighten it up before you make the clean-up payment. If you are not in love with it and would be willing to have a different specimen of the same thing, it's probably wise to back away from this one. Trust your instincts. If you have to talk yourself into proceeding with the purchase, your brain is trying to tell you something important.

A millimeter of rotational play is more than you think it is, but even half a millimeter can be too much depending on how well timed the gun is in the first place.

__________________
David Wilson

Figured I'd follow up even though that was two years ago.
Bought it, shot it, wasn't impressed with the accuracy, didn't love it enough to pay a 'smith to fix it, sold it for more than I paid for it.

Hopefully with full disclosure...

Yessir. Sold it to a former police officer who was planning to take it to a 'smith regardless of condition, so I gave him the rundown of what I'd found.

I originally posted here. VERY kind for you to follow up after 2 years! Many thanks.

Kaaskop49
Shield #5103